upyourkiltbatman
New Member
Ok i need to take my rx di to a seadoo specialist . dont mind where just want it fixed properly .any help appretiated
need seadoo proffesor
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SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
any info on what's wrong?
upyourkiltbatman
New Member
Ski went into a jet ski shop with engine trouble needed top end rebuild and after 2 months in shop they could not get it started it would only fire if petrol was poured into cylinder .so i took it from shop and want to take it to be finished somewhere
SeadooMan8
New Member
What state are you located in.
Most likely it's a fuel pressure issue, I'm no expert but check the fuel pressure, it needs to be close to 106psi, within a pound or two. DI ski's are very sensitive to fuel pressure and you may need a new fuel pump. There's a thread on the subject, I'll see if I can find it and post a link to the thread.
Lou
Added: Here's a link to the thread.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...Direct-Injection)-Fuel-Pump-Replacement-Guide
Lou
Added: Here's a link to the thread.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...Direct-Injection)-Fuel-Pump-Replacement-Guide
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I'm with Lou. The DI ski is challenging compared to most. But in most cases it is a fuel pump pressure issue with them. Get a gauge and adapter and test it. Pumps use to be many hundreds of dollars, price is much better now.
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
Here are some things you might check to start:
1. First make sure your battery is the correct one and fully charged.
2. Install the lanyard and listen for the fuel pump to come on.
3. If the fuel pump comes on then crank the engine with a pressure gauge attached to the pressure line coming out of the fuel pump. (on top of the fuel tank) Pressure should be 107psi give or take 1 psi.
4. If not enough pressure then the internal filters probably need changing. Refer to link in Lou's post. Also change the external filter where you have the pressure gauge attached.
5. If no fuel pump sound then, either the pump is bad or you have a blown fuse.
6. Since you had a top end replaced it is possible that something is connected incorrectly. Make sure the pressure line and return line are connected correctly to the fuel rail.
7. Remove injectors and replace or have them cleaned. Could be clogged.
8. Check and make sure there is power to the fuel rail. (fuse)
9. If everything mentioned above checks good, then check the air pressure coming from the air compressor. Could be the shop did not connect something correctly on the air compressor.
1. First make sure your battery is the correct one and fully charged.
2. Install the lanyard and listen for the fuel pump to come on.
3. If the fuel pump comes on then crank the engine with a pressure gauge attached to the pressure line coming out of the fuel pump. (on top of the fuel tank) Pressure should be 107psi give or take 1 psi.
4. If not enough pressure then the internal filters probably need changing. Refer to link in Lou's post. Also change the external filter where you have the pressure gauge attached.
5. If no fuel pump sound then, either the pump is bad or you have a blown fuse.
6. Since you had a top end replaced it is possible that something is connected incorrectly. Make sure the pressure line and return line are connected correctly to the fuel rail.
7. Remove injectors and replace or have them cleaned. Could be clogged.
8. Check and make sure there is power to the fuel rail. (fuse)
9. If everything mentioned above checks good, then check the air pressure coming from the air compressor. Could be the shop did not connect something correctly on the air compressor.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
I was told that too, but does that only apply to Seadoo ? I premix my yami and its fuel injected, 265 hours worth
although duly noted injectors had to be cleaned at 207
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
Hate to say it, because I believe that, so far, it sounds like its fuel related.... But any shop should have rebuilt the whole thing. The 951 has a 200-250 hour average life. If you replace only the top end, the bottom won't be far behind. It is, 13 years old...
I would guess England when he has Wales in his location. I cant think of any regulars in England that post all the time.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
me neither, at least none that profess to have any solid DI experience. I'm sure there are a few, I'm just not aware of them on this or on GH or PWCT.
- BiRkS_
Active Member
I was told that too, but does that only apply to Seadoo ? I premix my yami and its fuel injected, 265 hours worth
although duly noted injectors had to be cleaned at 207
By understanding the way the fuel filters work in an EFI system, anything thicker than regular gas would get caught in the filter (ex two stroke oil) If the oil was cheap oil or tcw3, it could actually plug up the little injector holes, or make the injectors stick.
Ever seen what old 2 stroke gas does in a carb? its like a black/green goo that is caked on! Just imagine that in fuel injectors!
68ragtop
Well-Known Member
My RXDI project started its demise a similar way. A previous owner lost the top end, then did an amateur rebuild of it After the "rebuild" They added oil to the fuel & found they couldn't keep it running very well & sold it off to another owner. That owner struggled with it & decided to pass it on, & I showed up with the cash. This DI's case was extreme, but the in tank filters where plugged up big time, & the tank was full of garbage. Not from the premix, but from fuel contamination & 10+ years life. I cleaned out everything, replaced the inside filters & external inline filter & it was back in business. However the engine had to be torn down & rebuilt correctly. I am in the process of doing that now. Slow paced project for the winter......
Based on what I saw in the tank & filters, I think lack of fuel is what took this engine out the first time around @ 125ish hours
Based on what I saw in the tank & filters, I think lack of fuel is what took this engine out the first time around @ 125ish hours
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andrewterri
Active Member
Stout890, this is a 4 year old thread. You should start a new thread or search and you will find many answers addressing your question. I will happily tell you how I did mine but it needs to be in a new thread because when the moderators see this they will likely close it.
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
I've cleaned tanks both ways, the safe and easy way (removing the tank) and the hard and dangerous way. The latter involved making a sort of fuel vacuum cleaner out of an old electric in-tank fuel pump, some fuel line, and two in-line seadoo water separators with good filter screens. Basically, I drained as much of the tank as I could, then added a gallon of clean fuel and just recirculated it for an hour, occasionally moving the pickup tube and rocking the boat up and down to stir up the debris. This did catch a bunch of stuff, but I believe the end result was still not as good as what you'd get by removing the tank. Also, there is always the potential to burn down the garage when you're dealing with fuel and electric motors. This should be considered only as a last resort If you're going to remove the motor for a rebuild, the fuel tank is easy to pull out.
andrewterri
Active Member
I used a 10 dollar hand transfer pump from Walmart. Amazon and just about everybody carries them. pump it out into gas can then add fresh fuel and do it again while moving the hose to the front or back of tank depending how it is sitting. Takes longer than an electric pump but cheaper and safer.
KIds these days, use a piece of clear 3/8 hose on a stick and siphon the fuel out. The stick is like a handle so you can get all the trash out of the corners. I wont tell you how to start the siphon the old fashioned way because it is dangerous but very reliable.
andrewterri
Active Member
LOL
Yeah on a DI you can take the pimp out of the tank and get your hand in there and wipe it clean with some carb cleaner and a rag.
stout890
Member
Iv heard that carb cleaner will destroy a plastic fuel cell. Can anyone confirm or deny this? Caustic soda cleans the tank the best from what I hear but it's super bad for aluminum and I'm worried if any residue is left behind it will screw some stuff up. I'm not so much worried about cleaning the stains off the tank as much as I am trying to just remove the varnish that may flake off and clogs filters and injectors. Mineral spirits is compatible with gas and recommended as a 50-50 mix to clean the pump so maybe that can do some good to the tank? It gets expensive though and I would prefer not to need to leave it sit in the tank for days for it to work. Basically need the strongest safest method.
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