Oil comes out the back when I start it on the trailer???

[s10gmconversion]

You really should hook them up to the oil tank.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I'm guessing I better run a line to loop it??

Whatever you want to call it, loop or hula-hoop. The rotary valve cavity must be kept full of oil, no air inside, two oil lines are necessary and the air must be bled out and oil level kept full. This requires oil in the oil tank, not much if any oil from the tank should be consumed if the crank seals are leak free.

 

[Grimreaper]

There is a line from the oil tank that goes somewhere under the exhaust. I can't see where it would connect to.

 

[Grimreaper]

Just so I'm clear. Regardless if the oil tank was bypassed previously and I've been using premix to run, the oil tank and lines need to be hooked up as usual and the oil tank full??

 

[s10gmconversion]

Correct....

 

[Grimreaper]

Okay!!! I can do that.....can I use black fuel lines, I have a lot of that left over. Here is a picture of the top of the oil tank, not sure where that line goes, somewhere under what I would call the exhaust manifold.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

On the bottom of the oil tank is a grommet into which a red 2 outlet nipple goes through. I think the top outlet goes to the oil pump (which is plugged if running premix)...the bottom nipple leads to the side oil nipple on the motor...keep this line attached...Actually it doesn't matter which nipple goes where.
Keep the line on the top of tank attached also...that leads to the bottom of motor.

 

[Grimreaper]

Looks like my oil tank has two nipples on bottom. One closer to the motor than the other. I believe the closest one goes to the pump and the further one goes to the bottom of the motor, correct?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Looks like my oil tank has two nipples on bottom. One closer to the motor than the other. I believe the closest one goes to the pump and the further one goes to the bottom of the motor, correct?

I strongly recommend changing the seals on the bottom of the oil tank. The fail all the time which drips oil into the hull. Since you are there, doing it now would be much easier than later. You know, right after you discover oil in the hull. ;-)

 

[AdamXP800]

Coastie is spot on, I fought a leaky grommet for an entire season

 

[Coastiejoe]

Coastie is spot on, I fought a leaky grommet for an entire season

Everybody fights them. To much of a PITA to change when it full of oil and in the middle of the season. LOL.

I'm getting married on Friday. This will probably be the last time I am right. ;-)

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Yes change the grommet....I've had a slow leak and the new grommet corrected it.

This may help you.
Elbow #23 is to the carbs & #12 is to the motor case.

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...doopwc&a=276&b=15&c=0&d=-OIL-INJECTION-SYSTEM

Go to top of page and click on "PARTS" then find your ski/boat for many diagrams.

 

[Grimreaper]

Working on it now. Will black fuel lines be okay for this or should I get clear tube type lines, like the ones that were on it.

 

[Grimreaper]

Looks like I would have had them backwards, thanks!!