1997 Seadoo GTX Regulator Questions

[Codestin55]

Okay here’s my long shot. I bought a 1997 GSX and GTX a couple weeks ago to work on and learn on (motorcycle mechanic of 9+ years). Full rebuilt the engine on the GTX and the carb. Took it out twice this week and it ran good besides a weird hesitation. The machine wouldn’t rev out fully unless you let off throttle and then punched it again but plugs looked fine and never bogged down and died out just seemed to not want to fully hit on the power. Well I took the carbs out and double checked pop off ect made sure everything was rebuilt with OEM Mikuni parts. Took it out yesterday and it started up great and idled perfect. Took it slowly out past the no wake and went to take off and it died twice. Finally got it started up and got it going (had to do the weird throttle release and punch deal) anyways got it about 100 yards at wide open and it completely died like no lights on the dash ect. Immediately opened the coil box and saw the 15amp fuse blown. Towed the ski out put it on the trailer and didn’t touch it till that night. Well I put a new 15amp fuse in and still dead. Figured I’d check power fuse on the MPEM and the 5 amp was blown. Replaced both of those and it started first crank on the trailer. Ran it about 10seconds and it was fine. Came out this morning and it started right up no issues. So my question is what would cause this. Right now everything I’ve read is seemingly glaring to me that it’s a regulator rectifier issue but I wanted to get any second thoughts. It’s my understanding that if an over voltage situation happened from both ends of the rectifier the front 5amp and rear 15amp would be the first thing to go. Also I hold make sense why it acts so weird despite the fuel system being completely gone through. Anyways I wanted to grab you’re thoughts before I order a new regulator.

 

[lavasioux]

Hi,

Interesting symptoms.

To check the regulator I simply attach a volt meter to the battery and then watch it as I start the engine-

It should dip.down while cranking and then raise up to 13.5 and above with revving.
If it does that then the regulator is working.

Good luvk!

 

[artr]

To check the regulator I simply attach a volt meter to the battery and then watch it as I start the engine-

It should dip.down while cranking and then raise up to 13.5 and above with revving.

That is a good test but if the regulator gets above 14V (the actual max voltage is in the shop manual) then it's a problem and should be replaced.
Another test is to make sure your battery is charged and disconnect the red lead from the regulator and take a ride for 10 minutes to see if the problem does not happen. When the regulator fails I have read they let AC voltage through which causes problems. Don't ride too long because the battery will not be charging.

 

[Grim]

You need to rev it up to 4500 RPM and check that voltage too, it should be high 13V into the 14V range, if it get much higher that about 14.7 ish t then it is bad.

At idle it should be in the low 13V range, may a tad under at worst.