Didn't want to be one of those guys!! But I guess I am...

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Duane72

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I didn't want to be one of those guys who joins and it's obvious they only joined because they have a problem they need help with... but... LOL I do have a problem. I actually don't personally own a PWC but have a friend who has 3 that I ride a lot. I also help maintain them as I have worked on cars for the last 20 years or so. I've learned a LOT working on SeaDoos and find that it's a love/hate kind of relationship. The Rotax motors are awesome when kept up... but that's the key. If they're allowed to go unmaintained man they can bite you! So, having fallen into the world of SeaDoos, enjoying and maintaining I figured I would join a site where folks know what they're talking about when it comes to them.

Oh wait... I did post in the introduction section so this isn't my first post afterall! lol

Anyway, here's the issue... it's on a 2005 RXT Supercharged 3 seater.

Last spring I rebuilt the pump so to speak. It sucked a rock and I had to replace impeller and wear ring. Nice job and learned a lot about the propulsion system on these things. Which is COOL by the way! Ran like new all season until in late summer it wouldn't shut off when you pulled the "key". You could kill the motor but it would beep still. It set for a several weeks since it was the end of the season. (Remember these aren't mine.) When I got the chance to get over to look at them I found it was a bad DESS (?) post. So I swapped it with a used one off a parts ski. Now these set, even though I highly encouraged them to work on winterizing them and have the batts removed, all winter. It was a warm winter but still. Well this spring I stepped in and was determined to get the RXT up and running. After putting all the work into the pump last year I wasn't going to see it just sit right? Now the problem...

This thing turns over fine, but does NOT want to start. I pulled the plugs, and of course without fogging last year, they were nasty and corroded so I replaced them. Still not firing. Pulled the plugs put them into the coil boots and checked against a ground to see if they were sparking. I have spark on all three cylinders. So I drained every ounce of gas out of it, including disconnecting the fuel line to the injector rail and running the pump to get the last little bit in the tank, and filled with fresh high octane. Turns over and spits and sputters like it wants to fire, but just won't get going. I can't find ANY reason for this thing not to run and it's driving me nuts. Pulled the codes on the MPEM and all that is there is the cumpass out of range. That's been there for a few years and never affected the performance of the machine that I know of.

This is the only thing I can think of, and really would love your opinion before spending the money. The batteries... this one has the OEM Yuasa in it, but it's 4 years old and like I said was not maintained over the winter like it should have been. It did get a trickle charge on occasion but seems whenever I went over to check them someone had unplugged the extension cord for something else at one time or another. So it got charged but not all winter long. I cycled the battery by taking it out, running a 10amp charge on it for a couple hours, then trickle overnight. Put a load test on it and it passed, but was on the weak side. So I am at the point of thinking I should change the battery. At the best price of $130 I don't want to just throw money at the thing.

My question is does this sound reasonable or is there something maybe I'm missing? I should mention that I did jump the battery to try and have solid power to see if it was the battery or not, but not sure if that really gives a good indication since jumping does not always give full strength going through a weak battery.

There it is. Any help is GREATLY appreciated!!

Duane in Rhode Island
 
Did you put new spark plugs in or did you just clean the old ones? These 4TEC engines eat spark plugs for breakfast, and if the plugs looked nasty they're almost certainly shot. Just because they spark doesn't mean they spark right. I had a very similar problem with plugs that looked like brand new, I thought they were the new plugs in fact, and when I grounded them in the coils and cranked the engine each plug sparked but the engine would not run without missing and surging like crazy so I finally found the REAL NEW spark plugs were still in the spare spark plug carrier so I put the REAL NEW spark plugs in and the thing runs like brand new again! Who woulda thunk that?

So try a brand new set of spark plugs, if you haven't already. Even if the old plugs are clearly sparking something changes when they're in the cylinders under compression they may not be sparking every time.

And from now on go over to your friend's at the end of the season and ya'll winterize these things, ok? Corroded nasty spark plugs and bad fuel is only the start of what goes wrong when you ride'em hard and put them up wet for the winter! Valve stems corrode and weaken (eventually breaking off letting the engine ingest a valve head! Eeek!), corrosion starts in the cylinder walls and forms weak spots, electrical contacts in the electrical system start to oxidize, etc. etc. etc. Bad mojo man, bad mojo!

ps. Being that this is a 2005 Supercharged model, how many hours are on it and have the supercharger's ceramic slip washers been replaced? Also the supercharger has a 100 hr rebuild interval, for complete rebuilding... if you don't do the service bad things will happen and you'll end up selling them for parts only. :-(

pps. Who changes the engine oil and filter, are they being changed at least once each boating season???? Also best to use Marine Stabil or SeaFoam in every tank of gas year round, that's what I do.

- Michael
 
Jake I am almost positive that my SeaDoo would ride oh so much better if it had a woman like yours on it with me! Yeah that's the ticket! Wow! Where do I order one of those? :-o

(drooling!)

-Michael
 
Big Jake... I don't think it's the injectors. I pulled the rail and turned it over (away from myself obviously) and the spray patters are all full and even.

Michael... New plugs. I have had the issue with plugs on these things before so that was one of the first things I did. I've seen a lot of talk about the ceramic washers. I would be willing to bet they haven't been done. It's something I'm looking into doing as I get into this thing. And if I get them up and going I will be paying much more attention to their care and winterizing now that the owner has made the deal of my labor for use of them when I want. :)
Interesting you mention the corroded valves... one of the skis is an 04 RXP that my final summation of its not starting was the valves corroded causing lack of compression. I got low readings on it and it just wouldn't fire no matter what I tried. Which is one of the reasons I'm so nervous about this RXT.
 
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Jake I am almost positive that my SeaDoo would ride oh so much better if it had a woman like yours on it with me! Yeah that's the ticket! Wow! Where do I order one of those? :-o

(drooling!)

-Michael

well Michael, she always wanted to visit Texas and I could really use a rest. All it is with this girl is sex, sex, sex. How bout I send er down yer way for a couple a weeks but ya'll gotta promise ta send er back.

Sorry Duane fer hijackin yer thread.
 
That's it. I'm at my witts end!! Ugh. Just spent $130 on a new Yuasa battery for the thing. It was the only thing left I could possibly think of! Turns over a lot faster now but STILL only spits and sputters. It's igniting some because it acts like it wants to run. When I hold the throttle to cut the fuel and turn it over it just spins. There is a definite difference. I even put new spark plugs in it... again! Just to be sure. I just don't get it.

The diag is giving me the compass out of range and the lake temp out of range which neither should stop it from starting. But it did give me a new code today, P0520 for the oil pressure sensor. According to the manual it would cause limp mode, but it shouldn't keep the engine from starting at all should it? Well, that can't be anyway because of the slight ignition I'm getting. So it HAS to be sparking.

Anyone have ANY clue what else it could be?? Bad ground on the engine block maybe??
 
Bump! I could really use the help guys. I'm at a loss. Is it time to have to take it to the shop? We only have one near by and he is booked into late august or september.
 
Have you got anyway of testing the coils, I dont think its them but they are another step in the ignition system worth checking.
 
I'm not sure to be honest. I pulled them with the spark plugs and held them to ground and got spark when i turned it over, but I have no way of knowing if it was good spark or not I guess.
 
I wonder if your throttle position setting is out of spec. Your almost at the mercy of the dealer on this one. Thats the exact reason I bought the candoo.
 
I wonder if your throttle position setting is out of spec. Your almost at the mercy of the dealer on this one. Thats the exact reason I bought the candoo.

I wondered that too... the diagnostic list in the service manual mentions the idle control solenoid as a possible cause for rough start as well. Neither one can be removed without having to reprogram the settings when put back in. I guess the idle valve can get corrosion on it and stick. You can take it out and clean it but it has to be "reset" by the software when you put it back in. I don't know. I can't do the $$ right now for the diag kit. But man if I could, I think I could open a shop and make a killing.
 
It is nice. I usually plug it in after every time out just to monitor whats going on. I've had 2 fault codes that where minor. One bad read on a key and either my mother or sister held one of the buttons too long causing a fault. I'm still learning as to what it can do but with anything it will come in time. The added bonus is it will also work with 2 of my sleds.
 
I checked it out. Pretty sweet! My brother has two Ski-Doos it would probably work on as well. Man it's tempting.
 
Curious here....when you replace the plugs...what did the ends look like that were in the boots?

Ohh... nice thinking. You're thinking maybe boots are bad and letting arching occur? I didn't think of that (if that is what you were thinking). I know that can be a problem on these coil-over-plug setups. At least on cars. I did swap them out with some from a parts sea-doo and it did the same thing. What would the chance be of them all doing it at the same time?

To answer the question directly though, sorry... I can't recall what the end were like. I would have to take a look this week when i get back to where it is. When I put the new plugs in again with the battery, the new set that I had just put in did have some black on the electrodes already in Cyl 1 and a little in 2. Figured it was from unburnt fuel.
 
well...one was bad coils...but also....if the plugs were gone to begin with and you replaced the plugs...what did the ends of the new plugs look like when you installed them.
 
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