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**Fuel Gage Problems please help**

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Wave_Raiderz

Wave_Raiderz

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What's up guys. Im having some issue here. I have a 95 seadoo XP 720cc. Here's my situation. Stopped at the gas station to get fuel (clearly) but before i started fuelling I put my key on to check my fuel level. It displayed 2 bars left so I pulled the key out and began fuelling. As I was getting to the top I plugged my key back cause the gas pump handel stopped letting me know it was full so i wanted to see how full it was on the gauge. The gage was 1 bar from full so I gave it a couple more squeezes to top it off. Now my gauge reads empty. My question now is how do I get my float to drop without removing it and or did I do any damage to it tryin to overfill it? I rode with it like that all day and pretty much have less then a quarter tank now and it still the same. Do I have to reset it or something? Any help would be great. Cheers
 
Thanks LouDoo. Appreciate the reply. I just added some fuel and gave it a shake while i added it and still nothing. I will try and remove the existing float and give her a shack and put it back and see what she does. I will pick up that part in the meantime and see if she works either way. I will keep you posted. Cheers
 
LouDoo,

I went ahead and took my baffle out and checked the float. I have the exact same new moulded float in it so I went ahead and cut a hole on the side at the top to access the F1 fuse. I then removed the F1 fuse and replaced it with a solder fill. After that I plastic welded it back together and tested it. She worked like a gem. I also added an in line fuse about 20" away from my baffle in an easy accessible location.
 
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I think whoever came up with the fuse idea on the baffle board, is the same guy who worked on the design of the VTS units. :facepalm: I bypassed the internal fuse on my 97XP baffle as well.
 
68ragtop said:
I think whoever came up with the fuse idea on the baffle board, is the same guy who worked on the design of the VTS units. :facepalm: I bypassed the internal fuse on my 97XP baffle as well.
Click to expand...

You could be correct about that one.

Several have bypassed that fuse.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
 
Hi, I had the same problem on my 98 GTX no fuel bars. I took it apart today and I already have the updated white float. But I do get the 0 to 88 ohm reading when I shift the baffle and cause the float to slide up and down. Did you ohm out you circuit too? I don't know if I should redo the float or check the F1 fuse. Any ideas? Thank you.
Frank ,98 GTXL, 97 GTX, 96 SL 780
 
0 to 88 on the baffle resistance is good, you could jumper the fuse while it's out of the tank to eliminate a future issue.

While it's out, you can test it and the gauge, if you jumper the two wires going to the gauge at the baffle connector, the gauge should read full scale while the MPEM is on. If the gauge doesn't read full scale then somthing is wrong with the wiring to the gauge, or the gauge itself.

But from where you are now, try testing the gauge while it's connected to the baffle, turning the baffle upside down will make the float slide to the top and the gauge should read full scale.
 
I flipped the baffle and it still was no show on the bars. Also my tach is not reading right, it reads 8000 rpm at idle and the oil light and temp lights are on. I think when I got water in the hull the MPEM got wet and I am drying out the harness. I shorted the temp sensor and the alarm went off as it should but it seems the fuel, tach, oil and temp problems are all related. I'm quite angry and upset about this.
frank
 
k mier said:
F1 fuse? Enlighten me.
Click to expand...

On the electronics of the fuel sending unit there is a fuse (internal of the fuel tank). Once these pop the circuit opens and no more fuel gauge.

Most solder over this and make it a solid connection much like a wire would be.
 
Hm...just installed a new float, thought that was the problem since the old one did sound like it had fluid in it when shaken. Still no fuel gauge....and now the tank is back in it's place and full of fuel. Oh well, it's never that easy.
 
Frank, if your baffle measures 0-88 Ohms and the float has no more than a few drops of liquid inside, then it was working properly.

Jumping the two wires going from the baffle from the boat harness should cause the gauge to go full scale. If it doesn't, there is something wrong with the gause, check the power and ground to the gauge, mechanical style gauges can corrode inside if water gets in there.

The fuel gauge circuit only goes through the MPEM, the MPEM doesn't do anything with/to it except provide power for the gauges. The tachometer gets it's signal from the MPEM, the first thing to do in case the tach doesn't work is to check for power and ground, then check for signal, a test tach can be used for this, like an automotive tachometer device. The signal comes from the MPEM, so I guess the signal is reliable, most likely a corroded ground or terminal connector somewhere if not a defective gauge.
 
When jumping the fi fuse is it necessary to add an inline fuse in the circuit and if so what size? I'm finding conflicting answers.
 
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