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Please HELP!! new member looking at 951 di

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1996 12 valve

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Hello I am looking at buying an 03 seadoo xpdi. The owner says that it will not rev past 3500 rpm. He claims that he thinks it is in limp mode, but I don't know much about these skis. But I am on a budget and am pretty handy so I thought it might be a good opportunity, I know nothing can be known for sure without diagnosis, but are there any ideas? Also, what type of things should I look at and check as I consider buying this ski. Thank you very much in advance! Also wondering if these are decently reliable skis
 
Hi & welcome to the forum.

I'm not even close to an "expert" but from what I've read in here DI is an awesome motor when running right but very hard to diagnose a problem and very expensive to fix.
Ask him what he was doing on it when it went into "so called" limp mode. Maybe it's overheating which may mean a blockage somewhere, maybe not getting enough fuel.

Just wait a bit and some one with DI knowledge will chime in.
 
I assume you are talking about this

http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/boa/4758346973.html

I personally would not spend more than $700 on it. Although running fine it would fetch close to 3k after rewrapping the seat and buffing it.

I saw that a while back, looks like it has been up for 2 months now so you could probably get it cheap. Last week would have been perfect. A little spending money before xmas lol.
 
With a DI you WILL have to buy a CanDoo programmer so add another $400 to your budget.

This is really the ONLY method of solving DI issues. And taking it one visit to a dealer would equal
Half of a CanDoo
 
Yes that is the one, I had seen it for awhile also, however it is a little sketchy being the guy told me he bought it this way and put a new battery in it and parked it. I dont want to miss a good opportunity, but also dont want to inherit a bunch of problems that is a money pit
 
Skip the DI. Electrical issues will bankrupt you.

I have a 2000 GTX 951 carb, and 2000 XP 951 carb, on a double trailer, for sale.

I was going to wait until spring to post them, but if your looking I can send pics.

The GTX has new carbs, and the engine in the XP was just done by SES this summer.

I replaced fuel lines on both. And new (not repaired) fuel level sensors on both.

I'm selling to save for my Tesla... (Seriously). The wife's decided I don't need four jet skis.
 
Sbt, ses, fullbore. They all rebuild motors. You send them your motor and you get a rebuilt one back. Installation is pretty easy. Even if you do not have the cash now you maybe able to get that for $350 and then save up the $1000 for the motor. Plus the carb models are easier to work on. That puts you right about the $1300 mark. It would be worth $2500-$3000 easy, so you would be getting it for half of what you would see them for in the summer, plus you have a year warranty on the motor.
 
It's a 2-stroke, so the first thing you want to do is check the compression!!! A perfect condition DI 951 can blow 140~145psi, 130~135 probably isn't terribly bad for a used engine and still has a few hours of life remaining.

Sometimes you can find a ski that hasn't had the dog pee ridden out of it, they're still our there.

Be prepared to spend some additional coin though if it's well worn, the DI is a sweet running engine when it's right but to get there it can bleed you good.

Jetskigoodies is a guy you should consider listening to, the 951 DI will need overhaul somewhere around a few hundred hours so one strategy is to price that in from the beginning.
 
All the advice given is really good. I personally own 2 DI skis and love them. I also have owned several carbed skis before making the jump to DI's.
If it were me, I would go the carb route first before jumping into the DI world. You will gain knowledge and experience.

If you do go the DI route, I would not give more that $700 for the ski only after I performed a compression test. 140 - 145psi for DI's 130 - 135psi for carbed 951's.
The chances are good that it is the rectifier, but I am only guessing until a proper diagnostic can be performed.

Electronics on DI's will bankrupt you, if you start throwing parts at it trying to fix the problem without a proper diagnosis. Happens a lot.
 
Ok i appreciate all the input. Can anyone give me all of the exact tools i will need to do the compression test, the ski is a bit of a drive for me so i need to be sure to take all needed tools
 
$500 isn't bad for that XP. but as a rule I don't buy them engine out. If it was blown and still in, I might as I have a ready to run 951 laying around. I hate it when other people take them apart. I separate sections into bags, know the correct tools and steps for each part. Other people rip them out and toss everything in one box. I had a guy take apart the freaking ebox for no reason. Ohh I can't get the pipe off, so I'll just unscrew the head?! Ugh. Not worth the hassle. Some of us can swap an engine in under a day, but if your just getting into this sport, buy a working ski... You don't want the hassle. I used to buy and build 951s, but the market seems ever shrinking and profits too small now.
 
* You'll need a good battery that can spin the motor over properly (never jump start a Seadoo or you risk damaging the voltage sensitive computer!)
* A spark plug wrench to remove the plugs for the compression test.
* A compression test gauge, expect to pay at least $30 for a half decent one at Sears, Harbor Freight, NAPA or FLAP(Favorite Local Auto Parts) and check it's calibrated by comparison using compressed air and a known good gauge to measure the air pressure. You do have an air compressor, right?

The compression test gauge should be the type with hose that screws into the spark plug hole. Ground both plug wires while performing the test to avoid damaging the ignition coils or igniting gasoline vapors that might be trapped low in the bilge, there are two grounding posts on the black plastic box that houses the ignition coils, so use them. Hold the throttle wide open while cranking the engine over, stop cranking once the gauge stops moving up the scale to obtain the result on the gauge face.
 
Other people rip them out and toss everything in one box. I had a guy take apart the freaking ebox for no reason. Ohh I can't get the pipe off, so I'll just unscrew the head?! Ugh. Not worth the hassle

I think they toss the bolts and fasteners straight into the garbage can or throw them across the garage and under the bench. Then during assembly reach for whatever SAE bolt they can cross thread into the hole, or often one that's too short to grab more than a few threads or too long so it bottoms into the blind hole before serving it's intended purpose.

These are the motors that are "worked on" or rather, worked over by a previous owner although I've seen this sloppy work come from too many other shops as well, ASE Certification my ass.
 
I have to thank 1996 12 valve. In searching for seadoos for you in your area, I found this beauty.

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Best part of this is it came with a rebuilt motor with paperwork from east coast cycle in PA. It also came with an oem cover.


He paid a local guy to remove the motor and then when it came back from the shop to put everything back in. The local guy took his money pulled the motor and then never finished it. I looked down the manifold and the pistons are new and the jugs bored. I am going to pull the reeds to look at it more. I should be able to see the crank just fine. However the guy seemed like a genuine honest guy and he has all the paper work, receipts, even the shipping receipts from fedex.

So I am confident it will all be good.
 
The xp i looked at today makes noise when you hit start and you have to keep trying it to get it to finally crank. But its making a noise when you hit the button. Any ideas? Starter?
 
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