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The TRUTH about oil..what is it?

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96spxpos

96spxpos

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ok guys, I've heard various answers from various people. I just wanna make sure what the REAL truth is about the oil for 2 strokes. (there was another thread with some of this info in it).
I use a pennzoil marine oil, and i very well could be using the wrong one..dj red said it would kill the engine...eventually...a slow death....
even though the lettering is hard to read in the pic, it was also on two other brands i've seen, one at walmart and another at ace hardware..
I was told we have to use "injection oil", but this is what ALL THESE LABELS SAY:

"NMMA Certified TCW-3 This outboard two-cycle oil is SUITABLE for ALL PREMIX APPLICATIONS AND OIL INJECTION SYSTEMS WHERE premixing is NOT REQUIRED. This oil MEETS OR EXCEEDS NMMA requirements and the MOST STRINGENT requirements held by most major manufacturer's warranties, including, but not limited to: Suzuki, Yamaha, Evinrude, etc. that require a TCW-3 rated oil. This oil is safe for outboards, motorcycles, personal watercrafts, lawnmowers, etc"

So, can this oil be used or not? it is ashless or low ash as well.forgot what the jug said, i think its ashless.. its clearly stating that it can be used for oil injection..
The other jug said basically the same thing, but it said "can be used for "variable rate" oil injection applications as well...

So, any thoughts?o1.jpeg
 
96spxpos said:
ok guys, I've heard various answers from various people. I just wanna make sure what the REAL truth is about the oil for 2 strokes. (there was another thread with some of this info in it).
I use a pennzoil marine oil, and i very well could be using the wrong one..dj red said it would kill the engine...eventually...a slow death....
even though the lettering is hard to read in the pic, it was also on two other brands i've seen, one at walmart and another at ace hardware..
I was told we have to use "injection oil", but this is what ALL THESE LABELS SAY:

"NMMA Certified TCW-3 This outboard two-cycle oil is SUITABLE for ALL PREMIX APPLICATIONS AND OIL INJECTION SYSTEMS WHERE premixing is NOT REQUIRED. This oil MEETS OR EXCEEDS NMMA requirements and the MOST STRINGENT requirements held by most major manufacturer's warranties, including, but not limited to: Suzuki, Yamaha, Evinrude, etc. that require a TCW-3 rated oil. This oil is safe for outboards, motorcycles, personal watercrafts, lawnmowers, etc"

So, can this oil be used or not? it is ashless or low ash as well.forgot what the jug said, i think its ashless.. its clearly stating that it can be used for oil injection..
The other jug said basically the same thing, but it said "can be used for "variable rate" oil injection applications as well...

So, any thoughts?View attachment 10033
Click to expand...

Seadoo engines, unlike other brands require API-TC LOW ASH OIL. DO NOT USE TCW-3 oil
 
You're using the wrong oil, TCW3 is ashless, what you are using is basically outboard motor oil. You need to be using API-TC, low ash, you can use either mineral, synthetic blend, or full synthetic. Full synthetic is overkill for your engine, so you can use either the mineral or synthetic blend.

I would suggest Quicksilver PWC, ATI-TC synthetic blend, in the silver jug. You can get it at Walmart Super Stores or most Mercury Marine dealers. If your Walmart doesn't have it you can order it on line for pickup at the store with no freight charges.

Lou
 
Since you have been using the wrong oil, if you check your Rave valves you are going to find them pretty gunked up
 
Jake, I just checked my Clymer manual the 96SPX is a 720, no RAVE valves, so he probably doesn't need to clean them.

I think you need to go talk to the Walmart Greeter.

Did you forget to take your Aerocept today?

Lou
 
that oil will definitely kill your motor and it won't be that slow of a death. the most common reason for rebuilds that I see is using the wrong oil. using that oil will overheat the crank and/or the rod bearings and they will definitely fail, just a matter of time. If you want it to last, use seadoo 2 stroke mineral oil, it's proven and not that expensive.
 
missed his engine type, well he better at least change the fetzer valve, it is undoubtably plugged with gunk.
 
I think it's pronounced spitzer valve since it's made in Canada, but I'm more worried he ruined the gonkulator.
 
Made in Canada, eh.

Just checked my "Clymer" manual, the foremost authority on all SeaDoo's in the world, probably in the universe. It said that the knuter valve is probably also clogged, and discharging capacitive duractance through the torsal windings of the franostat because of loose girdle springs.

Top that.

Lou
 
I just read in my on-line SeaDoo manual that the franostat valve located under the temperature sensor should be changes if it gets gunked up with oil, as it will not allow the sensor to properly read the temp of the engine.

Also the NST bearing (just before the PTO may cease up and cause engine failure.
 
ok guys,with all this high flux capacitor,schnitzel valve,girdle spring,beef curtain,pork blind,steak flap talk, i really dont know whats real n wats fake..i have sea center across the street,i can get the oil tomorrow....i dont have rave valves, but i'll drain n change the oil tomorrow..on a SERIOUS note, lol, what else should i clean/check/replace tomorrow? i did notice certain parts of the motor being a little hotter than id imagine theyre supposed to be..the good news is hopefully i didnt eff it up too bad,checked compression today,bout 145 in both
 
It's all just double talk, but you do need to change from the oil that you are using. Let us know when you get the new oil and what brand and we'll help you through changing it. It's not really a big deal but there are some precautions. The reason I suggested the Quicksilver is I'm pretty sure it's compatible with the TC-W3 that you are using.

Lou
 
ok good..yea,theres no ski dealers out here up until largo i think,but being a fishing capital,there are marine centers EVERYWHERE, including across the street..so either way, ill get the oil tomorrow..so theres no other internal valves or sensors i need to check or clean? how do i go about getting the oil out thats lubing the rotary valve? thanks lou..
 
You don't need to worry about the rotary valve gear, it's just drip feed, not a big deal. When you get the new oil mix it, about half and half with the oil that you are using. Let it sit at least overnight. Then strain it, a coffee filter works well, if there is no jell like substance you're good to go. Just pump out the oil in the tank get out as much as you can and add the new oil.

You should also change the oil filter, but you're probably going to have to order one, you can do that later. This all depends if the oils are compatible, so let us know.

Lou
 
I did some reading about both oils and i don't understand why they differ . The spec TC W3 oil is for most every 2 stroke ever made , injected or not and the PWC TC oil is made specifically for Wave runner , Seadoo PWC and Polaris . Anybody know the difference between both ?
 
The difference is lubricity vs tribology. The boiling point is what makes one crude petroleum heavy or light, at least by a mechanical engineering spectrum. The best oil in the world today is in Canada. Castol BRP removes the sulfers, metals, ect. making the molecule chain
one extra element than the crude oils found in sand.
 
96 - Sorry for all the double blubber talk.
I resolve now never to write fake stuff again. It's hard enough, especially when new to understand all the things in a Seadoo.
Let's keep the funny stuff in "Ask Jake and Lou" thread only,after all that thread is just too funny not to read at least once.

Who is with me on this?
 
Seadoobuddy said:
96 - Sorry for all the double blubber talk.
I resolve now never to write fake stuff again. It's hard enough, especially when new to understand all the things in a Seadoo.
Let's keep the funny stuff in "Ask Jake and Lou" thread only,after all that thread is just too funny not to read at least once.

Who is with me on this?
Click to expand...

since you post so much wrong info, how do we draw the line between fake and wrong?
 
Double Blubber stuff.??Is that the fat Bastard from the austin Powers movies?Come on SDB.Lets both skip down the Yellow Brick road.
This site is different BECAUSE we enjoy the fun of both skiis and people.The knowledge here is unquestionable and the answers are there.Albeit in a roundabout way.If the answer is there,what is wrong with some fun in the same post.C'mon.Lets not get the fun police involved.The original thread is answered in a light hearted way.Nothing wrong with that.
NOW.Vee sharl all stund en line.UND dar vill be no talkink
 
Ya know ive had to bite my tongue a lot lately. You guys get carried away with all the playing on here and it takes over almost every thread. New people come in asking a serious question and before ya know it, the thread is filled with 20 posts that have nothing to do with the original question. I sometimes hijack threads but not for the sole purpose of cracking jokes. It gets kinda old reading it all over honestly. I like to have just as much fun as any of you, but there is a place for that. I thought your own thread would fix the problem, but apparently it hasnt.
 
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