Help with 1997 XP

[gp1200x]

On a hose you should see the pisser squirting water after the chambers fill. I have 3 skis...97 XP 800 99 XPL and GP1200. They all piss water out with a hose attached and running. I wouldn't take a craft on the water if I don't see water coming out of the pisser while on my driveway.
Dirt dobbers have clogged mine up several times and I use a small pick to clear it and make sure it goes several inches into the tubing. Clogs usually clean up fast if you have it on the hose and running at the same time.

If it isn't clogged and no water from the pisser while on the hose then stop and start finding out why. This can be a serious issue. Pull the hose off the exhaust port itself to verify water is trying to come out the pisser port.......remove the threaded nozzle if needed. If water is not coming out here then you have a serious issue.....hosing, leak, incorrect hose routing etc...and it will overheat on you.

Just remember ....on the hose it does take a little time for the water to fill the chambers and start squiriting out. Could take up to 20 - 30 seconds if I recall.

 

[gp1200x]

Like i said I have a 97 XP and 99 XPL.. Both with carbs and heads reworked for 93 octane. My 97 XP pulls pretty good out of the water with the right prop and grates and most new riders seem to prefer it. Slower than my other two but still fast. I have an Inventioneering grate on one and it seems to provide the best hole shot but they are no longer made. Had two but one broke at the weld.

I went through trying to get replacement hood shocks and gave up. Wasn't going to fork over the money for new one from Seadoo and never found an aftermarket one that would be correct. I am weary of buying used ones that may have the same force as my current ones.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Like i said I have a 97 XP and 99 XPL.. Both with carbs and heads reworked for 93 octane. My 97 XP pulls pretty good out of the water with the right prop and grates and most new riders seem to prefer it. Slower than my other two but still fast. I have an Inventioneering grate on one and it seems to provide the best hole shot but they are no longer made. Had two but one broke at the weld.

I went through trying to get replacement hood shocks and gave up. Wasn't going to fork over the money for new one from Seadoo and never found an aftermarket one that would be correct. I am weary of buying used ones that may have the same force as my current Amazon.ca

Amazon.ca
Not sure if this link worked, but I was going to use one of these gas shocks till I got my used machine. I had also found the eyelet ends that will screw into the ends for 11.00

 

[burtshaver2021]

On a hose you should see the pisser squirting water after the chambers fill. I have 3 skis...97 XP 800 99 XPL and GP1200. They all piss water out with a hose attached and running. I wouldn't take a craft on the water if I don't see water coming out of the pisser while on my driveway.
Dirt dobbers have clogged mine up several times and I use a small pick to clear it and make sure it goes several inches into the tubing. Clogs usually clean up fast if you have it on the hose and running at the same time.

If it isn't clogged and no water from the pisser while on the hose then stop and start finding out why. This can be a serious issue. Pull the hose off the exhaust port itself to verify water is trying to come out the pisser port.......remove the threaded nozzle if needed. If water is not coming out here then you have a serious issue.....hosing, leak, incorrect hose routing etc...and it will overheat on you.

Just remember ....on the hose it does take a little time for the water to fill the chambers and start squiriting out. Could take up to 20 - 30 seconds if I recall.

Thank you for the good info, I will make sure it is pissing before taking it out on the water

 

[gp1200x]

Amazon.ca
Not sure if this link worked, but I was going to use one of these gas shocks till I got my used machine. I had also found the eyelet ends that will screw into the ends for 11.00

I think I looked at those same links when I was searching for some. I think the 20 inch unit may work.

I figured I could drive and drill out the bottom attachment for a through pin but didn't find an eyelet end for the top. Where were they for 11.00?
I also didn't know if the bottom attachment was also a screw on or permanent mount.

Still not sure of the pressure needed but when I had one off that was still working pretty well I had a hell of a time trying to compress it and get a reading of the force to compress it. It was A LOT and it seemed like it was well over 100 lbs. I'm not sure 110 will do it.

If you know that both ends screw on and you found eyelet ends with holes in them I may order one of the struts but probably get the 150 lb one to test.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I think I looked at those same links when I was searching for some. I think the 20 inch unit may work.

I figured I could drive and drill out the bottom attachment for a through pin but didn't find an eyelet end for the top. Where were they for 11.00?
I also didn't know if the bottom attachment was also a screw on or permanent mount.

Still not sure of the pressure needed but when I had one off that was still working pretty well I had a hell of a time trying to compress it and get a reading of the force to compress it. It was A LOT and it seemed like it was well over 100 lbs. I'm not sure 110 will do it.

If you know that both ends screw on and you found eyelet ends with holes in them I may order one of the struts but probably get the 150 lb one to test.

Amazon.ca
These are the ends that I found on Amazon, probably a little narrow, but I figured I could fill in the gap on the pin with washers if I needed to.

This is a picture from Amazon ad. 150 pounds could be closer to original as suggested to me earlier, I was going to go with the 100 pound ones because I thought there might be less chance of damaging the hood trying to close it with the 100 pound one versus one that holds up more weight. I was willing to deal with the possibility that the 100 pound shock may not hold it in the upright position but at least it would slow down the travel speed when closing, was my thought anyways. If you do try one of these I would be interested to see how well it works

 

[gp1200x]

Amazon.ca
These are the ends that I found on Amazon, probably a little narrow, but I figured I could fill in the gap on the pin with washers if I needed to.

View attachment 68412This is a picture from Amazon ad. 150 pounds could be closer to original as suggested to me earlier, I was going to go with the 100 pound ones because I thought there might be less chance of damaging the hood trying to close it with the 100 pound one versus one that holds up more weight. I was willing to deal with the possibility that the 100 pound shock may not hold it in the upright position but at least it would slow down the travel speed when closing, was my thought anyways. If you do try one of these I would be interested to see how well it works

I realized the 17-17.5 inch unit is the one needed. I tried to order it with the 150 lb rating and it is not available. I think this is what happened to me last year too when I researched this. I may look for another source but I think I want it rated for 150 lbs. The ends you found... I can make them work. It also showed this as 667N when I tried to order the 150 lbs so this is close to the 600N rating mentioned earlier. Multiple sellers for this strut on Amazon so I may order one to try.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I realized the 17-17.5 inch unit is the one needed. I tried to order it with the 150 lb rating and it is not available. I think this is what happened to me last year too when I researched this. I may look for another source but I think I want it rated for 150 lbs. The ends you found... I can make them work. It also showed this as 667N when I tried to order the 150 lbs so this is close to the 600N rating mentioned earlier. Multiple sellers for this strut on Amazon so I may order one to try.

Amazon.ca
I looked over the numbers again and I think you are correct that the 17” one would work. The 20” one I was going to get would have pushed the hood to far. Here on Amazon Canada site, they do have the 17” 150 pound ones. If my used one doesn’t work correctly fly which I think it’s still good I would go with the 17” 100 or 120 pound ones myself, again just worried about the force when trying to close it breaking the hood.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Let me check the attic, I made a bunch of the PVC tools years ago but nobody wanted to buy them.
If all else fails you can pull the pump and use channel lock pliers.

FOR SALE Thread 'VTS Nut Tool'

Jun 22, 2018

I got a little crazy in the garage last night since I have thousands of feet of pipe at work and a little spare time. Honestly these are easy to make but if anyone wants one let me know. I’m thinking maybe $5 plus shipping? Let me know. I found out they fit in a Flat rate envelope so shipping is $7.60. Total will be $12.50.

• mikidymac
• Replies: 1
• Forum: Buy/Sell/Trade Sea-Doo Related

I will have to check on shipping but $5 is still fine if I have them.

Did you have any luck in the attic? I’ve put the XP on hold to clean up my barn so I can roll machines into and out of my little shop easier, as long as I get the XP sanded before winter hits, I can finish everything else up over the winter.

 

[mikidymac]

Yes I found one last night. Private message me your address.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Yes I found one last night. Private message me your address.

Private message sent, Thank you

 

[gp1200x]

I bought two struts in a kit for $12. They are just over 17 inches center to center with the eyelots attached which come off on both ends. I bought the 150 lb ones since I couldn't compress my stock unit when I had it out. Now I have to get eyelots with holes in them instead of the ones that came with it. Can't test for a few weeks since I will be away but I don't know if these will hold up for long since they are much thinner than the stock units.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I bought two struts in a kit for $12. They are just over 17 inches center to center with the eyelots attached which come off on both ends. I bought the 150 lb ones since I couldn't compress my stock unit when I had it out. Now I have to get eyelots with holes in them instead of the ones that came with it. Can't test for a few weeks since I will be away but I don't know if these will hold up for long since they are much thinner than the stock units.

Nice, was that the same brand as the link I sent you? Looking forward to seeing how it works out. Send a link for the part numbers please. If it doesn’t work, your only out 2 coffees and a breakfast sandwich

 

[gp1200x]

When I clicked on the link they showed as no longer available so it must have been the last in stock. Price was like half off too compared to all the other struts I looked at.

 

[MAL]

Here is a nice 97 XP build.

Not sure if it's helpful or not, but I think its fast.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Here is a nice 97 XP build.

Not sure if it's helpful or not, but I think its fast.

Thanks MAL, I love the today we wrench videos, Nick does absolutely amazing work. I haven’t seen this video though, I will watch it tomorrow

 

[nambi]

View attachment 68152View attachment 68153I’m not going to call this thread a project t because I’m not even sure I’m going to keep this, i had myself convinced I was going to go out, wash it up and post it for sale. After washing it up and taking some 1000 grit to a few spots, it was wet and shining and I changed my mind again. I guess I can sell it at anytime, but if I sell it, it’s gone. I’m going to use this thread for help from everyone to fix up what needs fixing. Here’s what I know so far, engine has 148 and 147 pounds of compression, starts right up, PO said it would just suddenly cut out, but would start right back up. I had it running 5 or 6 times on the trailer and never cut out once, then I put it on the hose and it cut out while the hose was on, no damage done, I got to the garden hose valve in about 2 seconds and it started right back up. While it was running on the hose I didn’t notice any water coming from the pisser? When I took the gas cap off of it when I got home, it blew the gas cap up about 2 inches so I’m going to check the fuel vent valve. The engine cover is broken where it attaches to the hinge, the plastic from the engine cover is still attached to the hinge. I will post a picture of that tomorrow. The gas shock PN 269500363 Part 2 on the parte fiche I attached is missing and that along with trying to fix the engine cover ( hood) is my first objective so I can keep the hood up. Can someone advice me if I can use any gas shock for this as I’m not sure if PN 269500363 is available or not, I’m going to call BRP tomorrow but I don’t want to pay 250.00 for a gas shock if I can buy one for 30.00. I was going to measure the travel of the shock and go from there. I don’t really know much about gas shocks, is there anything specific I should be looking for when looking for one? Is a gas shock the same thing as a gas shock absorber lol? I’m guessing it is but not sure. Are there pressure ratings of gas shocks? I’m guessing I just want it to slow the hood when closing and provide some support while it’s open? And my other question is, any ideas how to fix the broken engine cover where the hinge attaches to it? Pics of that tomorrow

View attachment 68152View attachment 68153I’m not going to call this thread a project t because I’m not even sure I’m going to keep this, i had myself convinced I was going to go out, wash it up and post it for sale. After washing it up and taking some 1000 grit to a few spots, it was wet and shining and I changed my mind again. I guess I can sell it at anytime, but if I sell it, it’s gone. I’m going to use this thread for help from everyone to fix up what needs fixing. Here’s what I know so far, engine has 148 and 147 pounds of compression, starts right up, PO said it would just suddenly cut out, but would start right back up. I had it running 5 or 6 times on the trailer and never cut out once, then I put it on the hose and it cut out while the hose was on, no damage done, I got to the garden hose valve in about 2 seconds and it started right back up. While it was running on the hose I didn’t notice any water coming from the pisser? When I took the gas cap off of it when I got home, it blew the gas cap up about 2 inches so I’m going to check the fuel vent valve. The engine cover is broken where it attaches to the hinge, the plastic from the engine cover is still attached to the hinge. I will post a picture of that tomorrow. The gas shock PN 269500363 Part 2 on the parte fiche I attached is missing and that along with trying to fix the engine cover ( hood) is my first objective so I can keep the hood up. Can someone advice me if I can use any gas shock for this as I’m not sure if PN 269500363 is available or not, I’m going to call BRP tomorrow but I don’t want to pay 250.00 for a gas shock if I can buy one for 30.00. I was going to measure the travel of the shock and go from there. I don’t really know much about gas shocks, is there anything specific I should be looking for when looking for one? Is a gas shock the same thing as a gas shock absorber lol? I’m guessing it is but not sure. Are there pressure ratings of gas shocks? I’m guessing I just want it to slow the hood when closing and provide some support while it’s open? And my other question is, any ideas how to fix the broken engine cover where the hinge attaches to it? Pics of that tomorrow

Off topic but on the same machine. I have this machine it runs pretty good but I lost the grate that covers the intake jet. I bought another installed it only to realize the threads are destroyed, i used JBL weld and it lasted about 1/2 the summer and I lost the grate again. I'm thinking about drilling it right though and bolting it on. I'm wondering since you had this taken apart if you know if this would be possible, or would the motor be blocking me from drilling through?

 

[mikidymac]

Off topic but on the same machine. I have this machine it runs pretty good but I lost the grate that covers the intake jet. I bought another installed it only to realize the threads are destroyed, i used JBL weld and it lasted about 1/2 the summer and I lost the grate again. I'm thinking about drilling it right though and bolting it on. I'm wondering since you had this taken apart if you know if this would be possible, or would the motor be blocking me from drilling through?

Wouldn't be the motor blocking the forward bolts. It would be the seat support/carrier bearing or fuel tank blocking it.

 

[nambi]

Wouldn't be the motor blocking the forward bolts. It would be the seat support/carrier bearing or fuel tank blocking it.

Wouldn't be the motor blocking the forward bolts. It would be the seat support/carrier bearing or fuel tank blocking it.

OK thanks, With your knowledge drilling though will be obstructed? Sorry my machine at the lake and not near me.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Big Thank you to my friend Mikidyma for my vts nut tool. Picked it up yesterday at myusaddress. Unfortunately once again I’ve had to put the 97XP on the back burner, need to get all the bearings and cv axle boots changed on my 2001 Polaris ATV so I can get out and cut some wood for the winter.