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New from East Texas

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Stayne said:
Bought some clear fuel line (the small one from the back of the carb to the top). When I squeeze the throttle it inches up and doesn't spray just barely drips. There is another thing on the back of the carb that the throttle links to that also pumps gas up. Neither sends up enough to keep it running. Video coming in a few after I gather up enough oompf.
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don't throw away the old line from the accel pump! there is sometimes a restrictor in there to slow down the refill of the accel pump so that if you hit the throttle several times it doesn't flood the motor with a full squirt every time. if the fuel pump is working properly, there will be enough positive pressure on the feed side of the accel pump that when the pump is pressed it squirts fuel out the little jet in the carb inlet. looking at your video it looks like someone has tried to disable the accel pump by adjusting the linkage so that it doesn't meddle in the tuning.

the pulse line will usually have crap in it as it is a line directly to the crankcase.

are you getting the carb to pull fuel from the tank when cranking or were you just talking about the accel pump?

like i said, you need to open up the other side of the carb to get to the jets and especially the needle and seat, and you need a pop off pump to properly test the setting on the needle and seat.

the linkage you asked about at the end of the video would normally go to the oil pump, but someone probably has either removed or disabled it on your ski, so good idea using premix. is there oil in the oil tank to make sure that the rotary valve shaft is lubricated?

tell you what, send me a PM, I might have some time next week to clean up your carb and get it set up in the ballpark so that you can get running, assuming your fuel pump is working so it can pull fuel from the tank. my bet is the fueling side of the carb is gunked up so the needle won't ever open, so you're not flowing fuel through the ports, which are probably also plugged up.
 
I can't use that line, it's old and brittle. When I pulled that line off it broke at the nipple and I had to scrape the old rubber off.

I pulled the pulse line off the carb and turned the engine over until that tan wet clay looking stuff stopped coming out. There wasn't much. I'm guessing like you said it's old water + oil and was sitting at the bottom of the engine.

I did notice that the accel pump seems to be trying to work but it's almost as if there's an air leak somewhere. When I pump it by hand I can hear what sounds like air. As you can see in the video working that accel pump doesn't send fuel up hardly at all and there are air bubbles in the fuel that I can see through that clear hose.
 
The accel pump wont really work well until your actual carb fuel pump is working. If you take off the return line off the carb and try starting it, does fuel come out of the carb where the line was connected? Do you have a hand held vacuum pump like this one from harbor freight? http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html (if not get one) if so, remove the return line from the carb and connect a hose up the carb there. Then pull a vacuum until you get fuel all the way to the vacuum pump. Then hook it up and try to start it again.
 
for the time being, i wouldn't worry too much about that accel pump for the time being, the low speed needle and pop off can be set so that it isn't needed, and you can even just remove it if you want. as long as its moving some fuel now, its probably ok, and will work fine once the carb is getting fuel like it should.

one more thing from your video: it appears that you have a different kind of switch wired up for the lanyard switch. normally it would be like the one i posted a couple pages back that the key would hold down the switch, then when the key is pulled off, it kills the engine.

also you have the batter and electrical box flipped, the battery goes down in the bottom, then the box goes on top, and you tighten it down with wing nuts on the pieces of threaded rod
 
soccerdad said:
The accel pump wont really work well until your actual carb fuel pump is working. If you take off the return line off the carb and try starting it, does fuel come out of the carb where the line was connected? Do you have a hand held vacuum pump like this one from harbor freight? http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html (if not get one) if so, remove the return line from the carb and connect a hose up the carb there. Then pull a vacuum until you get fuel all the way to the vacuum pump. Then hook it up and try to start it again.
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also use the choke!
 
Welp I held the choke and it seems to suck fuel better than way (for obvious reasons). I can see tiny droplets spray out once in a while. It started...and I could rev it but it idles insanely high, smokes like a flippin mosquito wagon and I'm not sure which screw is the idle screw. Then it died. Tried a few more times and got some revs but it's still sick as a dog. Gave up because the battery is too low to continue and it's about to storm.
 
Progress! It likely has a bunch of oil in the bottom end from the crank seals. It should idle at about 3000 RPM out of the water. The idle screw just pushes on the arm that the cable connects to. It is on the throttle shaft. Just run it for 30 seconds or so at a time so you do not mess up the carbon drive shaft seal (if it has one) or get the motor too hot.
 
soccerdad said:
Progress! It likely has a bunch of oil in the bottom end from the crank seals. It should idle at about 3000 RPM out of the water. The idle screw just pushes on the arm that the cable connects to. It is on the throttle shaft. Just run it for 30 seconds or so at a time so you do not mess up the carbon drive shaft seal (if it has one) or get the motor too hot.
Click to expand...

Should have a carrier bearing seal, but the fsm even says to limit run time out of the water to keep the bearing from overheating.
 
Two questions:

1) I'm using premix but still understand there needs to be oil in the oil tank. What kind?

2) What is the ratio for premix and what is the best 2 stroke oil to use?
 
supposed to smoke that much? yep, especially since its been sitting

first, the carbs need the flame arrestor in place to have the proper amount of vacuum to get the needle to open and flow fuel

second, read the carb sticky thread.

third, read the carb sticky thread.

fourth, the carb needs to be gone through for real and setup correctly or you're just going to burn the motor up if you get it to run well enough to ride it around. seriously. these engines/carbs don't just fix themselves by running them, if theres something wrong, it will not get better on its own. you've established that the engine is in good enough condition to justify some work on the carb and fixing up the fuel and oil system.
 
If you are implying that I plan to get it idling so I can ride it that is not my goal. I want to at least get it to idle so I can send off the carb. I know there is more work than that to do. Just making 100% sure it's worth it to continue. Like I said initially I only paid $175 for it and the trailer. I don't know which manual to get as everything seems pieced together over the years. I'm just going to have to get one manual per part.
 
Stayne said:
If you are implying that I plan to get it idling so I can ride it that is not my goal. I want to at least get it to idle so I can send off the carb. I know there is more work than that to do. Just making 100% sure it's worth it to continue. Like I said initially I only paid $175 for it and the trailer. I don't know which manual to get as everything seems pieced together over the years. I'm just going to have to get one manual per part.
Click to expand...

the reason it won't idle is because the carb needs to be worked on. you've checked the compression at 150 psi, and it'll run with premix poured down the carb, thats all i had to go on with my gtx and when the carbs came back, it fired up as soon as the fuel got to the carbs.

as for the manual, download the one for your year ski. the only things from later skis are the handlebar pad and the carb, the carb info in the stickied thread pertains to the type of carb you have rather than what that ski would have come with anyways.
 
Tilted it back this weekend on the trailer to dump some rainwater from the sides and some black oil came glooping out the back. I'm taking a break from this lol.
 
IF you are getting a bunch of black goo out of the exhaust when you tip it back it is probably the needle and seat sticking flooding it out and dumping a ton of fuel in.

DO NOT give up at this point!

You have already determined:
1. It runs.
2. Has good compression.
3. Fuel system works.
4. Electrical system works.

At this point all that is left is to rebuild the carb.

You are at the last step, get the carb rebuilt and have fun!
 
I agree!!!

mikidymac said:
IF you are getting a bunch of black goo out of the exhaust when you tip it back it is probably the needle and seat sticking flooding it out and dumping a ton of fuel in.

DO NOT give up at this point!

You have already determined:
1. It runs.
2. Has good compression.
3. Fuel system works.
4. Electrical system works.

At this point all that is left is to rebuild the carb.

You are at the last step, get the carb rebuilt and have fun!
Click to expand...
You are not to far off!! Get the carbs dialed in and it should purr!! The black goop is just old 2stroke oil and old water! Normal indeed!!
 
Thanks will do

Question: Is the metal blue box that says Bombardier that bolts over the carb screen and hooks to the big plastic air cleaner required to be in place for it to pull fuel to idle? Because...it is missing. Also the rubber hose that connects the box to the air cleaner is missing.
 
Stayne said:
Thanks will do

Question: Is the metal blue box that says Bombardier that bolts over the carb screen and hooks to the big plastic air cleaner required to be in place for it to pull fuel to idle? Because...it is missing. Also the rubber hose that connects the box to the air cleaner is missing.
Click to expand...

all you have to have is the wire mesh flame arrestor. the box and tube deal was part of the original stuff, as long as you have the mesh screen and the black box that goes over it, you're GTG.
 
thats ok for now, the black airbox just keeps water out of the intake if you flip it over, and they're easy to come by. there are two parts, a lower part that goes onto the little rectangular deal on top of the carb that holds the mesh screen, it has a metal plate on top to hold the mesh screen and the lower part on securely, then the top piece that has a rubber seal and sits down on top of the lower part and is held on with sliding clips. if you PM minnetonka4me, he should have all the bits you need to put the airbox back together for a reasonable price.
 
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