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Fuel Baffle/Sending Unit - '95 SPX

scrisp

Active Member
Since I'm cleaning out my fuel tank and making sure that ask if the fuel lines are in good shape while I'm working on the carbs, I figured that I'd take a shot at getting the fuel gauge working. I pulled the baffle and tested the continuity of the circuit that feeds the gauge and got "OL" as the reading. So I pulled the unit apart and cut whet the fuse should be, but there is nothing that looks like a fuse in there. Am I in the right place?

Also, here's the float, is there something missing from it? Isn't there some magnets supposed to attached? There were no pieces floating around inside the unit, so I'm stumped. I know that according to the Seadoo page, the tank replacement under the recall was done on one of my units, but I don't think it was this one. I thought maybe the sending unit was replaced, but it really looked like it had never been out of the Seadoo. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

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Yes, that flot is toast and missing the magnets. If they are not in the bottom of the tank they could be stuck to the circuit board.

An improved float with new magnets is available from seadoo, or at least it used to be.
 
Yes, that flot is toast and missing the magnets. If they are not in the bottom of the tank they could be stuck to the circuit board.

An improved float with new magnets is available from seadoo, or at least it used to be.
I just bought a new one from Amazon (Venom). I found one small magnet on the board, but looked up through the tube and couldn't find a second one. I dumped the gas out and didn't notice a second one, but it's possible that it fell out.
 
OEM from seadoo is $20

Sea-Doo New OEM Fuel Level Sender Float Kit, 295500438​

I haven't seen anything from Venom that was good but that is just me.
 
I just bought a new one from Amazon (Venom). I found one small magnet on the board, but looked up through the tube and couldn't find a second one. I dumped the gas out and didn't notice a second one, but it's possible that it fell out.

If you got an OL reading on the multi meter it's not the float although your float is likely bad. I send my baffles off for repair as I don't like messing with them. You have to cut a slot and take a chunk out of the baffle in the correct location to get at the bad spot. I've just soldered across the contact points and resealed the cut out. Pain in the butt for me so I don't don't it.
 
If you got an OL reading on the multi meter it's not the float although your float is likely bad. I send my baffles off for repair as I don't like messing with them. You have to cut a slot and take a chunk out of the baffle in the correct location to get at the bad spot. I've just soldered across the contact points and resealed the cut out. Pain in the butt for me so I don't don't it.
I just received the new float/magnets and put it in the baffle. The ohm meter is now reading and it changes as I move the float up and down, so it's looking good. I just hope the gauge works after I get it put back together. I've never had a working gauge, so it will be nice if it works right. 😆
 
I just received the new float/magnets and put it in the baffle. The ohm meter is now reading and it changes as I move the float up and down, so it's looking good. I just hope the gauge works after I get it put back together. I've never had a working gauge, so it will be nice if it works right. 😆
That's good news. Where did you buy the float? I could use a couple of those.
 
Hopefully it works, Venom aren't great parts, that is why I gave you the OEM number.
 
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