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New from East Texas
- Thread starter Stayne
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soccerdad
Well-Known Member
No, just do it to get it started. Once you know fuel is pumping, then add back in the other items one at a time. I wrote a huge post to you on this last night, but the boards are messed up and I could not post it.
soccerdad
Well-Known Member
Come on. Just pull off the carb and open it up! You know you want to 
It is REALLY simple.... go ahead.... Honestly, just pull it off, open it up. you can always send it out. There is a filter in the carb that may be plugged. Also, there are check valve disks and small passages. Blowing wont tell you much. Just be careful inside. Some of the screws tend to strip, so work slowly.
It is REALLY simple.... go ahead.... Honestly, just pull it off, open it up. you can always send it out. There is a filter in the carb that may be plugged. Also, there are check valve disks and small passages. Blowing wont tell you much. Just be careful inside. Some of the screws tend to strip, so work slowly.
soccerdad
Well-Known Member
I knew you would look! Doesn't look horrible. The membrane is the diaphragm that pumps the fuel. It vibrates with the motor pulse and pumps the fuel. Is that water or oil or something under that membrane? If so, it should not be there. One the first pix, in the carb body that you uncovered by taking off the pump block, that black thing is the filter. Pull it out and clean it out. Not sure what carb that is exactly. Looks like it may have an accelerator pump. Hopefully someone can chime in and tell you what you have. Then you can just get a good carb kit and clean it out.
Stayne
New Member
I peeled off that membrane and the gunk poured out...looks like mostly oil with a little gas. Smells fresh but no telling how long it's been in there. Boat outfit down the road in Tyler (Broadway Power Sports on Loop 323) has a rebuild kit so I am about to head there. I took the day off to do this so hopefully I will get to 2nd base or so. I sure as heck the rebuild kit includes the membrane.
soccerdad
Well-Known Member
Ok. Two things. Read the carb sticky on the top of the two stroke forum. It has good hints. Use the old spring in the needle and seat assy. Do not use a nice new spring in the kit. Not sure what carb size you have but download a manual for the carb. It should be a super bn carb. Mikuni. Get a new needle and seat if they have them.
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Strizzo
Well-Known Member
so, on the carb side since you have it opened up, the little black round guy is the internal carb fuel filter. pull it out, it'll need to be cleaned up or replaced, but be careful with carb cleaner, i think it can eat up the mesh screen.
on the plate side, there should be a check valve in each of the holes, which is how the pressure pulses move fuel through the fuel pump. if they get damaged or don't seal, the pump won't move fuel.
the carb you have is rather unique as it is a single carb that also has an accelerator pump (the little hoses running around the carb and the little black square pump with the linkage to the throttle arm). setting up the carb correctly for your 587 will be tricky as there wasn't ever a ski that came that way from the factory. the carb likely came off of a 96 or later gti or gts or gs with a 718cc engine. the accelerator pump works just like it does on old carb cars, lets the idle be set leaner and supplies a little squirt of fuel as the throttle cracks open while the fueling catches up.
the main and pilot jets and needle/seat and diaphragm is in the opposite end of the carb. you will want an impact screwdriver, plenty of carb cleaner, and some specialty tools to properly set up the low to mid range fueling for the carb. a pop off tester can be made from a bike pump, some pieces of pvc, some brass fittings and fuel line. you'll need this tester for various other checks and tests on the ski so its a worthwhile investment to make. until you have one, you can't properly set up the pop off setting with the needle and seat.
I'd recommend that you read the carb tuning stickies in this and the 2-stroke boat forum to learn as much as you can about these carbs. Also there are some good diagrams and explanations in the factory service manual, if you've downloaded it.
on the plate side, there should be a check valve in each of the holes, which is how the pressure pulses move fuel through the fuel pump. if they get damaged or don't seal, the pump won't move fuel.
the carb you have is rather unique as it is a single carb that also has an accelerator pump (the little hoses running around the carb and the little black square pump with the linkage to the throttle arm). setting up the carb correctly for your 587 will be tricky as there wasn't ever a ski that came that way from the factory. the carb likely came off of a 96 or later gti or gts or gs with a 718cc engine. the accelerator pump works just like it does on old carb cars, lets the idle be set leaner and supplies a little squirt of fuel as the throttle cracks open while the fueling catches up.
the main and pilot jets and needle/seat and diaphragm is in the opposite end of the carb. you will want an impact screwdriver, plenty of carb cleaner, and some specialty tools to properly set up the low to mid range fueling for the carb. a pop off tester can be made from a bike pump, some pieces of pvc, some brass fittings and fuel line. you'll need this tester for various other checks and tests on the ski so its a worthwhile investment to make. until you have one, you can't properly set up the pop off setting with the needle and seat.
I'd recommend that you read the carb tuning stickies in this and the 2-stroke boat forum to learn as much as you can about these carbs. Also there are some good diagrams and explanations in the factory service manual, if you've downloaded it.
Stayne
New Member
Bought some clear fuel line (the small one from the back of the carb to the top). When I squeeze the throttle it inches up and doesn't spray just barely drips. There is another thing on the back of the carb that the throttle links to that also pumps gas up. Neither sends up enough to keep it running. Video coming in a few after I gather up enough oompf.
Stayne
New Member
soccerdad
Well-Known Member
Well I think you made progress! You just don't know it yet. It is possible that you did all the carb work correctly. When you pump the throttle like that, the only thing it is doing is pumping the accelerator pump. You need gas to the carb for that to work. But it sounds like the fuel pump in the carb either is not working or the fuel just is not to the carb yet. I am wondering about the pulse line and the mushy crap. That line only connects to the bottom end of the motor. So any fluid in that line is likely in the bottom of the motor. If you just crank the motor with that line disconnected from the carb, does any stuff come out of that line? If so, then we need to get that thing running to blow all of that stuff out of the bottom end. That issue may be keeping your fuel pump from working. The mushy stuff should not be there! I hope it is not water and oil in there. The bottom end may be filled with oil since the crank seals often weep oil into the lower end when it sits for a long time. If you pull the plugs (and ground them) then crank it with a towel over the spark plug holes, do you get a lot of stuff coming out?
Not sure if this will work, but do you have a small tank or bottle or something like that, that can act as a fuel tank? We can try gravity feeding gas to it instead of having it pull the gas in. You can just put some premix in it and hang it above the carb and let it flow into the carb. It still has to overcome the check valves in the fuel pump, but it should work. Do that if you can and see if it will start.
Not sure if this will work, but do you have a small tank or bottle or something like that, that can act as a fuel tank? We can try gravity feeding gas to it instead of having it pull the gas in. You can just put some premix in it and hang it above the carb and let it flow into the carb. It still has to overcome the check valves in the fuel pump, but it should work. Do that if you can and see if it will start.
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