How To: Repair burned GSX Info Center part 1

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mikemopar

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Got down and fixed my burned info center gauge and figured to show how I did it.

Repair Sea doo 96 GSX Info Center (IC) with a burned LCD polarized film

All LCD screens have a polarizing film on top of the screen. In laymen's terms it darkens the image giving it clarity. One place to purchase this film is from "Aflash Photonics" in Texas. http://www.polarization.com/polarshop/ . For our purpose the film comes in a 10"x6" sheet , hard coated, anti glare with a adhesive back for $31 (Jan 2011), shipping included. Enough to do 8 or more gauges.

Know this film:

• There is a top and bottom of the polarizing film. Both sides of the film has a protective sheet that eventually is removed. One side of the polarizing film is the sticky side and the other is not. It's best to check a corner of the sheet and determine which side of the film has the adhesive, and put a mark to indicate the top of the Polarizing film.

Procedures;

1. Set up - If you've never done this before it's best practice to mark or number the connectors so there is no guess work when re-plugging back together.
2. Unplug all your connectors and remove the IC gauge and the tach gauge from the hatch cover - The IC and tach gauge is held on by the rubber grommet. Just pry the IC out with a screwdriver. Removing both gauges will make it easier to position the film latter. Make a mark on the bottom of the housing for reference.
3. Remove the lens retainer and clear lens - My method is to cut the bottom of the metal ring with a Dremel tool. Spread open the ring and break the seal but careful not to bend the ring because it will be used for reassembly. Use a razor blade to cut the seal and remove the clear lens.

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4. Remove the circuit board from the housing - Remove the 3 screws on the rear grommet retainer and push grommet into the housing. Be gentle on the circuit board, it should slide out easy.

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5. Remove the LCD circuit board from the main circuit board - remove the 2 screws and un-plug the round LCD board.

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6. Remove the front LCD printed template from the LCD circuit board - Unscrew the 4 screws on the LCD circuit board

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Repair burned GSX Info Center part 2

7. Removing the old film from the LCD screen - Use a razor blade to get it started and peel off as much as you can. The blade didn't scratch the LCD screen and I used lacquer thinner to clean the old adhesive off the LCD screen.

Before:
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After:
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8. Set up to position the film - Reassemble the LCD circuit board back onto the main board and into the housing (leaving off the printed template) so you can reconnect and power-up the IC and Tach gauge to the boat for positioning the polarized film. You'll see why the film needs to be a applied in one position as you rotate the sheet. Find the best clarity and make references on the sheet. You can cut the square a little larger than the LCD screen and make a final trim after its applied.

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9. Apply the film onto the LCD Screen - One thing to say here - CLEAN -CLEAN- CLEAN. I used my photo lens cleaners to keep it clean, dust and lint. Push out the bubbles, did I mention "sticky side down", trim around the edges and admire your work.

10. Reassemble back into the housing - Attach the printed template and slide the circuit board back into the housing. Reset the wire grommet and screw on the retainer plate on the back of the housing.

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11. Sealing the clear lens - Place a bead of silicon RTV or equivalent sealer to the bottom of the clear lens and place it on the gauge.

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Repair burned GSX Info Center part 3

12. Appling the lens retainer ring we cut - Apply a bead of Silicon RTV on the inside portion of the retainer ring and place it on the gauge. Tighten it with a hose clamp till dry.

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13. After it dries the IC gauge is ready to go back in the boat.

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The End
Mikemopar
 

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Very nice. Thanks for all the pictures. :hurray:


We need to get this put into one thread, and made a sticky in the how to section.
 
you could put this post after your original on the same thread so people don't have to search for two different threads...
 
Ya-- I screwed up on this posting. I don't know what I was thinking. I didn't use Photo Bucket and was limited to the 5 photos. I can't remember how to merge these files and attach a sticky. I have to leave for a couple of weeks on a boat run so if its not done buy an Admin I'll repost it in the "How Too" when I get back.

I also may do the same for repairing a fuel gauge problem I notice I have. The gauge reads full but the tank is 1/4. I need to pull the ?? manifold tower in the tank and thats a trick on the old gsx.
 
About the polarizing.If you where polarized glasses when you are on the ski you have to check which way the new film goes on.
Light travels in a vertical and horizontal plane.Like the crosses on a chess board pattern.Polarizing,deletes one of the planes.If you get 2 pair of polarized sunglasses and line them up so you can look through them both and turn 1 pair of the glasses 90 degrees either way,all the light blocks out.That's how polarizing works.I know this is a bit random.But I hope it helps
 
Hi all,
I'm new here and found very helpful thread how to fix LCD info center.
Can I use Acetone instead of lacquer thinner to clean the old adhesive off the LCD screen ? because I already have acetone.
What material of LCD screen? I mean make by Glass or plastic. Because if it makes by plastic then can not use acetone to clean adhesive of the screen.

Thanks in advance
 
If I understand this correctly, the problem was the film all along and the gauge was perfect, cause my buddy has the same problem and he is going to replace the gauge.
Please advise.
Thanks guys
 
Is there a way to test the IC before doing all of this to ensure the screen replacement will work. I have an 86 GTX and an 86 GSX that the IC's do not appear to work. The screens looks cracked and damaged due to the sun but unsure if the gauge is actually working or if its just the screen. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
If you can barely read the information on IC due to burn or HARD to read ( It's mean your IC working, but you're hard to read ) then fix it. The instruction for fix IC above is for burn film on IC . Other than that is difference situation. If you have Seadoo GSX 96, there is a wire connector between RPM gauge and IC gauge, check that too. I believe the power send from RPM gauge to IC gauge.
 
Glad to see this thread! I was going to disassemble an old LCD monitor to get the polarizing film out of it. I also have an '84 Corvette with faded LCD gauges and it's good to have found a supplier for this! I've been wanting to fix those for years, and now that we got the GTX with a bad gauge, this is nice to have a source for the polarizing film. I was planning to figure it out myself in a couple days (I took the gauge out this weekend in preparation to figure it out), and it's awesome to have found someone else that already figured it out! Thanks!
 
Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. Had 2 96 skis with what I thought was totally fried info gauges. Couldn't even see if the gauges flickered. Just kne the small warning lighs worked. Decided to try this fix before I bought new gauges. After disassembling and cleaning the LCD's I put them back on the skis. wearing plarized sunglasses that I use for fishing I hit the mode button and the gauges lit up. just waiting on the polarized film to arrive in the mail today and I am back in bussiness with working gauges.
 
Excellent post thanks!

One question, I'm having trouble getting the retaining ring back on, the thiner edge won't go over the lip of the case, anyone got any tips on how to do it?
 
Excellent post thanks!

One question, I'm having trouble getting the retaining ring back on, the thiner edge won't go over the lip of the case, anyone got any tips on how to do it?

You really don't need to replace the ring. Just add a thin coat of marine sealant/adhesive along the top of the inside of the housing and slide the IC back in. It will be harder to get back into it later, but I'm not really planning on taking it apart again. I bought a pre-cut film on ebay for $10 and was done with the process from start to finish in about an hour. Amazing the difference it makes!
 
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Thanks, yes you are right, it took about 25 mins to strip and replace the film, looks great.

I bodged putting the ring back on by making a cone with a diameter just smaller than the OD of the ring, and used a long clamp to push the cone onto the ring, this kept the whole ring/screen clamped to the housing, then using a hose clamp as suggested above to clamp the ring around.

Worked ok, but I trashed the ring taking it off, so it looks crap.
 
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