RESTO My semi resto 96 XP project

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PS Not to sound fruity, but that's a clean driveshaft! Should have no issues with the carrier seal on that baby.

Awesome! Good to hear. Parts will be here tomorrow. I'll prolly go ahead and pull the carbs tonight and go through them and see if I see anything weird.
 
Did you ever find out whether it was a lean hesitation or whether it was loading up/running rich? What did the plugs look like? I had the same issue that would resolve itself when I pulled the choke as it's bogging. I found that I had a cracked RV valve cover. Another time, I had a leaky RV cover O-ring. Case leaks have plagued my 787 experience until I built a Pressure Test kit. Now I make sure the motor holds 8psi for at least 10min before dropping it into a ski. I would like to know what you were recommended as far as pop-off and jetting to run that FA.
 
Did you ever find out whether it was a lean hesitation or whether it was loading up/running rich? What did the plugs look like? I had the same issue that would resolve itself when I pulled the choke as it's bogging. I found that I had a cracked RV valve cover. Another time, I had a leaky RV cover O-ring. Case leaks have plagued my 787 experience until I built a Pressure Test kit. Now I make sure the motor holds 8psi for at least 10min before dropping it into a ski. I would like to know what you were recommended as far as pop-off and jetting to run that FA.

Front plug was dry, but brown. So I added a little to the low speed on that cylinder. Back was nice and wet. Pop off was recommended to be 25 psi. I changed plugs to help me in tuning. Haven't had a chance to test it out.
 
I've always had terrible performance with wet plugs. My theory is "If it's wet, it's not going to fire right, and continue to get more fouled until it's dead and the engine runs like complete crap". I had an instance the other week where I took my boat out and tried running it with a carb installed over an oil line. I caught the problem before it ruined anything, but one of the plugs managed to get fouled. I put in a different set, but I think the accumulated fuel/oil in one cylinder fouled out one of the new plugs. That day, the boat ran, but would not hit Max RPM. The next time I took it out, it started, but hesitantly. It sneezed and sputtered away from the dock where I changed plugs AGAIN, thereby resolving all issues. After that, it winds right up and both plugs are dry when I pull them.
 
Hmmmm that's how I tuned my yammi and it loves it. I want to run as much on the rich side as possible without fouling plugs. We're not talking soaking wet, but I like the electrodes to be wet and the insulator to be light brown.
 
I wonder what you mean by "light brown"... my plugs had that light reddish-brown, melted Hershey's color and my buddy said he thought it was running real hot on that cyl, so I enriched it at the top a bit. I'm terrified of killing another set of rings again. I'd rather them be a bit dark than kill another motor. I guess I'll take pics and throw them up on here and see what the general consensus is. BTW, you need to check out the XP those racers have out on Jordan. It's a beast!
 
I wonder what you mean by "light brown"... my plugs had that light reddish-brown, melted Hershey's color and my buddy said he thought it was running real hot on that cyl, so I enriched it at the top a bit. I'm terrified of killing another set of rings again. I'd rather them be a bit dark than kill another motor. I guess I'll take pics and throw them up on here and see what the general consensus is. BTW, you need to check out the XP those racers have out on Jordan. It's a beast!

I like my plugs to be pretty dark as well, which is why I like to see my plugs a little wet. I did that on my waveventure. Got it dialed in to a light brown/tan which is recommended for most 2 strokes and riched up the high speed as well to give it a bit more when it's wide open. Yeah I wanna make it out to jordan sometime. Gotta get my ski running first, hah!
 
Suke... Changing the FA might warrant jet changes... Not sure about a larger needle n seat. How about getting it back to stock including air box and original needle and seat and spring. Oh and the carbon seal is done. It should be smooth and clean where stainless ring and carbon ring meet. Let me know about carrier bearing seal and how it works out. I'm interested in that. I think the carbon seal is more prone to cavitation. The carrier bearing just needs grease every other ride and I have no problem doin that!
 
Suke... Changing the FA might warrant jet changes... Not sure about a larger needle n seat. How about getting it back to stock including air box and original needle and seat and spring. Oh and the carbon seal is done. It should be smooth and clean where stainless ring and carbon ring meet. Let me know about carrier bearing seal and how it works out. I'm interested in that. I think the carbon seal is more prone to cavitation. The carrier bearing just needs grease every other ride and I have no problem doin that!

Welllll it never quite rode perfect before. Had a similar issue which I attributed to fuel delivery and/or cavitation. So putting it back to stock might not do anything at all. Kinda stuck between a sh1tty spot and an even sh1ttier spot. lol Probably need to run down the laundry list of electrical tests first before I assume it's something I did in the carb. Since I had a similar issue before and rebuilding the carb, and replacing the wear ring did squat.
 
Welllll it never quite rode perfect before. Had a similar issue which I attributed to fuel delivery and/or cavitation. So putting it back to stock might not do anything at all. Kinda stuck between a sh1tty spot and an even sh1ttier spot. lol Probably need to run down the laundry list of electrical tests first before I assume it's something I did in the carb. Since I had a similar issue before and rebuilding the carb, and replacing the wear ring did squat.

Hi Suke,
Sorry to hear about your issues. I would definitely pressure test the engine. You can probably do this with it still in the ski but will have to remove the exhaust and carbs. Leaky engine seals play havoc on troubleshooting.
 
Hi Suke,
Sorry to hear about your issues. I would definitely pressure test the engine. You can probably do this with it still in the ski but will have to remove the exhaust and carbs. Leaky engine seals play havoc on troubleshooting.

yikes! I'll def do the easy stuff first before resorting to that.
 
Guess I have good news and bad news. Good news is I don't think it's electrical. 12.99 volts prior to start, at idle it was 13.77 volts. Runs up smoothly through the RPM's on the trailer. Bad news......I have a rear motor mount that is stripped.
 
Another attempted trip, here we go.



Back down the ramp, pop up the seat after sitting there for a minute or so, and this:


Throwing just about every expletive possible. Ramp was packed so tossed the seat in the back of the car, backed the yammi off, and wife parked the car/trailer. Went out and played for the day no the yammi.

When it was time to go I decided to take a better look as to where the water was coming from. Appeared to be coming from the exhaust side AGAIN! VTS was dry, steering cable was dry......I'm at a loss at this point.

So get home pull off both hoses that attach to the thru hull exhaust fitting and put 3m 4200 sealant on both and shove them back on and cranked down on the hose clamps.

The ONLY thing I can think of is I remember that exhaust hose FIGHTING me to the death to go on. Is the water box size bigger than the other? So did I essentially install the exhaust hose backwards?



Now it sealed like a mofo, but it didn't seem very tight on that thru hull fitting back there. The hose clamp obviously makes it tight, and now there's not chance of it leaking with 4200 back there. Just seems like that shouldn't be necessary since it wasn't necessary before.

Good lord thats ski is a flash back to 1996. That thing is clean! Nice work on the detail job!
 
Here's the kit for the carrier bearing.


here's it all in.


It definitely gets warm, granted doesn't seem to get any hotter than running the carbon seal out of the water. Think I may have cut too much of the hose, although it's no big deal as I can just buy a new one if I have to.
 
When water was coming in did you have the ski running in the waterr just sitting on the trailer? Does your vts work? The reason I ask is I had a gsi that was filling with water, I went through the same problem trying to figure out where my leak was. I had ruled out everything but the bailers. So while I was water testing I flipped the bailers over and watched the holes and sure enough water was bubbling out of them and the more I revved the motor the faster the stream. So I cleaned the lines and elbows and rehung them higher. Still it was pouring in water, so I replaced all the lines and that did not fix the problem. I finally figured out the problem. The vts was not working and the nozzle was facing too far down and that created a reverse suction and was drawing in water. I straightened out the nozzle and that fixed it.
 
When water was coming in did you have the ski running in the waterr just sitting on the trailer? Does your vts work? The reason I ask is I had a gsi that was filling with water, I went through the same problem trying to figure out where my leak was. I had ruled out everything but the bailers. So while I was water testing I flipped the bailers over and watched the holes and sure enough water was bubbling out of them and the more I revved the motor the faster the stream. So I cleaned the lines and elbows and rehung them higher. Still it was pouring in water, so I replaced all the lines and that did not fix the problem. I finally figured out the problem. The vts was not working and the nozzle was facing too far down and that created a reverse suction and was drawing in water. I straightened out the nozzle and that fixed it.

I figured out the leak. Now gotta figure out why it runs like crap. It was the steering cable. I've ridden it in the water and water didn't come in anywhere but the carbon seal. Which was possibly due to a motor mount that was stripped. Oh well that's been replaced with a carrier bearing. Sent a message to a guy locally parting out an XP to see if he has a motor mount, and also a message to Tonka if this falls through to see if I could get one before this weekend. Was gonna take the ski to my buddies lake house who is substantially more experienced with seadoos than I am.
 
Oh my VTS works fine and my balers work as well. They were keeping the water level down nicely when I saw that water was coming through the carbon seal. I rode around with my seat off, which is how I saw everything.
 
Suke, and now a motor mount? That is just plain bad luck. You have a thread that's 17 pages long on this ski, 15 of those pages are outstanding and as I said before you have done an unbelievable job on this ski. But I cant believe the troubles you are running into on the final stretch, I am glad you are still battling through it, don't give up buddy, your almost there.
 
Suke, and now a motor mount? That is just plain bad luck. You have a thread that's 17 pages long on this ski, 15 of those pages are outstanding and as I said before you have done an unbelievable job on this ski. But I cant believe the troubles you are running into on the final stretch, I am glad you are still battling through it, don't give up buddy, your almost there.

YUP! But to be honest this is my first big project like this, so I'm really not surprised I'm having this many issues. I really don't have a clue what I'm doing, so that doesn't help. lol The appearance stuff( buffing, etc) I can do with my eyes closed. Mechanical stuff I'm just dangerous enough to mess stuff up. HAH! Electrical I'm down right stupid with.
 
YUP! But to be honest this is my first big project like this, so I'm really not surprised I'm having this many issues. I really don't have a clue what I'm doing, so that doesn't help. lol The appearance stuff( buffing, etc) I can do with my eyes closed. Mechanical stuff I'm just dangerous enough to mess stuff up. HAH! Electrical I'm down right stupid with.

Damn I am the complete opposite lol. I am completely terrified about wet sanding and polishing my 96... its really delaying my build. The electrical is pretty much the same, you have to be a damn professional to get these electrical systems right...
 
[MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] to save the day! Going to overnight me a motor mount!
 
No problem buddy...$20 is what it takes for a flat rate overnight bubble mailer, If anyone is willing to pay I have no problem doing it.
 
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