Seadoo RXTX 2010-2012 problems by year?

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hprelude

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Hi everyone

i currently have a 2006 RXT which ive owned for 4 years now.
Ive been deciding to upgrade to the newer shape RXTX between the years of 2010-2012

I was wondering how reliable are these skis in comparison to the 06 RXT. Ive never had a problem with the RXT and im worried that the RXTX will cause me problems because of all the electronics on them.

Also is the sinking issue with the air suspension model only? im after one without suspension.
Any help will be awesome, especially when i have someone currently about to come and purchase my rxt tonight.

Im asking myself if im doing the right thing by upgrading.

Thanks in advance
 
Given that the newer models didn't have the supercharger issue, I'd say the newer ones are more reliable than your current model, although they're all pretty good now. It's the 2012 model with the iBR, so if you want to keep it simple you can go for the 2011 model. I've got the iBR on my GTR and haven't had any problems, though. The sinking issue was exclusive to the suspension models, although I don't know how common it really was. I like the newer style, so I think you'd be making the biggest upgrade by getting the 2012 model. Good luck.
 
Thanks for the reply, it seems like the iBr was standard on the 2010 onwards model?
In any case, I'd be after one with it.

I'm more concerned about electrical issues with the rxtx as I've heard a lot of the electrics tend to stop working and costs a heap to replace parts. As the old rxt is pretty basic (not much electronic equipment) I'm questioning whether to keep the older model for that reason. Have you had your gtr for long without any issues at all?

I'm glad the sinking issue isn't with the non air suspension model. I'll stay well away from the suspension model. I've seen a Facebook page that's all about seadoos sinking and was getting worried. They seem to be the newer skis and a few of the older ones around the 2000s
 
2009 and 2010 had iBR issues. There are ic leaking issues with all the models that have the ic separate(not in the intake manifold) especially when used in saltwater.
 
Also has anyone experienced inter cooler issues with these skis?


There was a bad batch of IC's. I want to say around 2010-2011 era. I may be wrong on the years, I just recall that Seadoo did an upgrade to fix them.

The updated style no longer has the crack issues as well as the older models. Again, I THINK the years were the 10-11, but would investigate this further to make sure.
 
Regarding electrical issues: one thing many people don't think about after a day on the water having a blast, is letting the interior of the hull vent with outside air for a few hours at least after all riding is done for the day.

Within an hour of finishing riding, the interior turns into a hot-house sauna... engine heat radiates throughout the hull, small amounts of water in the bottom of the hull (even if you pull the drain plugs you won't get it all out!) turns to super humidity. If you just leave the seats on and go eat dinner and go to bed, all that super hot humid air is going to sit inside the hull penetrating everything including the wiring and electronics!

Always remember at the end of the day to take your seat(s) off and let the hull air out and cool down for at least 2-3 hours (if not overnight). It just makes sense if you stop and think about it.

I still love my '06 RXT, wouldn't trade it for anything else. Regards!

- Michael
 
I was searching all day yesterday and it seems to be the 2011 model with the IC issues, seems like people just change them to the older style. Definitely a problem with them though.

Then I saw a timing chain issue with the 2011 model as well and a recall notice. I have the PDF about it if anyone is curious.
Definitely don't want any iBR issues, I'll be looking at a 2011 onwards.

I agree with letting the motor air out, I normally do that the next day once I rince it down the next day to clean the ski. Probably would be a good idea to let it air out after you've been out on the water with the warm motor under there.
I've never had issues with my rxt though so I'm pretty happy with it. Out of curiosity, how many hours are on your rxt? Mines in 101 and runs awesome, owned it since 43hours.
 
I'm the 2nd owner since 2009, had 56 hours on it when I bought it (engine had a bent connecting rod on cylinder #1 which I fixed myself), now has 96+ hours on it. Engine runs fine, had it up to about 68 mph on the speedo with more throttle left to go still. Change engine oil, filter, and spark plugs every year usually at season's end when 1st overnight freezes start hitting my area. Just installed and had the OEM depth finder function activated and love it!!! Don't know how I ever lived without knowing the water depth under my keel! LOL!

Upgrades include: R&D Aquavein intake grate, R&D 1 1/2 degree pump wedge, Solas Concord 13/17 SS impeller in the pump (new wear ring sleeve installed at same time), filled and sanded smooth the ride plate bolt hole recesses and used black silicone all along the ride plate to hull seam to eliminate the factory gap as well as siliconed around the heads of the R&D Aquavein intake grate to smooth them out... just anything I could to do smooth out the water flow across the underside of the hull essentially! And I just got the OEM depth finder installed and activated, it's awesome and holds good readings up thru at least 40 mph (gotta get some more good calm afternoons to try going much faster before freezes begin here).

I kinda like the idea of the iBR system, I just don't like the implementation one bit. The electronics all need to stay inside of the hull with cables going thru the transom to the controls, putting even so much as a single electrical part outside the hull in the water is a problem waiting to happen.

I'd kind of like to try figuring out a way to add electronic reverse lever control to my '06 RXT with a lever on the left handlebar and a solenoid inside the hull operating the existing manual lever (the driver's brain would still be responsible for letting off the throttle though, which is fine in my humble opinion).

All the iBR system is doing is letting off the throttle (electronically, since it's only available on the throttle-by-wire controlled SeaDoo's) and then pulling down the reverse bucket on the back of the pump with the external solenoid then applying a small amount of throttle to "brake" the boat. I've been doing that sort of thing with my big jet boat for decades (release foot throttle pedal cabled to carbs, left hand operating the reverse bucket lever for the jet pump).

- Michael
 
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Oh and for safety I immediately in 2009 installed a SeaSense fully automatic 660 gpm electronic bilge pump in the hull next to the jet pump tunnel and plumbed the outlet hose to dump out right under the rear grab handle (in the gap between the rungs on the left hand side where I can see it in my rear view mirror). It's wired to be in automatic mode 100% of the time even when the DESS key is removed (having a mechanical float switch integrated into the pump, it doesn't draw any power unless it has to activate). Manual override rocker switch in glove box along with a power outlet to run corded 12v air pump for inflating tubes and such.

Never needed it, worth it though!

- Michael
 
Go 2012 and up. Avoid the 2009-2011 where the pump bolts to the ride plate.

The 2009-2010 had the crap drive shaft/retaining ring hence the sinking problem.

2011 was the start of the best sc washers to date.

Intercooler updated part number ends in 332.

Intercooler problems from 2011-2013 mainly. 2009 and 2010 were the last of the good coolers until the 2016 large anode based cooler
 
I have the 2011 and have just found out that the ic is buggered , I wasn't notified of any recall and have always had it serviced at the dealer I bought it from , they covered parts but not labour , I'd be interested to see the recall notice if u can get your hands on it , cheers
 
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