It's now 27.65 times!....
Im sure this has been beat to death 27.64 times but with all my reading and searches im still a little confused on winterizing a 95 gtx. i have the manual and get that but it seems there is about 700 diff way's people are doing it. Im in michigan, and want to get these to bed for the winter. Im new to this so i guess that explains the confusion. Just looking for any links, tips, help, ect. Also do i need to change the pump oil now or can i wait till spring. Thanks a ton!!! Chris.
LOL.....:rofl: Winterizing has the standard procedure for all skis but the bottom line is, there is always more than one way to skin a cat.
The Rotax engine uses a TLCS (total loss cooling system), so for the most part, you really only have a few pockets of water remaining. You have two drain lines at the bottom of each cylinders water jacket, so chances of them freezing and causing a cracked cylinder is slim.
The 657X is still quite a little power house, which I assume is your motor. That year, BRP used two motors, the 657X and teh 587, so put some juice in it for the winter and you'll be ready to do the pump in the spring. The idea is to check the pump at least once a year. It doesn't matter if it's fall or spring, just make sure you check it.
Your going to have to identify your cooling hoses to pour some antifreeze into your engine. I don't know exactly how much you know about your system, so I don't want to sound like or make you feel inadequate. So, I'll just do best I can.
On top of the head of the motor, there is two hoses, one is the flush fitting, the other an outlet. You need to pinch that outlet line. Your normal flow of water come in from the pump, through the tuned pipe and into the exhaust manifold before going into the cylinders, out the top and out of the engine. You need to see if you can feel under the exhaust manifold, or you might see it coming out from under the engine, running to the exhaust pipe. Pinch that line.
The two water lines you see leading from the pump to the tuned pipe, pinch them. At the very top of the exhaust loop (which is the highest point of the cooling circuit, you'll see a water line that is doubling back to your exhaust. Remove that or if it's still the clear line, you can see through, this is where you'll monitor your coolant.
Get a gallon of the 50/50 mix and using your backflush connection, rig it somehow by either removing it from the engine and attaching a short line with a funnel at the end or what ever works for you. Then, pour your coolant through the engine till you see it come from that high point of the engine. All your low point hoses are pinched, except the ones with calibrated fittings and there is no way the coolant can all leak out before you get it pinched.
Now, once you've reached the top, coolant coming through that top line, stop pouring the coolant, take off all your hose pinchers, put all your lines back on. Start the motor. You'll be blowing all your excess accumulation out of the motor. But, whatever puddles of what would be water, is now antifreeze. Now, your protected from freeze.
Spray your entire engine down with WD-40 and if you don't have the fogging spray, get a can of spray lithium grease and spray through your carb while turning the engine over (spark plug wires removed and grounded) and then, remove the plugs and spray a quick burst into each plug hole.
Now, when you start in the spring, the lithium is going to smoke like you think it's on fire.......but give it a few minutes and it'll all burn off. You can't buy a better protectant to create a moisture barrier between your metal to metal parts.
If it's really cold and you have access to electricity, on those freezing cold nights, you can take a drop light, you know the kind you use in a garage with a cage around the light bulb, put a 60 or 75 watt bulb in it and lay it near the exhaust manifold at the engine block. As long as you don't have an accumulation of fuel or leaks, it's safe to do. If you have any order of fuel, do not do this..........:cheers:
