RESTO My semi resto 96 XP project

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You did hook up the small line to the exhaust fitting, right?

As far as sealant, permatex black is what I use, available at your local auto parts

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You did ghoul up the small line to the exhaust fitting, right?

As far as sealant, permatex black is what I use, available at your local auto parts

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2

Yeah that line that comes from the engine is hooked up, it had to be from one of those. It was clamped on with a zip tie, which is what was used before. This time I put some sealant on there and a clamp.

Yeah I'd normally put permatex black, but since this is dealing with water and POSSIBLY will see salt water I wanted to use a sealant meant for water. Although I doubt salt water is worse than gear oil, and other stuff permatex black is meant for. I normally have some of it around, but only have the red. I'll try this and see what happens. Starting to get a little frustrated though that's for sure.

Nothing leaks as far as the motor is concerned when running it in the water. All those are buttoned up tight and didn't leak when I ran it before. I hate fixing one thing, putting it in and seeing another. GAHH!
 
On your waterbox...seemed like the waterbox was pretty dirty so that was just and observation...

Ahhhhh, yeah it didn't come very clean when I cleaned it. I didn't put a whole lot of effort to clean it really well either. HAH!
 
So finally got my leak figured out and it was time to try and test her out. Runs like crap.......pretty disappointing. Starts and runs fine. Seems to idle a little rough, but that may be I just don't know what a 787 should idle like. I idled outside the no wake, which was 50-100 yards, then gave it a little gas. It fell pretty much on it's face and bogged. Hearing how some have said these things are cold natured, I idled around looking for leaks making sure I got those figured out. Every now and again I'd give it throttle and it would stumble so I'd let off. Then after 5-10 mins or so I could give it gas and she'd fire off like a rocket then bog. Did that for about 15 mins. Then it just opened up! I could hammer down and she'd FLY! Did that a couple times then looked down when I wasn't either idling or hammer down water was coming in the carbon seal. Figured time to haul ass back to the dock, which wasn't far.


Soooooooo WTF could cause it to run so bad? It shouldn't be THAT bad. Pulled the plugs and PTO plug was wet and black. Front plug was a dark brown. Which is what it should be given that I'm running premix pretty rich right now. Wanna give it some good oiling since it's been a while since it's been run. Is this the raves not opening up early enough, carbs, something else? I adjusted the carbs to the level they should be at given my FA. I'll double check my adjustments, but last check they were spot on.
 
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Oh it runs almost as bad on the trailer as off. It'll rev up all the way on the trailer, but seems not quite right there either.
 
double checked the carbs to make sure I had them set to the settings watercraft magic recommended or the stock settings. Fortunately or unfortunately cause who knows if that was the issue, but they were set to those settings. I just zeroed them out and did it again. Gave the mag carb a smidge more on the low speed since that plug was dry, but atleast dark brown. I'll go ahead and change the plugs, but doubt that's it. Pop off was within 3-4 psi at 22-24 and should have been at 25 when I rebuilt them. So that shouldn't be the problem. Compression was 155 in each hole last time I checked and haven't had it running longer that 15 seconds out of the water and 10-15 mins in the water. Guess I can pull the raves and see how they are, but they move up and down freely when I checked them last night.
 
double checked the carbs to make sure I had them set to the settings watercraft magic recommended or the stock settings. Fortunately or unfortunately cause who knows if that was the issue, but they were set to those settings. I just zeroed them out and did it again. Gave the mag carb a smidge more on the low speed since that plug was dry, but atleast dark brown. I'll go ahead and change the plugs, but doubt that's it. Pop off was within 3-4 psi at 22-24 and should have been at 25 when I rebuilt them. So that shouldn't be the problem. Compression was 155 in each hole last time I checked and haven't had it running longer that 15 seconds out of the water and 10-15 mins in the water. Guess I can pull the raves and see how they are, but they move up and down freely when I checked them last night.

How do the carb settings vary from bill at WCM and stock?


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How do the carb settings vary from bill at WCM and stock?


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I have larger jets due to my flame arrestor. So instead of the high speed being 0 turns they are 1/2(mag) 3/4(pto). Then both lows at 1 turn out. I set my mag low to 1 1/8. Doubt that's it though since every now and again it runs like a raped ape. My waterbox rave was completely flush with the rave. Supposed to be two clicks out. I hear mixed reviews of NEVER touch it and others to adjust it. So I went in the middle with one click out. lol
 
Suke, I had almost the exact same problem, the only difference was that I also had a hard time starting it. But it would bog the same for a while and then finally catch and go like stink. I had to turn the fuel off in order to get it to "catch" or stop bogging, then turn the fuel back on once it started to take off good. It turned out that it was my brand new diaphragm in my pto side carb. The carb would drip fuel even after it was shut off.

It was an aftermarket diaphragm, I put an used OEM one in, (the ones with the red nob in the middle) and fixed the problem.
 
Suke, I had almost the exact same problem, the only difference was that I also had a hard time starting it. But it would bog the same for a while and then finally catch and go like stink. I had to turn the fuel off in order to get it to "catch" or stop bogging, then turn the fuel back on once it started to take off good. It turned out that it was my brand new diaphragm in my pto side carb. The carb would drip fuel even after it was shut off.

It was an aftermarket diaphragm, I put an used OEM one in, (the ones with the red nob in the middle) and fixed the problem.

Weird! I used genuine mikuni kits. Also I have a new fuel selector, so that's not dirty or anything. Going to try it on monday and see if anything changes. If not I'll pull the carbs. Ugh!
 
Just bought one of these to replace my carbon seal. It would have cost me more to replace the carbon seal( carbon seal kit, and new accordion boot) than to go with this setup, unless I need a new driveshaft. Mine was pretty clean when I pulled it off, so I suspect it'll be fine.
drivelinekit1.jpg
 
Just bought one of these to replace my carbon seal. It would have cost me more to replace the carbon seal( carbon seal kit, and new accordion boot) than to go with this setup, unless I need a new driveshaft. Mine was pretty clean when I pulled it off, so I suspect it'll be fine.
View attachment 19739

Suke,

Sorry if this has been answered before (dont feel like reading all 16 pages) but did you replace the needle and seat? If not did you check for leaks on the old set?
 
Just bought one of these to replace my carbon seal. It would have cost me more to replace the carbon seal( carbon seal kit, and new accordion boot) than to go with this setup, unless I need a new driveshaft. Mine was pretty clean when I pulled it off, so I suspect it'll be fine.
View attachment 19739

How do you replace the carbon seals on these 96 xp's?
 
Weird! I used genuine mikuni kits. Also I have a new fuel selector, so that's not dirty or anything. Going to try it on monday and see if anything changes. If not I'll pull the carbs. Ugh!

If you bought the mikuni kit (diaphragms with the red knob) it should be ok, the diaphragms in the aftermarket kits are problematic. but just for fun you might want to take the air intake off run it on the trailer and turn it off and see if there is any leakage after you turn the ski off, or if one carb is sending in a noticeably more fuel then the other.
 
Suke,

Sorry if this has been answered before (dont feel like reading all 16 pages) but did you replace the needle and seat? If not did you check for leaks on the old set?
Yeah they were replaced. I went with slightly larger ones. I performed a pop off test, but not a leak test. If they run crappy tonight I'll pull em and see what I can find.

How do you replace the carbon seals on these 96 xp's?
Use the carrier bearing seal in place of your carbon seal, and the hard rubber tube in place of your accordion boot.

If you bought the mikuni kit (diaphragms with the red knob) it should be ok, the diaphragms in the aftermarket kits are problematic. but just for fun you might want to take the air intake off run it on the trailer and turn it off and see if there is any leakage after you turn the ski off, or if one carb is sending in a noticeably more fuel then the other.

That's easy enough. With the FA's I have on there now it takes all of 5 seconds to take them off.
 
I thought you were only supposed to change jet sizes when changing F/A or Exhaust...

Good call on ditching the carbon seal. I went with a carrier bearing as well for my Challenger. Carbon seal is too likely to leak IMO.
 
Any reason why?

I know you have the aftermarket F/A but I think you need to get back to your base line--where it ran before.

I consulted Chris at watercraft magic. Dude is a legend in tuning of these XP's. He sent me what I needed and instructions of where to set my carbs. I know others that have used him and he's been spot on. I removed the choke plates as well. We had that conversation and he recommended a kit.

I thought you were only supposed to change jet sizes when changing F/A or Exhaust...

Good call on ditching the carbon seal. I went with a carrier bearing as well for my Challenger. Carbon seal is too likely to leak IMO.

Yeah I have an aftermarket FA as well as removed the choke plates.
 
Pulled my pump and driveshaft tonight. Looks like it'll be perfectly fine for a carrier seal. Pretty clean and no real grooves or anything. Should be a good candidate for the conversion.

 
I consulted Chris at watercraft magic. Dude is a legend in tuning of these XP's. He sent me what I needed and instructions of where to set my carbs.



Yeah I have an aftermarket FA as well as removed the choke plates.

It still doesn't sound to me like that would warrant the next needle size. Did you change the jets too? What have you done to this motor and how did you meet Chris? He's not the guy with that race team that's down on Jordan on the weekends with those standups is he? They have ONE SICK X4 out there. I got the chance to ride it and holy shit! The thing pulled itself out of my hands lol I've never ridden an x4 with the beachhouse sponsons before. I guess now I know what it's like to be a heat-seeking missile.
 
PS Not to sound fruity, but that's a clean driveshaft! Should have no issues with the carrier seal on that baby.
 
It still doesn't sound to me like that would warrant the next needle size. Did you change the jets too? What have you done to this motor and how did you meet Chris? He's not the guy with that race team that's down on Jordan on the weekends with those standups is he? They have ONE SICK X4 out there. I got the chance to ride it and holy shit! The thing pulled itself out of my hands lol I've never ridden an x4 with the beachhouse sponsons before. I guess now I know what it's like to be a heat-seeking missile.

Nah watercraft magic is a seadoo shop out in CA. One of the best tuning shops in the country. Bill( believe owner) is actually VERY active on PWC today. I have never heard of anyone having any issues with their recommendations. Yup larger jets as well. Don't recall exactly what jets I went with but needles are 2.0. I really doubt it's anything like that. I think it has more to do with me not doing something right. Maybe I boogered one of the check valves( those were a major PITA BTW), or the diaphragm shifted, or something. Pop off I could never get QUITE to what they recommended regardless what spring I tried. So that may be my first step. Pulling the carbs and getting pop off to exactly what they wanted. It was always below, but only by like 5 psi. Guess really who knows. Or it could be some electrical gremlin.

When I first got the ski and took it out it bogged quite a bit then eventually would open up and ran ok. I thought it was a carb issue and didn't really check into it much since I planned to rebuild them anyways. Then I found the wear ring completely demolished and thought OH it's just cavitation. Wasn't concerned as I had a wear ring on order anywho. So maybe this was an issue all along. Guess it's my fault for not doing a water test.
 
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