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RESTO 1995 XP800 Resto Project: Sugar and Spice

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Dan, the parts came out very nice! Curious, what powder coating unit do you use? I never considered power coating but the results and durability have me thinking for the next project.


I have an Eastwood unit, the cheap one not even the dual voltage unit. I bought it years ago to cower a bunch of my old Honda 3 wheeler parts. It works well. I get my powder from Columbia Coatings. The worst part is you have to bead blast the parts bare first, then clean, treat, outgas, powder, enjoy! The biggest positives are the powder is dirt cheap, clean up is simple, and it's not solvent based and durable. Liquid paint is expensive, messy and has to dry/cure. I literally can remove a part from the oven, let it cool and install. With paint I could never do that.

This is what I have, eventually I wold like to upgrade to a pro type gun and build a bigger oven so I could do motorcycle frames and such. I'll try to post some pics of some of the stuff I've done.

http://www.eastwood.com/powder-gun-promo-kit.html

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Dan, the parts came out very nice! Curious, what powder coating unit do you use? I never considered power coating but the results and durability have me thinking for the next project.

A cheaper easier method......I've been impressed with appliance enamel. If you don't happen to have a PC close by, or want the start up expense of doing it yourself. There's one in Cary I hear is pretty good, so you have one close by-ish depending on what part of Cary you live in.
 
Good info, thanks guys. May look at the appliance enamel that Suke mentions. Suke where do you ride? Jordan?
 
I live like less than 2 miles from Harris lake boat ramp......so that's theoretically where I ride. Although I've been terrible about getting out this year. I need to get out after work. Been fighting a hesitation issue and really don't want to get out there on a Saturday and piss people off.
 
A cheaper easier method......I've been impressed with appliance enamel. If you don't happen to have a PC close by, or want the start up expense of doing it yourself. There's one in Cary I hear is pretty good, so you have one close by-ish depending on what part of Cary you live in.

I agree that paint would have been easier also for future touch-ups too, but...........I'm trying to up my game and push the envelope on this build and paint just wasn't going to do it. I'm also rethinking the engine paint I've been using for this build.
 
Absolutely, but you have the skills and equipment. For non skilled people like me appliance paint is where it's at. Hah!
 
Yes, factory graphics are going back on. I secured NOS decals and hand traced (with a little help from Falksland) the rear to get the sizing 100% for Mike to perfect the graphics for the 95 XP800's and the coloring will be dead on and the sizing too. Mpower's ski was very inspirational for my ski and a supurb resto.


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Dan - just got back from London. Got home and saw that wifey didnt ship the tracings out. Very sorry, hope I didnt hold your project up... They'll be in the mail Monday.

Cheers,

Ben
 
Engine time. I've been putting it off long enough so here goes! The abbreviated build process.

All new OEM bearings and rebuilt RV shaft with bearings seals and o-ring.

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Rebuilt OEM crank and rebuilt CB shaft with new bearings, seals were still minty fresh. Had to convert over to the later 96+ CB shaft due to the crank having the later CB gear and different PTO thread pitch.

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Threebond 1211 to seal up the cases.

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OEM first over pistons with new OEM pins and wrist pin bearings. All greased up!
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Checked the squish dry, original base gasket was a 4 holer, squish was tightened up with a 3 holer and set to .0535" which is just under the midpoint of tolerance. As you can see I put a SKIM coat of Threebond on the base gasket just to fill any little imperfections in the cases and avoid any air leaks once I pressure test it.


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A little loctite in the o-ring groove and paste the cylinder o-ring in it. All new OEM seal kit used for the entire engine.

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New crank seal and lubed to protect on start up.

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Loctite 242 on the crank snout for the flywheel.

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All assembled, would have had the mag cover on but I thought I had a new oil pump drive in inventory--WRONG

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Looks nice and pretty up in there!!!!!!!!!!!
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Timing looked two teeth off to me, what am I missing?

It's the level of clean that gets me. I just can't get that "newness" out of my used cases. I'll keep trying but dang that looks good....almost priceless!
 
Timing looked two teeth off to me, what am I missing?

It's the level of clean that gets me. I just can't get that "newness" out of my used cases. I'll keep trying but dang that looks good....almost priceless!

How's this? It was hard to see the line that's for sure.


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That level of clean....sometimes they are clean, others require work to get them there. These required work. I cleaned them in my parts washer that has Kero in it. I used every brush in my possession to get the old TC-W3 off the cases that was stuck like dog crap on your shoe. Then after that it was a wire bristle brush and 3 cans of brake clean, then some starting fluid, then some lacquer thinner. That was just for the inside. Then the bead blaster, then some 0000 steel wool on the bearing journals, then tapped every hole. Then those sprayed out with brake clean. Then hand washed with plenty of soap and a brush in the kitchen sink. I probably have 6+ hours just in case prep. What is driving me nuts is the RV surface, it's just stained so bad I assume for the oil. It looks like an old snowmobile engine that has sat out and oxidized. It's super smooth but just has black staining in the pores of the aluminum.
 
The typical snapped screw that hold the beeper mount on. I see all the pics posted of the stock necks with A/M bars on with a snapped screw in there. so I just filed the screw almost flush, then found a piece of 1/8 NPT brass pipe and put a transfer punch down the center to keep me centered on the screw. The kept drilling up until the finish size ,1/4" for a 6mm helicoil. Guess I never got a pic of the heads filed down, must have missed that, so these start just after it's all drilled. All fixed and better than new!



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Got the ride plate installed after I powder coated it. Coated it up with the Permatex Ultra black RTV. Sealed all the edge seams as well. New neoprene seal, VTS housing is mounted and new boot and updated clamps all on and ready to go. Installed the pump spacer and put an old pump on just to seal it up. It has JUST the correct amount of ooze from around the spacer (last pic)


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Installed all new OEM tubing for the bailer lines and cylinder drain line. Replaced the missing silicone over the screws for the ride plate mounting points. Also another 95XP800 difference is the water box mount. If you look close enough down next to the bailer tube on the right you will see one rivet on the bracket, the 96+ has 2 rivets there. Mine was snapped when I disassembled it, guess Seadoo figured that out quickly.


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You gonna ride this one THIS YEAR Dan??? Sure looks like it!!! Oh man is that thing pretty and clean... I almost would hate to get it dirty!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Must have had some rainy days to give you some time to get back at it. We have had a ton of rain the past few weeks, been turning wrenches on these things more then riding them.

Is that red threadlocker loctite or loctite 518 on the O ring groove.

Looking sweet, I love the engine shots.
 
Must have had some rainy days to give you some time to get back at it. We have had a ton of rain the past few weeks, been turning wrenches on these things more then riding them.

Is that red threadlocker loctite or loctite 518 on the O ring groove.

Looking sweet, I love the engine shots.

We haven't had much rain all season, were getting a passing shower right now. Other than that the weather has been cold, mid 80's. This weekend mid to high 70's. It's been autumn like here and it's starting to drive me batty.

Actually, the smell of a title has me working again. I hit a snag with the fish and boat commission but got that sorted out and SHOULD have papers in a few weeks. So once the registration numbers arrive...................I hope to be close to finished.

That is 518, the manual calls for 515 in the grooves although it's not shown anywhere but they call out for it so I do it.
(1996 Seadoo Manual page 040-02-13 at the very top of the page)
 
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