• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

The TRUTH about oil..what is it?

Status
Not open for further replies.
To the OP, there are a few oil alternatives that are cheaper and more readily available than the Sea Doo XPS. A lot of people, myself included use quicksilver PWC oil that can be found at a lot of wal marts. If you can find it, Mystik JT4 is the lowest price and meets all the specs. If you have an academy sports nearby, they carry it.
 
Good lord. You can't swing a dead cat around this place without hitting an oil thread.

OK... here's the short answer.

1) TC-w3 oils CAN NOT protect an engine producing more than 80 hp/L and over 6000 RPM.

2) TC-w3 oils CAN NOT protect the bronze rotary valve gears.

3) TC-w3 oils WILL gum up your rings and RAVES. (if you have them)


With that said... TC-w3 oil isn't bad... but because of the design of a Rotax engine... it doesn't provide the proper protection. The last generation of Kawi and Yamaha 2-strokes were allowd to use TC-w3... and those engines never lasted more than 4 or 5 seasons. Seadoo/Rotax engines put out more power... and it's common to see a 15 year old seadoo with it's original engine. (my personal 96 XP and 91 Si both have the factory engines because of the good oils) Polaris originally bought into the EPA's recommendation of TC-w3 oils, and allowed the use of it in their PWC. BUT... after 2001... they realized that the oil couldn't support the higher RPM's... then they changed to a API-TC only stance.


There should be no doubt about this. The last guy who tried to deny what we told him... he wound up buying 2 new engines at the end of the first season he owned them. FYI... his name was Surfbeat. Look up his threads from last year.


PERIOD.
 
Last thing.

It is CHEMICALLY IMPOSSIBLE to have a dual certification, because of the absence of the Azo salts, and the Phosphor compounds. SO... if it says TC-w3... DO NOT USE IT !!!!!!!!

Save it for your low RPM outboard engine, and lawn equipment.
 
I should just make a web site with the best of the best info and post just that.

but yea, I'm tired of 'oil' threads, and agree 100% with the Dr.'s info. I've only ever run XPS full synthetic, and never had an oil related issue / failure.
 
RFoster130 said:
Ya know ive had to bite my tongue a lot lately. You guys get carried away with all the playing on here and it takes over almost every thread. New people come in asking a serious question and before ya know it, the thread is filled with 20 posts that have nothing to do with the original question. I sometimes hijack threads but not for the sole purpose of cracking jokes. It gets kinda old reading it all over honestly. I like to have just as much fun as any of you, but there is a place for that. I thought your own thread would fix the problem, but apparently it hasnt.
Click to expand...

agree we joke sometimes too much, but i don't think the thread was hi-jacked. The orininal post was clearly answered by me in the very first response and again by Lou in the 2nd response before any joking started. Honestly, how many different ways can ya tell someone not to use TCW-3 oil.

I posted a link to an excellent article a couple years ago that explains the properties, uses, temperature ranges, etc for the different types of oils. It is a great read for anyone trying to understand oil types. I had it bookmarked but unfortunately my laptop with the bookmark died, if I find the link I will repost.
 
Good point and point taken.The thread was answered well and correctly 22 posts ago.There is also so much great info on this site about oils and lubricants.It's great to see a very knowedgable man,post all the correct info and technical data for an answer and the answer comes back."why".
I have seen you post many great answers to guys questions and a short time later the person goes with a very diiferent answer,and 2 weeks later is back asking about the same thing.This is with all due respect.
Don't hold back and bite your tongue.Come on to Ask J n L and vent.It's all good.Thick skin on all of us.(it's the breeeding)and never any grudges and crap.
Good post
This is a reply to RFoster.TY
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wow...
All i can say is thanks to all who got the answer to me..with or without the joking...(i'm guilty of crackin some myself)....just really wanted to know what oil to use, and how to get that crud out of the bottom end of the motor so i can put the new stuff in...Lou said not to worry bout that...so looks like case is closed.
 
SeaDooLou said:
You don't need to worry about the rotary valve gear, it's just drip feed, not a big deal. Lou
Click to expand...

so i take this as just leave the oil in there thats already there, start premixing the new oil, and also put the new oil in the tank for the RV
 
Some one said they use Yamalube in a Seadoo....is that OK?

My nephew bought some Kawachem for his Yamaha....is that OK? They look the same but I didn't check the stats.


Great post by Bill, Tony and Foster. I C&P'ed to word and put it in my Seadoo file.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Lou and the Doc have been here to help.Not bad creds.Same as Minnie answering your boot question,you got great info.:cheers:
 
now if i can only get outside to work on it...been raining here for three days...thats my boss' canoe, he just emptied it completely at 8pm last nite, its already almost under...
went out to my car this morning, water was up to my shins, almost at the level of my car door, my exhaust was bubbling, and i had land snails ALL over my windows...they were tryin not to drown i guess...its a freakin mess down here!:cuss:c1.jpeg
 
Seadoobuddy said:
Some one said they use Yamalube in a Seadoo....is that OK?
Click to expand...

Someone? Someone? I just said it five posts ago. I'm sitting right here. I hear you. :)

But yes, I really do use it, the stuff marked PWC, not the version for outboards. Drove it all summer with nary an issue (we not an engine oil issue).
 
OH by all means i didn't mean to exclude Jake & Lou and others for their postings on this thread. They actually answered it way early here.
There are lots of people here who know a ton of info about Seadoo watercraft. Some people only know about 2 strokes...and we need those as there are millions of those engines out here. As the 2stroke gets older and maybe disappear, we will see more 4tec skis that need work and goodness know that's a whole new ballgame for many of us. So we will see the same type of questions repeat in a few yrs but for the 4stroke. Pretty soon we will see a quad and 6 cylinders in skis that weigh a ton and sink like that Chinese ship did during the initial launch.
 
:lols::lol:I think thats was rather humorous to see
oops 2 posts ago
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It depends, there are also different types of yamalube. Read the bottle is the best thing to do. Most yamalube is tcw3, not API low ash. I think there is 1 that is, but dont remember which one it is.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
RFoster130 said:
It depends, there are also different types of yamalube. Read the bottle is the best thing to do. Most yamalube is tsw3, not API low ash. I think there is 1 that is, but dont remember which one it is.
Click to expand...

Yes, there is, I use it.


John in Valley Forge said:
Someone? Someone? I just said it five posts ago. I'm sitting right here. I hear you. :)

But yes, I really do use it, the stuff marked PWC, not the version for outboards. Drove it all summer with nary an issue (we not an engine oil issue).
Click to expand...



My mistake, it is not marked PWC, it says 2W (for 2-stroke watercraft) and has a photo of people on PWCs.
The other stuff is marked 2M or 4M (for 2 stroke marine or 4-stroke marine).

I've got a bottle of 2M at home, bought it by accident.
 
96spxpos said:
so i take this as just leave the oil in there thats already there, start premixing the new oil, and also put the new oil in the tank for the RV
Click to expand...

That's not exactly what I said. What I said was pump or drain all the oil that you can.

Only drain the old oil and add the new oil if the oils are compatible. If the oils are not compatible you will need to drain the oil lines and bleed the system. So before you proceed be sure to check (run the test I outlined) and make sure they are compatible.

I believe the Pennzoil TCW3 is compatible with the Quicksilver API-TC because I got a ski a couple of months ago with the same problem. But do the compatibility test to be sure. The guy I bought my ski from was using SuperTech (Walmart Brand) TCW3 which is made by Pennzoil.

How was that, not a joke in the reply.

Lou
 
Last edited by a moderator:
SeaDooLou said:
That's not exactly what I said. What I said was pump or drain all the oil that you can.

Only drain the old oil and add the new oil if the oils are compatible. If the oils are not compatible you will need to drain the oil lines and bleed the system. So before you proceed be sure to check (run the test I outlined) and make sure they are compatible.

I believe the Pennzoil TCW3 is compatible with the Quicksilver API-TC because I got a ski a couple of months ago with the same problem. But do the compatibility test to be sure. The guy I bought my ski from was using SuperTech (Walmart Brand) TCW3 which is made by Pennzoil.

How was that, not a joke in the reply.

Lou
Click to expand...



What do you mean by "Compatable"? Same chemical makeup?
 
Go back about 10 posts, I outlined a test you can do to test for compatibility. Mix the 2 oils together, it they don't jell you're good to go.

Lou
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

S
Possible location of oil leak
Replies
6
Views
331
SabotageR1
S
K
How do I fix this?
Replies
10
Views
303
Grim
Grim
7
Dealer right or wrong? (BRP oil question)
Replies
1
Views
369
azsxr
azsxr
H
2000 GTX RFI oil pump issue?
Replies
2
Views
145
H€PHÆ$TU$
H
B
1999 GTX RFI oil leak after rebuild
Replies
19
Views
463
burtshaver2021
burtshaver2021
Back
Top