Oil Change

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d21skycop

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I recently purchased a Seadoo GTI SE 130. I took the PWC in for the 10 hour oil change and check up. The dealer charged me $186 for an oil change. Is it possible for me to do my own oil changes and is it a simple task or does it require aolt of expensive tools to accomplish?

Thanks,

D21skycop
 
Here is the info on the oil change. If you still need info let me know. I own a 200 speedster 310 hp.
Here are the part numbers you need to change the oil and filter in ALL 4-tec engines.
(3) "O" rings
1)420320920-$7.25
2)420850500-$8.99
3)420950860-$2.20

Oil filter /I use a K&N off their website.
1)KN556-$12.95

Oil 10w40 Mineral Oil from seadoo#219700346-$6.50 a qt.
Be sure you use 10w40, marine 4 stroke Oil, with a API of SL, SJ or SN.
You need 3 L or 2.7 us quarts with filter for oil change.

Oil extractor from West Marine. Company Tempo, Part# 170200 Model# OB5 Retails about $50.00.
Change the oil when it is warm. Rev the engine to 4,000 rpm for 10 sec. and shut off at this rpm. This moves all the oil from the pto housing to the oil tank for maximum draining. Remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick. Insert the extractor tube in the dipstick 18.7 inches from the top of the dipstick pipe. Wrap tape around the tube to be sure it is in that deep. Next, extract the oil from the dipstick. (on pwc models only, the next step applies)When no more oil is extracted, pull the tube out of the dipstick hole and crank the engine(do not start) while the engine is in drown mode(fully depress the throttle lever, or on Jet Boats grab the throttle cable linkage at the throttle body and HOLD it open than crank the engine, get a friend to help)
Crank the engine for 10 seconds, Extract oil again, repeat crank extract 2-3 more times.
Keep track of how much oil you extract and add what you removed.

You will need a E-10 star socket or a 8mm,(6pt) socket to remove the oil filter cap. There are 3 "O" rings in the filter cap area if they are damaged change them. Check level, and go have fun. I hope this info helps.

Karl
 
Hey Karl,

Thank you for the great post. You wouldn't happen to have those oring sizes would you?

Thanks again
 
I have spears in my tool box, but I haven't measured them. You might be able to match them up when you do a filter change. I know the "0" rings are expensive, but are only worth about $.25.:ack: :rofl:

Karl
 
Sea-doo has actually came out with a "maintanence kit" this past year. It includes 1 gallon of 4 stroke xps oil, 1 seadoo oil filter, 3 spark plugs, 2 o rings, and instructions that basically say the same thing that kustomkarl just said. I am not sure why it only comes with 2 o rings but I have found that the other one is usually in good condition. You can find this info on seadoo website under their products. And I know you can find this online for about 55 with shipping, which is a great deal in my opinion.
 
Warranty caution....

I recently purchased a Seadoo GTI SE 130. I took the PWC in for the 10 hour oil change and check up. The dealer charged me $186 for an oil change. Is it possible for me to do my own oil changes and is it a simple task or does it require aolt of expensive tools to accomplish?

Thanks,

D21skycop

Yes, the price for the 10 hour check up is outrageous. But, that's where they have your butt in a sling.

The reason? You have to do what ever is called for by your warranty. When the warranty is up, then have at it. Remember, a warranty is like insurance and if you do anything that the policy writer can use agains't you to keep from paying for expensive parts.

I have been very much preaching about this since working with 4 members this season who got screwed by BRP for them either allowing an un-qualified mechanic (not represented by BRP) to work on their ski, causing a SCIC failure and another member who had a crack in a coil, that was noted by BRP in a memo that was sent out to all dealers. When his dealer was unable to find the problem, he did and when approached BRP, they would not reimburse him for the part because he pulled it out. So, now his ski runs but he had to foot the bill. He's also working with the better business bureau at the moment.

My point is, please read your warranty and do not give them any chance at all to screw you out of what is due you from a fault that is not of your own.:cheers:
 
I'm looking for oil for my 07 challenger 180se with a 215hp engine. The recommended oil is P/N 219700346 ... which I have been using, but now, I cant find it. What is the replacement P/N for oil? Thanks
 
Xps...

This past year, BRP actually came out with semi-synthetic oil that is usable in all the 4-TEC engines, even the supercharged.

The only supercharged engine I would not run this in, would be the ones still using the ceramic slip washers.

Check with your nearest distributer for the XPS summer grade semi synthetic oils. It would def be the best oil offered by BRP.

Now, if you'd like to spend a tad bit more money, for an oil that is tried and true, go to the Amsoil website and look up your oil by make, year and engine model. If your still unsure, you can phone in and talk to a representative.

Amsoil has been a sponsored distributer of race oils for a long time. They also have their own research and development engineers to help you decide what forumula is best for your application.

I personally do not use this oil and don't recommend it for the 2 stroke engines. Only because there are so many good, synthectic oils on the market for the Rotax 2 stroke, that I do not see a need to promote any other oil brand.

The best part with the Amsoil, you can order it by quantity and not have to worry about where your going to get oil later in the season, you'll have the address as to where to get it.

Also, if you look around, you may find the Amsoil sold locally. My opinion of this oil is from the testimony of other members and they swear by it. I have never heard of anyone coming in after running Amsoil and find they had any kind of major engine failure. So, to make sure you always have a good supply of oil on hand, maybe you should look into ordering a bulk quantity of the Amsoil brand oil............:cheers:
 
Here are the 3 o-ring sizes for the 4tecs

1-
0 series o-ring
Size 036, I.D-2.364"; Gland thickness-.070"

2-
100 series o-ring
Size 143, I.D-2.425"; Gland thickness-.103"

3-
200 series o-ring
Size 203, I.D-.296"; Gland thickness-.139"


You can now buy them for a couple of dollars instead of 20.00
 
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Being a toolmaker/engineer I have an oring gage that you put them on that measures them.

http://www.manuf-rubber.com/sizing_gauges.html

You can mic them or caliper them for the gland thickness size. You learn the "touch".

Diameter wise, the thicker gland smaller diameter sizes you can caliper for size. It is when you have the thinner series where the diameter starts getting bigger that you need the gage. That start getting very flimsey and unmeasurable.
 
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