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HELP AGAIN! I think I found my cavitation and whistling noise problem (with pics)...

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SeaDooGood

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Removed the pump cone today to inspect and change oil and THIS is what I find it looking like inside! It was COMPLETELY dried up! First and second pics shows what the pump cone looked like inside and in the second pic it shows what I pried out, some little object that was stuck and hardened in there (I'm assuming it was part of the inside of the cone). The impeller moves pretty freely, but I pulled the little rubber off the end and it broke off (4th pic). My question is now....WHERE DO I GO FROM HERE!? I'm kinda freaked out, but hopefully I can fix this with minimal cost. What do I need to replace...drive shaft, pump cone, who jet pump assembly? I'm lost right now. The jet pump assembly all seems good, so could I just get a new pump cone? What about the drive shaft? PLEASE HELP...thanks!
 

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I am a bit shocked you could hear the whine with the pump in the water.

Look at all that you have learned... LOL
 
I am a bit shocked you could hear the whine with the pump in the water.

Look at all that you have learned... LOL

PLEASE HELP me man! Where do I need to go from here? Any input or advice is greatly appreciated! Can I just get a new pump cone or do I need a whole new jet pump assembly and drive shaft (ahhh!)?
 
I will ping [MENTION=31048]LouDoo[/MENTION] and [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION]. These guys know the setup MUCH better than I do.
 
Pump is not that hard. I did mine with no training, and no leaks. I used sockets to remove the bearings and drive them in. Get the impeller socket. It rally is not hard. Use a small drill bit to remove the bit of rubber. It might be grease instead of oil. So rebuilds use it, but I don't know why.
 
It looks like you've had water intrusion in the pump usually caused by a faulty "O" ring in the cone, it can also be caused by the double lip seal at the impeller side. It looks like now you need to do a complete pump rebuild. Remove the impeller and the bearings, take some pictures and lets go from there. Also after you rebuild the pump be sure to do a pressure test.

Also what year and model ski(s) do you have? It makes it easier for us to help you if you put this information in your user profile.

Lou
 
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It looks like you've had water intrusion in the pump usually caused by a faulty "O" ring in the cone, it can also be caused by the double lip seal at the impeller side. It looks like now you need to do a complete pump rebuild. Remove the impeller and the bearings, take some pictures and lets go from there. Also after you rebuild the pump be sure to do a pressure test.

Also what year and model ski(s) do you have? It makes it easier for us to help you if you put this information in your user profile.

Lou

97 Seadoo XP Bombadier

Thanks for your help man! How do I get the impeller out? I'm a newbie to all of this (first jet ski), but I've gotten this far so I'm confident with some help and instructions I can do this!

Also, is my drive shaft bad too now? The rubber thing on the end came off, but I can plug it back into the hole.
 
Use a 2 by 4 across the back of the ski and some screws in the holes where the nozzle mounts. I wish I knew this before I used a pry bar to get the Silicon sealant off
 
Use a 2 by 4 across the back of the ski and some screws in the holes where the nozzle mounts. I wish I knew this before I used a pry bar to get the Silicon sealant off

I've already got the whole jet pump assembly off of the hull, 4 screws and it just pulled right off the back. Got the pump cone off too. So now its the impeller on one side and the thing the pump cone went over on the other (pic 3). Now how do I get the impeller and bearing out???
 
97 Seadoo XP Bombadier

Thanks for your help man! How do I get the impeller out? I'm a newbie to all of this (first jet ski), but I've gotten this far so I'm confident with some help and instructions I can do this!

Also, is my drive shaft bad too now? The rubber thing on the end came off, but I can plug it back into the hole.

The black rubber bumper did not break, it is supposed to be removable. Just push it back in.

To get the impeller out you will need to put the jet pump assembly inside of a vise, with the cone side down. Then using an impeller tool, put the tool inside the impeller splines and loosen the impeller using a socket or crescent wrench.
http://impros.com/store/index.php/p...-pump/sea-doo-impeller-spline-tool-wr001.html
 
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Your pump is attached to the ride shoe not the hull so there shouldn't be any silicone sealant, it should just come off without too much pressure. You need to download a service manual for your ski, a lot of your questions will be answered there. You can get one from this site if you join as a premium member or just google for one. You will need an impeller removal tool and possibly a pump bearing tool. I have rebuilt pumps just using a variety of sockets, but to be honest it's kinda a PIA.

http://www.shopsbt.com/mm5/merchant...doo-kawasaki-impeller-tool-2-stroke-1987-2007

Lou
 
LouDoo, how do I get the impeller off the impeller shaft? Vice grip with shaft side in it and twist off the impeller?

Put the cone end of the impeller shaft in a big ass vice, use the impeller tool, in my last post with a breaker bar and maybe a pipe extension, turn counter clockwise.

Lou
 
Your pump is attached to the ride shoe not the hull so there shouldn't be any silicone sealant, it should just come off without too much pressure. You need to download a service manual for your ski, a lot of your questions will be answered there. You can get one from this site if you join as a premium member or just google for one. You will need an impeller removal tool and possibly a pump bearing tool. I have rebuilt pumps just using a variety of sockets, but to be honest it's kinda a PIA.

http://www.shopsbt.com/mm5/merchant...doo-kawasaki-impeller-tool-2-stroke-1987-2007

Lou

I have the manual and yes I was able to pull the pump assembly off just by unscrewing the 4 bolts and pulling it off the pump shoe. Do I HAVE to have the tools to remove the impeller from the shaft or will a socket set suffice? Can I get those two tools at any local stores?
 
The impeller tool is a great buy. You cannot loosen the impeller with just a socket because you have no way to grip it. Ive seen people use an old driveshaft and a pipe wrench in needy times though.
 
The impeller tool is a great buy. You cannot loosen the impeller with just a socket because you have no way to grip it. Ive seen people use an old driveshaft and a pipe wrench in needy times though.

Ok I'll purchase the impeller tool. Do I really need the pump bearing tool too? Can I get the impeller tool at any local stores or online only? I was trying to get it taken apart this weekend, but if I got it online it surely wouldn't be shipped here by then.
 
Ok I'll purchase the impeller tool. Do I really need the pump bearing tool too? Can I get the impeller tool at any local stores or online only? I was trying to get it taken apart this weekend, but if I got it online it surely wouldn't be shipped here by then.

Maybe from a Marine store, but I doubt a local regular auto parts store will have it. As Lou mentioned, the proper bearing tool will make it much easier. But you can use sockets that you are willing to beat on.
 
Maybe from a Marine store, but I doubt a local regular auto parts store will have it. As Lou mentioned, the proper bearing tool will make it much easier. But you can use sockets that you are willing to beat on.

I will get the tools then. With those tools, just how hard will it be to rebuild the jet pump? Do y'all think the drive shaft is ok?
 
Most likely the prop will not come off...when they burn up this bad they fuse themselves to the shaft.

Its not rebuildable...you will need a new unit. I have them available as well as prop tools. I would try to get that prop off first you never know...but Im calling it wont.

Let me know if I can help further.
 
I drive the bearings out with a bar that JUST fit inside the bore of the housing and I can offset to just catch a lip of the bearing but not screw up the bore of the pump. I also have a blind hole bearing puller which works pretty good too. DO NOT drive them all the way through the pump, drive them outwards. take pics, get a cheap pair of verniers (calipers like I have pictured) and measure the depth. CAREFULLY tap them back into the housing, you have to make sure the bearing stays square to the bore. If you don't feel confident, find a local machine shop and have them press them back in. If that is the route you take, DO NOT remove the bearings first. Let them measure the depth and they will put them back in to that depth. They shouldn't kill you to do it, it's literally 15 to 20 minutes of work, once the impeller is off.




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I use these in my garage, I think I paid $9.99. I use my $160 Mitutoyo pair for work, not in my garage. I won't feel bad if I ruin the $9.99 pair in my garage. Sadly, they are with in 0.0001 of my $160 pair tested on precision surface ground Jo blocks (gauge blocks).

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html


The blind hole bearing puller, another excellent tool to own. Great for working on vintage shaft drive Honda ATC Trikes, Seadoo pump bearings, and Seadoo rotary valve bearings in engine cases. I buy a tool if I need it, I have no problem spending cash on that stuff, that is usually my favorite part of a job!


http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html




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Most likely the prop will not come off...when they burn up this bad they fuse themselves to the shaft.

Its not rebuildable...you will need a new unit. I have them available as well as prop tools. I would try to get that prop off first you never know...but Im calling it wont.

Let me know if I can help further.
[MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION], when you say new unit, you mean everything new in the jet pump assembly...needle bearing, thrust washer, impeller, impeller shaft, cone cover, o-ring for cone, pusher, spring, and pipe plug socket? If so, do you have all the parts or do you sell the whole unit already put together? My impeller housing and wear ring seem to be fine.
 
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