rough idle and whine noise

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Curtbutler

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Hi

i have a 97 gsi and the last time i took it out i noticed is has started to to idle rough. startes at bout 1400 the slowly falles down to about 1000 if you give it no gas. then toward the end of the day i noticed at idle and low speed i could hear a whining noise that with rpm pitch increased. im pretty familiar with my ski doo rotax rebuilt top and lower ends, but i dont know what this noise could be. im sure it needs attention, im just wondering how to diagnose it and is is like a crank bearing bout to go bad? or is in the drive shaft? HELP!!!!

curt
 
Hi

i have a 97 gsi and the last time i took it out i noticed is has started to to idle rough. startes at bout 1400 the slowly falles down to about 1000 if you give it no gas. then toward the end of the day i noticed at idle and low speed i could hear a whining noise that with rpm pitch increased. im pretty familiar with my ski doo rotax rebuilt top and lower ends, but i dont know what this noise could be. im sure it needs attention, im just wondering how to diagnose it and is is like a crank bearing bout to go bad? or is in the drive shaft? HELP!!!!
curt

First off lets make sure you are running correctly.
1. does the ski have the gray tempo fuel lines
2. What the compression?
3. what oil are you using?
4. Has the pump oil been changed recently?
5. Have the Carbs been cleaned or rebuilt recently?
6. PTO bearing been kept greased?
 
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First off lets make sure you are running correctly.
1. does the ski have the gray tempo fuel lines
2. What the compression?
3. what oil are you using?
4. Has the pump oil been changed recently?
5. Have the Carbs been cleaned or rebuilt recently?
6. PTO bearing been kept greased?

ok yes i have the gray fuel lines, both cylinders are at about 140 and im using the BRP synthetic oil blend 2 stroke, PTO has been greased regularly i believe, carbs have not been touched in long time. but i just took apart the jet pump and impeller assy. the black pump cone deal was being rubbed by the impeller shaft and there was a bunch of plastic from it floating around in there and the cone is toast, oil was low and seemed like there was water in it. i cant get the impeller shaft out cause i dont know how to unscrew it without damageing the impeller. i want to check the thrust bearings and stuff to make sure thats the problem
 
They deteriorate with the new ethanol fuels. They clog your selector and carbs with green goo. Motor runs lean, and BANG
 
Clogged ports due to the goo from the lines. Same thing on my GSi.... Get a rebuild kit for the carb, and a pail of carb cleaner that you can soak it in. ($20 at NAPA)
 
Yep, change those lines out ASAP and pull the carbs apart to clean and clean the filters out, I would not ride it till this is done. Will take about 4-5 hours for everything.
 
ok will do, there are alot of fuel lines holy crap. but ya ive cleaned my rotax 700 snowmobile carbs about 100 times so this should be simular. i dont think i will buy a whole rebuild kit tho. tight budget. just wondering would you be safe if you only ran premium gas with no ethanol in it?
 
No. Pull the carbs out. At a very minimum take little fuel filters out and clean them good. if you want to re-use gaskets, take them off carefully, then soak carb in carb cleaner. Take a wire from a wire brush and poke through all the little holes and orifices, especially the idle circuits in the throat of the carb. Then compressed air, blow through everything. clean the mating surfaces (emory cloth works great) and put them all back together. Change out the fuel lines (you do not need to do the vent ones, they can be left grey) Clean fuel selector valve, and fuel/water separator. Fresh gas. and ride it.

If you're a proactive maintenance person, get a 5/16'' inline clear fuel filter (fram G2 i beleive) and put it just before the carbs. that will save your carbs from any crap in the fuel system. And then you can visually see if stuff is getting caught. All this will cost ~60 bucks all said and done, and a full day. Only thing i would advise replacing are the base gaskets to the carbs. you don't want an air leak there!
 
ok great advice! but ok whats the fuel/water seperator?

open your hood and look inside, the fuel filer/water separator is mounted to the top of the hull above the fuel tank. it just unscrews by hand, there is a mesh filter inside, soak it in some Super Clean or Purple Power (Do not use Carb Cleaner). Watch that you don't lose the o-ring when you unscrew it
 
ok so finally got around to it today, replaced all the lines that have fuel in them, just didnt do 1 or two that didnt go through the selector idk if the were over flow or vent or w.e. but didnt money with those. i also put a fuel filter righ before the carb, when i cleaned the carb it looked really clean, just one little thing in fuel pump filter, and nothing in needle jet, couldnt get to other jets i would have stripped the two skrew to get to them, just guna assume it was clean from the looks of it.

i got 2 questions tho, is there supose to be a gasket between the carb and the engine? the wasnt one. and so now i noticed my arm on my oil injector wont spring back the spring must have came loose, it would be fine if i just rigged my own spring on it to pull it back when i let off the gas? it wont retract back from wot position without pushing it back.
 
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