new to forum and just bought a used 01 gs

[floatingRyan]

You guys are awesome... i will check for the green goo when i get a couple of nice days too mess around(garage is full of crap right now)... and that list of things is very helpful... again apologize for the noobish questions but im more of computer nerd than a mechanic, though ive always liked taking things apart and putting them back together

 

[floatingRyan]

Here is a start.

Fuel System
-20 of 1/4" fuel line BLACK (any auto store, does not have to be fuel injection line)
-25 ish SS hose clamps to fit. Unless the ones in there are in good shape
-Fuel selector switch. Or you can try cleaning the old one, but there not that much $
I would suggest at minimum to change the filter in the carb and clean them. They were just rebuilt so the other parts in there should be fine.

If your fuel gauge is not functioning this would be a good time to fix it, usually a cheap or free fix.

Oil system
If the lines are old and still have the white paint on them, change them as well.
-4 ish ft of 3/32 tygon oil line and some good quality small zip ties
-oil filter 275 000 051
check the condition of your other oil lines and clamps, the bigger ones dont breakdown as much as those small ones.

Ok, I'm looking at the exploded parts view. You mentioned the filter in the carb which appears to be part number 270500115. What about the other fuel filter assembly(275500089), should that be replaced as well? Also, i notice that the watercraftsuperstore people sell blue fuel line. Are there any potential issues with that as it looks somewhat translucent?


Again, thanks for the help

 

[kicker]

275500089 is the water separator screen that is in the front compartment by you steering mechanism. You can check it before you buy one, if the screen is in good shape just clean it up along with the fuel bowl and it will be fine. The bowl will have an O ring on it be sure it is good and seals properly, if bad it will cause an air leak. I usually just order the whole kit.

Translucent lines aren't an issue, as long as they are rated for fuel/oil. I have heard of guys getting a hard time from the authorities for not having proper fire resistant and colored lines, if your concerned about it you will have to track down the regulations in your area.

Most guys will add an inline filter 10-12" before the carbs to catch the smaller particles. For the $5 it is great insurance.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?33749-How-To-Adding-an-in-line-filter

270500115 is the correct part for the internal carb filter. Here is a pic where it goes.

 

[floatingRyan]

Ok, and i suppose this falls into a "it depends" type of question. But assuming the carb has already been rebuilt, am i going to have to replace any gaskets or anything when i take it off to replace the internal filter? I'd rather place one order for stuff than 2.

 

[ski-d00]

those are the original fuel lines and need replaced.

most of the time, you don't really need to "rebuild" your carbs and in many cases it causes more issues than it helps if incorrect cheaper replacement parts are used. however, you do need to disassemble and clean the carbs thoroughly and normally all gaskets can be reused without any problems if care is taken when removed. so, total cost is normally only a couple cans of carb cleaner. the filters also don't need replaced, only cleaned thoroughly.

 

[floatingRyan]

Here is a start.

Fuel System
-20 of 1/4" fuel line BLACK (any auto store, does not have to be fuel injection line)
-25 ish SS hose clamps to fit. Unless the ones in there are in good shape
-Fuel selector switch. Or you can try cleaning the old one, but there not that much $
I would suggest at minimum to change the filter in the carb and clean them. They were just rebuilt so the other parts in there should be fine.

If your fuel gauge is not functioning this would be a good time to fix it, usually a cheap or free fix.

Oil system
If the lines are old and still have the white paint on them, change them as well.
-4 ish ft of 3/32 tygon oil line and some good quality small zip ties
-oil filter 275 000 051
check the condition of your other oil lines and clamps, the bigger ones dont breakdown as much as those small ones.

I wasn't going to worry about the fuel guage but now I'm curious, what would I have to do to it for it to be a "free" fix? I'm not too overly concerned but I got all the fuel line and stuff so now my inner desire to not do things halfway is bugging me.

Also, for those that might be curious about taking stickers off as I was here is what worked. A razor, a hair drier, and Goo Gone. But this Goo Gone was different than crap that I had used in the past as it was a spray on Goo Gone Gel. Not sure where my wife found it but I left that soak on there after removing the letters and then used a kitchen sponge. There is still some light ghosting but it got most of it off. I can tell it's there but most that won't be able to tell.

 

[kicker]

The free fix would be if the F1 fuse is blow inside the baffle. Cut a square hole in the side of the baffle just below the first rib and find the small fuse and put take that fuse out and just lay a bead of soldier in its place. The fuse is not needed and corrodes not letting the gauge get a reading from the fuel float. To check the fuse make sure your fuel float is in the baffle and put a ohmn meter on the to wire to check the resistance. As the float slides you should get reading from 2.2 (full) to 90(empty). No readings means the fuse is toast. Here is a thread on the subject.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...ght-on-when-tank-is-full-(fuel-baffle-sender)

It is also possible that the fuel float is sinking because it is waterlogged. This is very common. The float has more then likely fallen to the bottom of the tank, fish it out along with the screen on the bottom of the baffle and check to see if it floats in gas (not water). To replace is a about $15. It will look like on of these.



Here is where the fuse goes.

 

[floatingRyan]

Update, i had a nonraining day today so i got to work on this a bit. My fuel lines are in fact tempo. after taking the flame arrestor off i could find one occurence of the word tempo and wouldnt you know it was right on one of the carb nipples. There was a little of the green goo on the outside of the nipples but internally the carb looks pretty clean except for one gasket that looks kind of crappy in that it srarting to get some calcium looking deposits on it. All the rest look good though. The internal filter isnt filled with the green goo either but i think i will replace it rather than clean as it looks to have seen better days. Hardest part of the whole ordeal so far was figuring out how to disconnect all the cables from the carb. If anybody else is new to this, take the bracket off the carb and then you can get the cables off of their catches. Much easier and you dont have to worry about jacking up any adjustments. Thanks for all your help and suggestions guys.

 

[Coastiejoe]

The grey tempo lines are a killer. Can be labor intensive to do all that is required now that you know you have them. But,,, it must be done.


Repairing and selling iPads, iPhones and Mini iPads.

 

[floatingRyan]

Ok, i have the fuel lines all changed out and the carbs put back together. I have one question though. On the cable that connects the carb to the oil pump shown here, how much slack should be sticking out of the cable. In other words should there be slack between the end of the cable or not. When i put it all back together i ended up with slack between the end of the cable and the nut even though i have the nut assembled the same way. Is it possible that i am missing a catch somewhere that the cable needs to run through? It is the one thing that I didn't get a good picture of prior to taking it apart so i am unsure. I can't find reference to this in the shop manual unless i am looking in the wrong place. Thanks in advance for all of your advice.

 

[floatingRyan]

Nevermind, did some more searching and it looks like when we took the cable off by way of the nut on the carb the arm of the oil pump rotated so accorging to another thread it sounds like i need to rotate it 1 turn counter clockwise to get it back to normal

 

[kicker]

Sounds like you got it figured out.
But just to be sure, you have to rotate that arm on the pump so that there is some tension on it and then hook up the cable. Once the cable is hooked up look for the notches as in the picture and align them using the adjustment screws on the carb end of the cable.

 

[floatingRyan]

Got it all back together tonight and got it running. Very excited. Having done any carb work i was a bit nervous but i read a ton on here and got through it. The fuel lines are all new now except for the air vent ones as I didnt really see the point and they were the most difficult ones to reach. The hardest part was getting gas to flow through the new lines and new inline filter. I tried the premix method in the plug holes but that didnt work for me. I syphoned down to the new filter thinki g the motor would pull through the rest of the way but no dice there either... what ultimately worked was taking the return line off the carb and blowing air through it. One i did that i was golden. Hopefully this can help so.e other newb like me. Thanks again for all the help guys... i owe several of you guys a beer if you are ever in the area

 

[floatingRyan]

Just an update that I got the ski out on Monday and it ran like a dream. Much faster than I thought it would be, started easily, and overall was fun to ride. Even caught a little bit of air after running into some choppy waves at full speed. As of now it seems plenty fast enough for me with 85 horsepower. I know the newer stuff has a lot more power but based on most of my riding be in lake erie I think conditions limit the ability to run wide open on some of the supercharged stuff. Just my thought... thanks again to all on here that helped point me in the right direction on this.

 

[kicker]

Well done, glad to hear it all worked out...........enjoy!

 

[Coastiejoe]

Congrats on getting it all back together and running.

Ome of the key advantages of the SC'd skis is the IMMEDIATE performance you get. I can be going 5 mph and take of up a rolling wave and be at 20 mph before i leave the wave. Equates to some nice air time.... Ask me how I know...

 

[floatingRyan]

Ha ha, I have ridden a SC'd ski before on a couple of occassions. According to the speedometer it was going 70. That was on a private man-made lake without a lot of traffic. Maybe I'm too new to this whole thing yet, but I just don't see going that fast in a more crowded area with less calm water. So for a guy like me who just wants to go blow off some steam and take the kids out for a ride, 40-50mph will work just fine.

While I'm at it, I'll ask one more newb question. With the reserve tank, how does the gas get there? Is there a trickle hole in the bottom of the main tank? Should I periodically run on the reserve tank just to keep it from all being "old gas"? Again, still new to this and figuring out things as I go.

 

[Mekanix]

Its all one tank, No separate tank

At the bottom of the fuel pickup tube in the tank there are two tubes.

Main stop's about 4 inches from the bottom and the RES goes all the way to the bottom of the unit.

I know what your going through. Doing the same things right now

Have to say the guys have you right on top of everything though.. Cudo's !

One thing no one mentioned I think is the battery box. What happened to that looks like it exploded.


While your improving things, take the cap off the electrical box and change the bolt that holds the coil on. That's the one on the bottom that usually corrodes and then you loose those crucial connections.

Check your motor mounts to see if any of them are broken. You can push on the motor and see if one of them has lifted off the base. I've seen the Right rear break off of mine.

 

[floatingRyan]

Cool, i figure everybody is new once so there isn't a whole lot of shame in asking dumb questions at times. The fuel tank makes sense now. I'll have to look into the bolt that holds the coil on as i hadn't looked at that. As far as motor mounts go i think those are ok as i had already tried shoving the motor around to make sure there wasn't any movement and it seems ok. As for the battery box, your guess is as good as mine. There are some jagged pieces of it still there but most of it isn't there. My guess is somebody went to yank the battery at some point and inadvertently broke it. Somebody made a pull strap that holds it in there for now. I've been looking at coming up with something better or just replacing the box. It looks like there are some on ebay but I don't know if those things get brittle with age or not and thus in 2 months i have the same problem.

 

[Mekanix]

I dont think they get brittle. But you might want to ask people here if there are any for sale.near you.
I get my hard to find stuff from Minnetonka. He has just about everything.

 

[floatingRyan]

Ok, now have some oil/oil line related questions. I've run this for a total of about an hour on the oil that was in the tank when I got it as it was full. I haven't had any issue or anything but I couldn't get a hold of the previous owner to see what particular type of oil he had run. While doing the fuel lines I had picked up a gallon of XPS mineral at a dealer as I wanted to make some premix for helping to prime the fuel lines. The oil that is in there looks similar to the XPS mineral as it looks a similar color of brown and doesn't look to be blue or purple or anything that the synthetics use. I've read through some other posts and what not but I'm just not 100% clear on the right thing to do. I've read where you shouldn't mix oils because it can clog the filters. I get that, but if I change the filter should I change all of the lines as well? The smaller line on the carb seems fine as it was plyable and had no cracks or anything. All of the other lines seem to be in good shape with no leaking or anything.

All that being said
1. Can I drain the tank and change the filter and be good to go or do i have to change all the lines as well? Meaning the line on the carb, and all of the others.
2. For future reference, looks like most say to change the filter after every season, do you have to bleed the lines even if just swapping the filter?
3. Assuming I change all of the oil lines, are there any gotcha's that I should be aware of? I've read through the manual and they talk about priming the lines and such but I figured I would ask if there was anything else that comes up that I should be aware of.

Thanks for the help as always.