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New from East Texas

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let me see if i can post this in two parts

i had a long post typed out yesterday and then the board crashed. so, to sum up, from looking at your video, it looks like the carb has been swapped out with one from a later model, which has an integral fuel pump, so the thing on the inside of the hull was the old fuel pump.

the handlebar cover has been replaced with a much later one, which is why the button says start/stop. on that ski its only a stop button, the button down by the choke is the starter button. (i always liked this better, you can pull the choke and hit the starter with one hand and work the throttle with the other) they probably used the hole for the lanyard for the extra choke cable, or they might have put a primer on the carb and just used a choke cable to work it.

"where the oil goes?" yep
"fuel selector" yep
"exhaust i guess" yep, thats the water box, it acts like a muffler and also keeps water out of the engine when you shut it off and the exhaust outlet is under water.
 
the hole in the side is the cooling system outlet, you'll want to keep an eye on that in the water to make sure plenty of water is circulating.

once you do a compression check to be sure the engine is worth messing with (you want at least 120psi, less than that and it needs a rebuild, "new" is 150psi), first steps i'd do would be to pull the carb and go through it, or send it to one of the guys on here that work on carbs. there a few specialty tools required to properly set the carbs up so while you can DIY, its not so much floats and jets like on your mustang.

while you have the carb off, you can go through the fuel system and get it cleaned out, probably want to get rid of the old gas and put fresh in. i don't think those years came with them, but check for grey fuel lines, they don't react well to the ethanol in today's fuel and will deteriorate and gunk up the carb and burn up the motor.

once you are sure the engine will run, service the jet pump. you'll likely need to replace the wear ring in the pump since the ski has been sitting, as the rubber dries up and falls out. while you're in there you can drain and fill the jet pump oil. if you find any water in the oil it means the pump needs to be rebuilt with new bearings and seal. if you have a micrometer you can DIY with a dead blow hammer and socket, just need to get the bearings to the correct depth in the pump. Dr. Honda used to sell some specialty tools that were a copy of the OEM tools, but he has stopped making them.

i'd recommend downloading a copy of the factory service manual by becoming a premium member here or doing a google search for it, so you can find where the kill switch is supposed to be wired in. if its been disabled, then i believe it also disables the rev limiter, so if it runs, you could over rev and kill the engine without knowing, and it might also kill your stop button.

I guess you'll be riding on lake palestine? I went to HS not far from there in Kilgore.
 
Thanks Strizzo! Yep Lake P or bust. Thats where I take my Ranger out.

Logic tells me that because I have to hold that one button in to get fire, that is where the lanyard should loop in. Will for sure check the manual.

Checked PSI in both cylinders yesterday and they are at 150 on the mark. Hooray for that one.

Thanks so much for taking the time to help me. By the way I work in Tyler and drive to Kilgore almost every day. Tyler is growing like a weed...we have an outer toll loop now.
 
Yep I mentioned several times that I have the lanyard and kill switch and haven't wired it up yet. Both buttons are covered in rubber...which one are you referring to?
 
The button that makes the motor turn over would be the starter button. The one on the handlebar is the stop button. The button you don't have wired up is the lanyard kill switch, which cuts the motor when you fall off. If you don't have the kill switch wired up, you won't have a rev limiter so its not safe to ride on the water because you can't pull the throttle back fast enough to save the motor.
 
Still the same, won't pull fuel but starts with premix poured down the carb. Pulling the carb today to inspect.

Note: I did pull the fuel line and gave it a quick (for lack of a better word) suck and could tell I would get a big gulp if I kept going...so the selector switch is not blocking anything. I also unscrewed the external filter and it had some orange oily fluid in it which smelled stale as all hell. Probably very old premix.
 
Just found this thread. Welcome to the forum Stayne. Great to have a fellow Longhorn onboard. Great bunch of people on here will help you get it all straightened out. Having good compression is great, all else can be worked out for sure.
 
jhjesse said:
Just found this thread. Welcome to the forum Stayne. Great to have a fellow Longhorn onboard. Great bunch of people on here will help you get it all straightened out. Having good compression is great, all else can be worked out for sure.
Click to expand...

Hey bud thanks for the welcome! I was USAF active from 93 - 05 then an ART for 2.5 yrs. Miss it so much. Cannon, Spangdahlem, Eglin, Dobbins. Had my fill of 130's in Iraq forward deploying from Jordan to Pakistan. Took 3 days of hopping. Box nasties for the win.
 
I have ran across some funky little metal fuel hose clamps. They don't have a screw, look to be a crimped one-use type clamp. How do I get these suckers off?
 
you sometimes can squeeze them with pliers between a couple of humps on them. They may release. But usually, I just go after them with diagonal cutters. Replace with screw ones.
 
Just broke the fuel selector trying to turn it. Had already sprayed carb cleaner everywhere. Was starting to break loose then the nub where the knob pushes on broke clean off. Focusing on carb now. It's a mess of parts and hoses for sure. Black color, doesn't look stock at all. Black USCG hoses galore. What a world what a world.
 
The filter is an oil filter. The oil tank should have oil in it and that filter should be full along with the lines.

PM Rodinescondito for more info on the carb. I believe on those models the fuel pump was external. Some of those lines are for the exhaust cooling. You will need to sort that out as well. Best thing to do is get a manual and start reading.

Google 1991 Seadoo SP manual. There are several free downloads to choose from.

http://www.seadoosource.com/seadoomodelreference.html
 
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The manual is the best place to start. NOTE- I don't have an old ski like that, but from my 96 knowledge base.... The carb looks like it appears to have been replaced. That is why you have the new choke cable and dead fuel pump. So, it is likely that the carb on your ski has a built in fuel pump. The fuel system will be something like this... There should be a vacuum line coming from the cases on the motor to the side of the carb. This is known as a pulse line. It makes the carb fuel pump work based on the pulses from the motor. No pulse, no pump, = no fuel.
 
Since it has to suck fuel all the way through the system, any vacuum leak will keep the fuel from making it to the carb. For your basic testing to get it to run, I would look at your broken fuel selector switch and find the side that connects to the reserve line to the tank. Then replace the reserve line with a longer hose that goes directly to the inlet on the carb
 
The clear-yellowish lines are oil lines that lubricate the rotary valve, which is under the intake manifold and acts like an intake valve that closes off when the piston is coming down in its stroke, pressurizing the crankcase and pushing air and fuel into the cylinder. The lines should have oil in them. One is the supply (lower one) and one is the vent (one by the carb). The line with the filter should go to the oil pump which mounts to the intake manifold (rotary valve cover) and keys to the shaft that the rotary valve is on.

Your carb is definitely from another year ski. The line from the fuel selector to the screw on separator is normal. The carb on your ski has an integral fuel pump that works off of the pressure pulses in the crankcase. The flat plate on the side of the carb facing the motor is the fuel pump. The line that looks like it hooks to the middle of the side of that cover/plate is the pulse line, and should run the a fitting on the crankcase. Get a flashlight in the hull and try to look at the markings cast into the carb body, its possible someone reversed the intake and return fuel lines. To get the carb off, you'll need to pull the mesh screen out of its holder to get to the bolts underneath. You really need to get the carb off and get it cleaned out and rebuilt.
 
Posting issues yesterday. Here is the rest of my post.

Make sure your pulse line is connected to the carb and try to crank it. You should get fuel to the carb. If not, you may have to pull the carb and rebuild it to get the internal fuel pump to work. (you should rebuild it anyway just to be safe) You can also use a hand vacuum pump like the ones used for brake bleeding that you get from harbor freight. You can use that to make sure you can suck fuel from your tank all the way to the carb. It kind of primes your system. You can also use the hand pump to fill all the other parts once you reconnect the fuel selector and filter. Do all of this, then repost and let us know if you can get it to start. (make sure you have good fuel in your tank). Also, not sure what the oil pumps are like on this year. But make sure you either premix some fuel going into your tank of make sure the oil is being pumped into the motor. Don't want to seize it.
 
Thanks guys. The pulse line is running to the crankcase. I am going to see if I can pull some premix (tank is full of fresh premix) to the carb through the hose somehow today. I pulled the hose off the carb coming from the filter and gave it a suck...felt and smelled fresh fuel coming up...paused and kept pressure and then let go and hear fuel rush back towards the tank with some gurgling.

Strizzo I can't find any markings. Can you tell from the video which one is intake and which one is return? I will keep trying.
 
Fuel selector:

*

RES comes from the tank

ON comes from the tank

OUT goes to the Separator in the back (like it does)

*

*

from the water separator:

Out goes to the nipple that is connected to a "separate" block, it's basically sammiched between the pulse plate and the carb body.

*

*

*

The other line that goes from the rear of the carb (top line) is the RET or return line and should go back to the fuel tank. That should be coming from the carb body.

*

Anyone correct me if I didn't see it right.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
The forum has been weird right now. Several 500 internal server errors. I actually copy and pasted this text from an email I sent myself from my pc to my phone. I didn't feel like re-typing and hoped tapatalk would not error on me.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
Just added 4 more gallons of premix. Tank is half full. Pulled the hose that goes from the separator to the carb and sucked on it. Feels like drinking water through a straw with a hole in it instead of just straight water through a straw if that makes sense.
 
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