Improving relations Jetskis and Fishermen Help me bridge the gap

Psycho Sailor

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Water Crafts
Sea-Doo gti 130
#1
I hope there is some wealth of experience in freshwater fishing from skis like the Seadoos. I’m setting up for casting and live bait fishing.

1st I need to set up a trolling motor to creep around structures that hold bass and crappie. I am leaning toward a Minn Kota 40-45lb thrust off the stern of my new 2 me 2013 gti. I would like to know how those that installed second batteries secured them and the size battery that could be recommended for 2-3hrs of fishing (not wide open running). I am very hesitant to start sinking screw holes in my hull w/out some advice.

I wonder if it is foolhardy to put the battery unanchored in the basket (that will provide the transom for the trolling motor) that I WILL secure to the aft step. No elaborate wiring and mounting issues but what is the risk in such a scheme?

Your ideas for bumpers will help as well. I need to lay up to bride supports and other structures.

Maybe fishing from a Seadoo will engender some goodwill between us and the local bass fishermen. I’ve been among them and know their biases well. I think they will want to be like Mike when they see my catches.
 

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Psycho Sailor

Active Member
Messages
9
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1
Water Crafts
Sea-Doo gti 130
#2
I hope there is some wealth of experience in freshwater fishing from skis like the Seadoos. I’m setting up for casting and live bait fishing.

1st I need to set up a trolling motor to creep around structures that hold bass and crappie. I am leaning toward a Minn Kota 40-45lb thrust off the stern of my new 2 me 2013 gti. I would like to know how those that installed second batteries secured them and the size battery that could be recommended for 2-3hrs of fishing (not wide open running). I am very hesitant to start sinking screw holes in my hull w/out some advice.

I wonder if it is foolhardy to put the battery unanchored in the basket (that will provide the transom for the trolling motor) that I WILL secure to the aft step. No elaborate wiring and mounting issues but what is the risk in such a scheme?

Your ideas for bumpers will help as well. I need to lay up to bride supports and other structures.

Maybe fishing from a Seadoo will engender some goodwill between us and the local bass fishermen. I’ve been among them and know their biases well. I think they will want to be like Mike when they see my catches.
Follow on:
In the absence of experienced guidance from this forum about installing second battery (where and how) I made the “plunge” without guidance.

Maybe u will all gain from my mistakes, as they are sure to follow. I ordered the Lithium Iron Phosphate because it only weighs 4.3lbs and is 7X4X5”. Hope it allows 2-3 hrs fishing time with a Minn Kota Endura C 45lb thrust.

I will share details as I mount a cage for ice chest or bait well and battery.

This is a great resource for PWCs. Of course one must find issues of common interest.
 

Psycho Sailor

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Water Crafts
Sea-Doo gti 130
#3
I couldn’t wait to get all my ducks in a row. Had to see what it felt like fishing aboard my new girl. I purchased an Enduro C2 45lb thrust trolling motor. It was just adequate in the stiff current below the dam in Chattanooga.

I also bought a Mighty Max Lithium Iron (LiFePO4) 35Ah battery. It was very lightweight and compact as advertised and so far less than adequate (only about 1hr – less than promised) – I have yet to full cycle 24hr charge X2 as instructed.

Fishing was easy from the Seadoo. Caught 4 Small Mouth and a lg blue cat in about 2hrs fishing.
Tossing my 8’ cast net was a real chore (6footer would be much easier). More on my cage/mount for the battery and trolling motor after final tweaking. I remain hopeful.
 

Psycho Sailor

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Sea-Doo gti 130
#4
Oh, gave my leftover shad to some fishermen on a pontoon boat. Turned a frown in smiles (small white lies about my fishing success).
 

Psycho Sailor

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Sea-Doo gti 130
#5
Gave it another go Friday. Still struggling with the Lithium Iron Battery. It performed somewhat better after 12hr constant charge. Still less than 2hrs with the 45lbs C2.
'
Did well fishing. Unable to avoid showing off my 20in Smally, 14 and 15" Lg mouth and something broke my ultralite flueger right off at the rod fastener (likely a huge catfish or gar or 9lb small mouth BWAAHAAHA).

The most interesting thing is all the high-end bass boat fishermen had to glide past and watching and questioning me about how the Seadoo is working out.

It is a work in progress. (I have concluded I will need to charge the Lithium battery with the alternator)

Any comments on el cheapo way to get a positive charge post back to the aft platform will be welcome.
 
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Water Crafts
SeaDoo GTI 130
#6
Back under new name. Couldn't log in w/Psycho Sailor or get reset email.

I need to know if I am wasting my time trying to charge two different types of batteries (I gel cell and my new Lithium Iron (LiFePO4) 35Ah. I would get a Perko marine "make before switch" but if this won't work?? Anyone know the answer?
 
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#7
I used a cheap (like $5!) Chinese solar charge-controller to selectively charge my trolling
battery, when running outboard. Pretty easy set-up if you're familiar with relays...

The "intended use" of charge-controller is to connect/disconnect solar array (charge source)
from battery; it has adjustable set points to start/stop charging the connected battery.

In my use, the charge-controller connects/disconnects trolling battery with engine alternator
& start battery. The trolling battery is connected to the "off" side of charge-controller relay;
the "on" side of relay isn't used.

I set the 'high' voltage pot to around 13.2 volts (will 'add in' the trolling battery), to be sure
the start battery is topped off before the trolling battery is added. I set the 'low' voltage pot
around 12.8 volts; if the combined start + trolling battery voltage sags down to 12.8, the relay
switches and disconnects the trolling batt from alternator & start batt.
 
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Water Crafts
SeaDoo GTI 130
#8
Thanks, just what I was hoping for Steve. I actually thought about a solar panel for a bass boat (previous dreaming) and recall reading about charge controllers.

I think u gave me just enough details (in the right direction) to let me believe it can work and I will get it done in the end.

BTW, I have 36 280watt solar panels on my home. They produce enough electricity to the grid for myself and a frugal neighbor. In my case, it will pay me the cost back in 8yrs.
 
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#9
When you're looking at modules, you want one that gives access to
both 'sides' of the relay--not just the 'normally connected' side,
because you'll be putting the trolling battery on the side that's
normally unused. In our application, we're using the side of
relay that's normally unused, in it's solar charge-controller
job. Some of the modules don't give a terminal on the
"unused" side.

BTW, there are purpose-made modules for boats, to do
this (start charging trolling motor battery, after outboard
alternator 'fills' start battery). They're a bit pricey, and these
cheap modules will do the same job for under $4...

12V Battery Automatic Charging Controller Module Protection Relay Board

It's rated at 10 amps, based on the on-board relay, which is
probably adequate. If you think you need higher ampacity,
you could pull the existing relay and wire up an
automotive relay in it's place--that'd be good for 30 amps
or so.
 
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Water Crafts
SeaDoo GTI 130
#10
Steve, can u supply power to the Controller Module by connecting directly to the positive (engine bat) battery post and make a separate ground connection to the engine block?

I don't see easy access to the stator/magneto. It seems like one would need to pick up charging power before the engine's own controller/voltage regulator.
 
Last edited:
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#11
Yes....connecting start batt terminals will give the module the
combined state of charge & alternator activity. Use + and - right
off the start batt terminals. On my set up, I have the neg terminals
of both batteries tied together. The module just flips the trolling
batt + terminal into/out of contact with the alternator & start
batt.

All you're doing is automating a "1/2/1+2" manual battery switch.

On the module I used, the four terminals are redundant. The second
pair of pos/neg terminals is for attaching a voltmeter.

BTW, I put a standard auto relay between the start batt + and module,
to connect module only when engine's running (IGN on circuit
activated). Just to keep things from going on when engine's off...

Additional thought: I'm not familiar with how lithium based batteries
are set-up for automotive type application. I'm guessing they're
designed with a control board, to work with the variable voltage/
amps from an alternator...
 
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Water Crafts
SeaDoo GTI 130
#12
I don’t suppose I will be lucky enough that factory pot settings (13.2 high/12.8 low voltage disconnect) are already set on the module. My old meter seems to have suffered the effects of too long in the “salt life” and forgotten battery installed.
 
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#13
No, the pots *might be* set , but I wouldn't count on it. The
easiest way to set the pots is with a DC power supply--sweep
through the 10-14 volt range and verify the relay actuation
occurs where you want it.
 
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Water Crafts
SeaDoo GTI 130
#14
Can u advise me if it makes sense to splice to magneto/alternator wire, pre-onboard voltage regulator for a few minutes of topping off the second battery? I have a switch that can be used to engage the alternator and disengage it. I am not concerned with overcharging the Lithium Iron bat.
 

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