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thinking about a new truck - recommendations?

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Hey Jake,

I've got some good news, I just talked to Pa and he said don't get a new truck, you can have his.

Lou
 

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They stopped using the 5.9 in 2007. (He's looking for a NEW truck) AND... the only one of the ISB engines that was truly a "Million mile motor" was the pre- VP engines. (99 and earlier??)

As far as the manual being for reliability.... that's also questionable. Depending on how you drive... you will still be changing a clutch around the 100K mi mark. AND... if you suck on a clutch... you could burn it out MUCH sooner. Not to mention, until they put they large shaft NV5600 in the 2500... it wasn't a very strong gearbox.


By no means am I saying that Cummins 2500 was a bad truck. (I had one) It was a very strong truck, but it wasn't bullet proof, as you are trying to suggest.

As I final note... I owned ONLY manual shift transmissions for the first 23~25 years of my driving life. But... an auto trans is nice to have after a hard day, and you just want to go home. Also... reflecting on the NEW trucks.... If the manual box was much more reliable/stronger... how come they had to be turned down with a manual, on the new trucks? (The manual gets 350 hp/ 660 Tq, and the Auto gets 370 hp / 800 tq)


Regardless... as I said... Bigjake is looking for a new truck, so the 5.9 is a moot point, since he could only get a 6.7. (But I don't think he wants a 3/4 ton)


Your right. Good luck!
 
Jake,

That picture kinda brought a tear to my eye. You was drivin, Pa, Granny and Sis.

Lou
 
Jake,

That picture kinda brought a tear to my eye. You was drivin, Pa, Granny and Sis.

Lou

I still member that day Lou. We was on our way ta pick ya'll up from that there big unnivursity where ya dun did all that book lernin.
 
I'm in a similar boat, but I don't need a full size. I need something that's going to last 200k+ and 10+ years. So for me Honda/Toyota were really the only options. I've all but decided on tracking down a used Honda Ridgeline. I'll never need more than the 5k towing capacity with 2 skis and my parents boat. Tundra would be nice, but you're talking STUPID money just like the american full size trucks.
 
I picked up a 2013 ram and I love it. The mds is pretty nice. Gets 28mpg cruising back roads At 55 mph. It's flat here though...

The 5.7 is plenty powerful. Love being able to shoot out into traffic with the skis and not have to worry.

I've had fords the last 15 years. The dodge was a better deal on the sticker.
 
Seems a lot of people have their personal preference with dodge, ford or GM. I stick to GM because my dad was retired from them and i still get the family price and nobody can beat the prices. The dodges are really nice, the inside is as roomy as my living room. I agree on Tony with buying it new though. The deals are too good to compare to buying used honestly. I would lean more towards a diesel though. My next truck will be a diesel for sure. My last 2 GM vehicles both have had the 5.3L. The Avalanche i had before got about 12-14 MPG normally and 11 towing. When I got the new Tahoe, the window sticker said 17 city and 20 hwy. It also has the active fuel management that cuts off 4 cylinders. So i was excited thikning i would get decent mileage. WRONG. I get 14 normally and 10 towing. I do have the heavy duty towing package with the lower rear end, so im sure that hurt it a bit, but the mileage is awful. I have a lot of friends with chevy duramaxes and also ford super dutys and all of them get 20-25 normally and even 18-20 towing. So next time i think i will choose diesel.
 
OK guys, I'm kind of frustrated trying to find a truck with the options I want so need some input.
I thought I had found the truck I wanted. After changing my mind 3 times on color, I decided I wanted Mineral Gray Metallic (5.7L Ram 1500 Quad Cab). Then I decided it would be real nice to have a backup camera for hooking up to the trailer. Well, that was the only option the truck I found didn't have. But an aftermarket camera can be added for like $575 that works with the rearview mirror somehow.

So the dealership did a search on trucks with a backup camera. Found 2, both Black, not Gray. Neither had a bed liner, one didn't have a hitch and the other didn't have the side steps. It's alot cheaper to have the dealer add a hitch than to add the sidesteps. They said to add a bedliner was like $700 which sounded ridiculous to me, especially since I was at the Chevy dealer parts dept last week and the guy in front of me was buying a bedliner for $199.

So do I
1) stick with my primary color choice (Gray) and add an aftermarket camera, or I was thinking there should be some way to just stick like a pvc pole on the hitch and trailer to line up when backing up??

2)Go with Black, In which case I need recommendations on aftermarket bedliners and add either the hitch or side steps?

Also, it looks like the standard wheels are 17", but the trucks I'm looking at have 20" chrome wheels. Pros/cons on the wheels???
 
Add the Oem camera on your own.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=391394

The great thing about these new vehicles is that if it comes from the factory you can add it, even if it's not sold as an accessory, with in reason. You will also have to find out if your radio is compatible with the rear cam. Certain electrical accessories will need to be enabled with dealerconnect to update your vin with the new accessory before the computer enable the accessory for use. I had this done with my wife's Routan when I added the Oem fogs. Yes her VW Routan is a Chrysler in disguise.

On to the rims, for my dad its a love/upset relationship. The Chrome wheels are"clad". A glorious name for a perfect fitting hub cap that looks just like a Chrome rim. They're not bad you just have to keep an eye out where the aluminum rim (the lip) meets the clad cap, the rim can oxidize. Not very noticeable but drives me bat shit crazy that they did it. Everyone is doing it, my neighbors totally loaded expedition has them. Sign of the times

What about having "your" truck built?

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2
 
Oh, call another dealer to find out how much they charge for the bed liner, they threw it in on my pops 06. It really fits nice. It looks great under the tonneau cover, lol.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2
 
I never get crazy on the detail options. BECAUSE... you will never find it. The only time you can get exactly what you want, is if you order a truck. I did that with my 2000 Jeep Wranger. It was kind of cool, seeing it show up with my name printed directly on the window sticker.

Anyway.... the harder you work to get the truck you want with 100% of the options/color/wheels, and no extra's.... the worse the deal will be, because, the dealer knows they have you. I'm not saying to just fold over, and take what they have... but the small options can be added. (most of the time for less than the dealer was going to do)


Anyway... I would get the Gray Metalic truck you were going to get. Then... if you REALLY want some option... you can add it. If it has the GPS or the MyGig radio (with the screen) You can add the camera for under $300. I personaly kept going back and forth with adding a backup cam... but I just couldn't justify the price. SO.. I bought the $10 alignment poles from harborfreight, and a hitch/bumper gaurd for about $40. Basically... the ball/poles line me up, as I backup. Then I simply back up, until the gaurd hits the trailer. Makes it easy to hitch up the boat by myself.


One reason I decided to go that way was:

1) WAY cheaper
2) I own 4 trailers, and only one is too heavy to just pull over to the truck, and put on. (so, it gets used only a few times I year)




With that all said... I would like the camera in my new truck (If I get my diesel in October) but I won't pass up a truck without it.


Actually... for me... the only stopping points are:

1) 20" wheels. (VERY expensive tires)

2) Leather interior. (hot and sweaty, and the kids will destroy it)

3) Black or white paint. (I dont' wash my truck all the time, and they just look bad when dirty)


Other than that... I'm flexable. (that's how you get the best deals)
 
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What about having "your" truck built?

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

I considered that, but if I go with a '13 m
model I can get a $37K truck for $29K with all the incentives. If I order a new '14 there a very few incentives so alot more $$
 
Have your dealer search further or do it yourself online. The last 3 cars we bought we had the dealer find exactly what we wanted down to the options. The last vehicle we bought was my wife's Routan and we used that www.truecar.com website. I entered all the options we wanted down to the color of the car and it will find 3 dealers that participate in the truecar process that have a vehicle that is close if not exact. The dealer we bought from had the exact car we wanted but in silver and we wanted white so for the same price they did a dealer swap. I won't give in on options. The wife wants leather and heated seat---without it she's not even opening the car door to look at it. And for me, if there isn't a sunroof/moonroof, I'm not looking either. As far as leather and kiddos I'll have to disagree with Doc, our last three cars have seen the messes of our two kids growing up for new borns to 8 years old and it's great, spills wipe right up and with the mats under the car seats it never really reaches them anyway. 20's are the new 15's. My dad just put new OE Goodyears on his Ram for $16 more than I did for putting 17's on my wife's Routan--and as you know I search for the best deal out there! 20's are cheap these days when compared to 17's. Good luck
 
I never get crazy on the detail options. BECAUSE... you will never find it. The only time you can get exactly what you want, is if you order a truck. I did that with my 2000 Jeep Wranger. It was kind of cool, seeing it show up with my name printed directly on the window sticker.

Anyway.... the harder you work to get the truck you want with 100% of the options/color/wheels, and no extra's.... the worse the deal will be, because, the dealer knows they have you. I'm not saying to just fold over, and take what they have... but the small options can be added. (most of the time for less than the dealer was going to do)


Anyway... I would get the Gray Metalic truck you were going to get. Then... if you REALLY want some option... you can add it. If it has the GPS or the MyGig radio (with the screen) You can add the camera for under $300. I personaly kept going back and forth with adding a backup cam... but I just couldn't justify the price. SO.. I bought the $10 alignment poles from harborfreight, and a hitch/bumper gaurd for about $40. Basically... the ball/poles line me up, as I backup. Then I simply back up, until the gaurd hits the trailer. Makes it easy to hitch up the boat by myself.


One reason I decided to go that way was:

1) WAY cheaper
2) I own 4 trailers, and only one is too heavy to just pull over to the truck, and put on. (so, it gets used only a few times I year)




With that all said... I would like the camera in my new truck (If I get my diesel in October) but I won't pass up a truck without it.


Actually... for me... the only stopping points are:

1) 20" wheels. (VERY expensive tires)

2) Leather interior. (hot and sweaty, and the kids will destroy it)

3) Black or white paint. (I dont' wash my truck all the time, and they just look bad when dirty)


Other than that... I'm flexable. (that's how you get the best deals)

I was worried about the price of replacing the 20" tires. I'll have them search for a truck without that package.
I found the alignment poles on HF, thaqt would be a cheap option to the camera.
I could not find the bumper guard?
 
I picked up a bed liner from a truck shop in town for $159. I found a ton on Craigslist for $100, but they were all for the quad cab...and I have a crew, so those wouldn't fit my truck. Same with the tonneau covers.

I'm going to take a look at the backup cameras that are independent. They're wireless now, and really easy to install...along with much cheaper than the factory option.
 
I was worried about the price of replacing the 20" tires. I'll have them search for a truck without that package.


Stick with the 20's---click the following link. It will have the link to the OE 17" size and the OE 20" size(second button in the right column). Even is you wanted to compare the cheapest 17 to the OE tire in a 20, it's gonna run you $100 more for 4 tires. But comparing the OE 17's to the OE 20's, the 20's are CHEAPER! I hear guys say that Oh these 20's are gonna kill me to replace them. My BIL was one of them. He just bought a 2013 Durango with 20's and was surprised that the OE tires were $150 each, just what he was paying for 17's on his Expedition. Like I said, 20's are the new 15's. Jeeps get 20's, Escalades, Tahoes, Yukons all get 20's, Camaros get 20's and the list goes on. I even have a local tire shop that will sell me tires installed for what tirerack just sells them for shipped.


http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Selec...l=1500+4wd&autoYear=2013&autoModClar=Quad+Cab
 
Here's another CLEAN way to install a rear cam, plus unlock NAV input while driving, Ipod integration etc.... This is the bomb right here. I understand about the add on back up cam, I prefer all my stuff to be clean no extra doodads hanging around to make it work. The lockpic has it all figured out. And the beauty of this is, you can resell it for cash later.

http://www.coastaletech.com/MYGIG.htm

Here are two camera options from them

http://www.coastaletech.com/LOCKPICK_CAMERAS.htm
 
I was worried about the price of replacing the 20" tires. I'll have them search for a truck without that package.
I found the alignment poles on HF, thaqt would be a cheap option to the camera.
I could not find the bumper guard?

Here ya go....

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...Coupler-Connect&i=71899&aID=603L&merchID=4006

http://www.harborfreight.com/magnetic-trailer-alignment-kit-69778.html

There are a few on ebay... but there is only a single tab on the back. (for mounting) SO, a couple hard hits, and it will bend. This one has 2 side tabs, so it's stronger. On a single axle... it will even line you up. (since it can pivot the trailer) But on a double axle, there is too much lateral resistance... but it will get you closer.


Basically that, and the HF balls... and I can hit my Islandia trailer, by myself, easy. Before I bought the guard... I would back up... stop... look... back up a little more... stop, look.... readjust... stop look..... ETC. PAIN IN THE BUTT. Now... I put on the guard, and the balls... and I back up, until I touch.


Regardless of the camera... the guard will keep accidental contact with the bumper, out of the equation.


I'm going to hitch up my boat a little later today. (going out tomorrow) So, I can snap a few pics if you want.
 
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I only buy Toyota trucks which will probably infuriate some here.

I own a small land surveying company and they are the only vehicles I will use for my fleet, tried Ford Chevy and Mazda with no success.

Toyota's just go and go.

For example, I am currently towing my 1800 with a 2007 FJ Cruiser, It has 120K miles on it, unscheduled maintenance? A rear axle seal went at 115K miles (replaced both rears). Outside tune ups, fluid changes (Transmission flush transfer case change and diff changes) I have not had to do a thing to this truck.

My daily work truck is a 1995 Tacoma, it has 210K miles on it and runs like it is brand new. I expect to go 350K miles or more with it.


If you need big towing, Tundra, if not and want Utility, FJ Cruiser or 4Runner, Or get a 4 door Tacoma with a V6 and you will have a truck for 15+ years problem free.
 
Toyota makes a decent truck, I used to love the old 4runners, but thought the Tacoma we had as a work truck rode like a brick. We have a Toyota plant in town (Rav 4) and it employs a ton of guys around here.

I'm not a brand loyal guy, my favourite truck was my 99 F250 with the triton V10. It blew 2 plugs out, which I fixed with heli coils until they blew again. Still, lasted 300 000km and I could tow a house. Currently a dodge ram owner and love it too, except the "hemi tick" annoys me now and then. My Chev was a 2wd and useless up here in winter. Lost the reverse band on it and sold it.

As for the 17 vs 20" tire debate, I've always preferred the look of a shorter rim with more rubber vs a taller rim with shorter rubber, if that makes sense. You could put a tall tire on a tall rim but I always think it looks like the wheel wells are stuffed full. And while tire prices are equalling out a bit, it's still cheaper to buy 17's, especially with big name tires.

Anyone have a Ford with the Ecoboost?
 
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More confusion

OK, so I stopped over at the Dodge dealership near the lake because I wanted to see the Prairie Pearl color in person. The wife really likes this color, but they didn't have the Mineral gray color there to compare side by side.

The truck they have there has all the basic options I'm looking for (including the backup camera) except for the side step which I guess wouldn't be a big deal to add on. Issue is, this truck only has the V6 3.6, not the 5.7 hemi.

From what I can see, the towing capacity for this truck is 4200 lbs. My boat dry weight is 2700. I just went out with a flashlight to look at the plate on the trailer for a trailer weight and the sticker I was looking at just has GAWR 3500, guess I'll have to look in the daylight for another plate with the trailer weight.

So the question is - is the 3.6 an option I should even consider (for the extra 3 mpg)??? and a couple thousand cheaper

I'm thinking my Santa Fe has a 3.5 in it so can't imagine a 3.6 being very much power for a truck. Is that what you meant about the 3.6 being a pig Tony?

Right now I only tow the boat (a couple miles) twice a year to put it in the water in the spring and take it out in the fall AND I'm seriously considering selling it and getting a pontoon, which I assume will be lighter. I also tow dual jet skis. So I'm not sure how much the towing should be a factor.
 

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