Project Brother-In-Law: 2000 GTX DI

[rjcress]

In the fall of 2012 my father gave up on the GTX DI that he bought new back in 2000. A few years prior he let my brother-in-law take it to a small local lake. :facepalm: It has not run since...
hence the title of this thread. I'm sure you know the type... anything they touch breaks... that is my BIL.

For a couple of YEARS dad couldn't decide what to do. He had babied that GTX, but didn't want the expense of having a rebuilt motor put in an almost 10 year old ski. He also wasn't ready to part with it... it literally sat in his garage for a few years. He finally gave up and bought a new SeaDoo at the end of the season last year. The guy that had torn down the GTX to figure out why it didn't run had offered that Dad could either pay him $225 for the diagnosis, or let him keep and part out the GTX. Dad told the guy he could keep it. Apparently, Dad had forgotten that when it broke a few years prior I said I would help if he wanted to fix it himself, or if he ever gave up on it, that I'd buy it and fix it. I made some frantic calls and was able to get the GTX back from the guy before he started pulling parts. He wasn't happy, as he already had buyers lined up for a few parts... but I paid the $225 and left with the GTX.

Here it is in my garage on the PVC stand I made:

It was a MESS. The guy had not labeled or grouped any of the parts as they came off... so there were a couple of Wendy's cups full of various screws, bolts, nuts, fasteners, etc. Major parts in various places in the engine bay (in a pool of oil, water, and whatever grows in oil and water) and in boxes. I got it home (2 hours away) and realized some important parts were missing. More frantic calls and I was able to pick up another box with stuff like the fuel distributor a week later. I think I have all of the parts now... but won't know for sure until I sort them all out to start reassembly.
Here are some early questions I had as I broke stuff removing the engine to send it to SES:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?56866-should-I-bypass-the-waterchannel-cover(s)-951-DI

Some before the rebuild pics:

The engine was still bolted in, but torn down like this when I go it:

I sent the engine to SES and had it rebuilt at the end of 2012.
However, before I could get it reinstalled I was trolling Craigslist for a waterchannel cover and stumbled across a Challenger jet boat for cheap. You can see how that project has gone here:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?58104-Project-Dog-House-1996-Challenger
However, it is safe to say that I didn't do everything perfect on that project. Really hoping this one goes better.

With the Challenger out of commission for a few weeks, I'm finally refocusing on the GTX.
Just ordered the bottom waterchannel cover from Minnetonka4me... should have it later this week. Already have the round one. Also have a bunch of tygon in various sizes to replace oil and water lines, where appropriate. Hoping that the fuel pump and fuel lines are OK and don't need attention.
The jet pump would not turn freely, leading edges of the impeller blades were dinged up, and the wear ring was shot.
I rebuilt the jet pump and added a Solas DynaFly Impeller ST-DF-13/19, so it is ready to go back in.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?58760-How-to-read-impeller-numbers-ie-13-19-vs-14-18

Not optimistic that I'll have it back together for the Memorial Day weekend, as I'm sure I'll run across myriad missing parts that will take time to source... but there is that remote chance.

Step one will be to pressure wash the inside of the engine compartment, as it is disgusting.
Then I'll start cleaning up engine accessories and reinstalling them.

Anyone who has been through this, please speak up if there are things that you learned. I'd much rather hear about them before I make the mistakes.

I have the shop manual & SBT's 951 install guide.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

wow. if I saw that ski I'd part it out. And I'm the unofficial 951 guy. the chance of missing parts, bolts, etc, are just WAY too high for me.

I hope it goes well for you.

How did SES treat you? do you have the engine back now?

I have too many 951 install tips for a forum, I promise I'll make a video soon as I find a 951 ski in need of repair (that I can buy locally).

 

[rjcress]

wow. if I saw that ski I'd part it out. And I'm the unofficial 951 guy. the chance of missing parts, bolts, etc, are just WAY too high for me.

I hope it goes well for you.

Thanks. This one "should" be complete, since I know it was complete when dropped off... we shall see.
I would likely not have bought one in pieces like this if I didn't have something to make be believe all the parts were there... like knowing the history of this ski and how it got to where it was when I got it.

How did SES treat you? do you have the engine back now?

SES was pretty good on this first rebuild. Took a while, but it looks good. I haven't installed it yet though.
On my jet boat, that rebuild was faster, but the engine only lasted 2 hours before it lost compression. Likely my fault, but too soon to say for sure (all the details are in my Challenger build thread).
UPS will pick it up today to take it back to SES to be re-rebuilt.
Tom has been great so far, but I'm concerned at how long it might take.

I have too many 951 install tips for a forum, I promise I'll make a video soon as I find a 951 ski in need of repair (that I can buy locally).

In the mean time, can you summarize the top 3 tips, maybe?

 

[rjcress]

Pressure washed the GTX inside and out this morning. Hope to start putting things back together this evening.

Before:

After:
Still some oil seeping out of crevices here and there. I'll leave it out to dry today and wipe it out tonight before starting reassembly.

The original seats are still pretty good, and are in the garage.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

1. clean everything
2. clean it again
3. clean your cleaning tools.

But serously, clean it.

you can't spot trouble if everything looks like crap.

also; who tore the RAVEs down for no apparent reason and left them hanging on by the air hose?!

this is why I don't accept machines that have been 'worked on'.

 

[rjcress]

1. clean everything
2. clean it again
3. clean your cleaning tools.

But serously, clean it.

you can't spot trouble if everything looks like crap.

also; who tore the RAVEs down for no apparent reason and left them hanging on by the air hose?!

this is why I don't accept machines that have been 'worked on'.

Clean it. Check.

No joke, dude. I nearly crapped my pants when I saw how the "mechanic" had torn it apart.
I think the hardest part of the work I have in front of me will be sorting through the mess to get all the parts grouped together and ID what is missing.

 

[jhjesse]

When you get to the fuel system check out this thread:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?46680-DI-Seadoo-Fuel-Pump

Like everything else, if you are going this far into it...go all the way and make it right. I have the exact same ski and even though it was running good when I got it, I still took it down and performed hours of PM's on it that I know had never been performed before. Hopefully my time will payoff this summer.
I also removed the fuel tank and completely cleaned it. Man there was a lot of crap in the tank.
I also took the fuel pump apart and replaced both the internal filters, as well, as the external filter with crossover filters from O'Reilly auto parts, but before I replaced the filters I ran a mixture of toluene and gas through the pump for about 5 minutes just as the above thread instructed. You should've seen the crap that came out of the pump. Both Bills86e and DooWacka say by doing that you can add years to the life of the fuel pump.

Crap...didn't mean to babble on about my ski, but just tell you some things to look for and check into when the time comes.

 

[rjcress]

Crap...didn't mean to babble on about my ski, but just tell you some things to look for and check into when the time comes.

Babble? What are you talking about. This is EXACTLY the kind of feedback/info I was looking for. Thanks!

 

[jhjesse]

When you get it all together and start her up for the first time take a volt meter and check across the battery to make sure it is charging...while you are performing your other checks of course.
Should be 12.8vdc to 13.5vdc. Anything less and the rectifier is probably bad. These skis are prone to blow rectifiers after they have some age on them. There are several after market heavy duty rectifiers on the market that will take care of the problem should it arise.
When my ski belonged to my buddy from Germany, I replaced it a couple of times for Him. Then I found a heavy duty after market rectifier and that seemed to solved the problem. OSD sells one, but there are others...I think on ebay. Might be worth a look

 

[rjcress]

Looks like the bottom waterchannel from Minnetonka4me won't get here until next week. So, this morning, instead of cleaning parts for reassembly, I moved the GTX off of the trailer and onto PVC the stand that I made in the fall. It fits soooo much better in the garage on the stand.
The trailer was set up for a nearly flat bottom john boat, so I modified the bunks to fit the GTX and added carpet. The winch post was too far forward, which made the trailer REALLY tongue heavy, so I moved it aft and slid the trailer jack forward a bit.
Now, when I have the GTX ready, the trailer will be ready also.

Before: flat 2x4 bunks with a cross piece in front for the PO's john boat. You can see how the GTX is on the cross piece and not even touching the bunks until the very aft section.

After: Cross piece gone, bunks cut at ~40 degree angle, carpet added, tongue and jack swapped for balance.

 

[rjcress]

A month after the last post... here is what I've gotten done:
31 days of nothing GTX related.
My Challenger engine fried the top end. Sent it back... they only did the top end (warranty repair).
Got about 11 hours out of it before the bottom end locked up. Spun one rod bearing, and the other was going. The 2nd warranty repair should be done and on the UPS truck headed my way tomorrow. If UPS is quick, maybe I'll have it back on the water this weekend.
Since the whole family fits in the Challenger, it (and other things like my son's Cub Scout camp) took priority over the GTX.

Last night I finally cleaned up the parts and started putting the rebuilt GTX engine back together.
I got enough done that I was able to set it in the hull and start hooking up hoses & connectors. Maybe I'll get more done tonight. Would be cool if I have it ready for the water this weekend also... but not counting on it. Too much other stuff going on.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Hang the engine by the hole in the top of the exhaust manifold. That's how it sits in the hull, and how it's meant to be suspended. I use a pull pall and small S metal clip. The color of your exhaust manifolds would indicate the engine was overheated at some point.

 

[rjcress]

I'm stumped on a fitting... can anyone tell me what hooks to it. I've been through the shop and parts manuals and can't figure it out.
It is on the bottom of the 951 DI, at the PTO end. Little brass nipple... just not sure which hose/tube goes on it.
The fitting is circled in RED

 

[- BiRkS_]

Thats the counter balance shaft cavity. So my best bet is thats a vent line? I have a 951 carbed engine i've just built, but it doesn't have that nipple.

 

[rjcress]

Thats the counter balance shaft cavity. So my best bet is thats a vent line? I have a 951 carbed engine i've just built, but it doesn't have that nipple.

I've always found extra nipples intriguing. Hoping someone can solve this for me, as I'm sure it has to have something attached to it.

 

[rjcress]

I'm guessing it is an oil return line connection, but haven't found it in the manual yet.

 

[rjcress]

Looks like it is the return line from the lower crankcase to just below the oil tank filler. It was a royal PITA to get it hooked up, so I hope it is right.

 

[rjcress]

Is there a trick to tightening the bolt that attaches the stinger pipe to the support on the starboard side of of the engine? I've been fighting with this for 30 minutes... can't get a socket on it, no room to turn a wrench. The best I've been able to do is get some channel locks on it to turn maybe 1/16 of a rotation at a time. The manual shows that it is to be torqued to 40 Lb, but I can't figure out how to do that when i am barely able to tighten the bolt at all. definitely can't get a torque wrench in there.

 

[rjcress]

OMFG! Who designed this friggin' exhaust system?! There are multiple bolts that I can't get to! One of the pipe to manifold bolts, for example... Then angle of the bolt won't let me get any of my allen wrenches or allen head sockets in there. This should have taken 10 minutes to tighten the exhaust bolts, but is dragging into several expletive-filled hours.
grrrrr :banghead:

 

[dan87951]

OMFG! Who designed this friggin' exhaust system?! There are multiple bolts that I can't get to! One of the pipe to manifold bolts, for example... Then angle of the bolt won't let me get any of my allen wrenches or allen head sockets in there. This should have taken 10 minutes to tighten the exhaust bolts, but is dragging into several expletive-filled hours.
grrrrr :banghead:

What I did was go to harbor freight and buy a cheap wrench and cut it down so it fits. The 951 exhaust definitely tests your patience! Keep at it you will get it!

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

the 951 exhaust is an art form. I can do it in my sleep now I've done so many.

the bottom bolt on the exhaust manifold is accessed by removing the carbs on the carb engine or i assume the intakes on your engine. then you have more than enough room to swing an open ended 15mm.

the stinger side takes a few steps, and a very specific order to get everything tight and reachable. it can be done

a metric allen socket set with a 1/4" drive is your friend. Also pickup a 2" and 6" extensions for them.

 

[rjcress]

the 951 exhaust is an art form. I can do it in my sleep now I've done so many.

Yeah, I assume that I'm making all of the rookie mistakes and doing everything the hard way.

the bottom bolt on the exhaust manifold is accessed by removing the carbs on the carb engine or i assume the intakes on your engine. then you have more than enough room to swing an open ended 15mm.

Aside from dropping the nut and eventually having to unbolt the negative starter cable in order to have room to squeeze my lubed hand under the engine to get it, that was one of only 3 fasteners on the whole exhaust that I actually was able to tighten without too much drama. (the other 2 were the top, aft bolt on the exhaust manifold to pipe, and the big ring that joins the pipe to the stinger)

the stinger side takes a few steps, and a very specific order to get everything tight and reachable. it can be done

I certainly appreciate the tips... but sure wish you would tell what the tricks are. As frustrated as I am, hearing that there are a few steps that must be done in a very specific order... but not being given a clue as to what those steps are or the proper order... lets just say that adds to the frustration. I'm sure you've written them already, but I didn't have any luck finding them with the forum's outstandingly awesome search function.

a metric allen socket set with a 1/4" drive is your friend. Also pickup a 2" and 6" extensions for them.

Thanks. I'll pick those up right away. The 3/8" allen socket set is just too big around for many of the available recesses that the fasteners are hidden in.

 

[rjcress]

What I did was go to harbor freight and buy a cheap wrench and cut it down so it fits. The 951 exhaust definitely tests your patience! Keep at it you will get it!

That is exactly what I was thinking I would have to resort to.

 

[rjcress]

Hang the engine by the hole in the top of the exhaust manifold. That's how it sits in the hull, and how it's meant to be suspended. I use a pull pall and small S metal clip.

Dang it! I had not even noticed that hole until you mentioned it. I'm sure it would have gone in much more smoothly that way. I guess that is what I get for letting over 1/2 a year pass between when I removed the engine and when I started putting it back in.

The color of your exhaust manifolds would indicate the engine was overheated at some point.

Interesting. Chalk another issue up to my Brother in Law. He must have cooked it when he blew the engine up. It never had any other issues... at all. I mean, I read about all the trouble some folks have with DIs and am surprised at how flawlessly this one ran... until BiL got ahold of it. I expect tons of stuff to break, now that I said that.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Sorry; I don't mean to mention the correct way, then not list it, but yea, I've written it before. I guess this winter I will work on that 951 site I've always been mulling over. I do get tired of writing the same stuff over and over.

superglue the washer to the nut for the exhaust manifold. that way you don't drop the washer.

it's been a few months since I've done an exhaust, however I think I remember you attach the bracket to the stinger, then get 1 bolt in the bracket to the engine, then remove the bolt from the stinger, install the 2nd bolt into the bracket, and finally install the bolt to the stinger. that lets you get all 3 bolts in tightly.

also, joining the pipe 1/2s... that's the REAL fun