Help with 1997 XP

[burtshaver2021]

I got the interior of the hull pressure washed today. When I was putting the fuel lines on the selector valve, the RES fitting on the valve rotated, not sure if it’s supposed to or not? This selector valve is different than the ones that were on my HX and 95XP, I wondering if it’s original or a cheap aftermarket one? I did vacuum test the selector valve after the fitting rotated and it didn’t lose vacuum so I’m going to go ahead and use it. Hope I don’t regret that decision.

 

[mikidymac]

They shouldn't rotate.
They have been discontinued by Seadoo but I have had good luck with the WSM replacements.

Make sure you replace the 3/32" oil injection lines, I know they are on your list.

 

[burtshaver2021]

They shouldn't rotate.
They have been discontinued by Seadoo but I have had good luck with the WSM replacements.

Make sure you replace the 3/32" oil injection lines, I know they are on your list.

They definitely are on my list, I’ve already checked and I have just enough to do the job, I will probably have about 3 inches of the small oil line left over.

 

[tobytd]

I think this was WSM

 

[mikidymac]

I think this was WSMView attachment 68382

Replace that.

 

[burtshaver2021]

 

[burtshaver2021]

Anyone ever cut one of these pressure relief valves open? Just wondering how they work inside? I’m picturing a ball and a spring in there, where the spring is supposed to give out at 3.5 pounds and allow the ball to move? I took the old black one out and sprayed it out with simple green, then water hose, then compressed air, repeat, then tested it and it’s popping at about 3.5 pounds, then immediately goes to about 2.5 pounds, then over the course of a minute drops to about 1.5 pounds and seems to hold there. The new grey one I had pops at 2.5 pounds and then doesn’t really hold anywhere, just drops to zero over a 20 second time period. I just wanted to see what the opinions on this are? I’m going to check the manual but I’m pretty sure this pressure relief valve is supposed to keep a pound or two of pressure in the tank to help push the fuel to the carb? Neither one lets air in from the other direction which is proper but sucks that the new one doesn’t work as it should. I mean 12.99 USD from OSD or 15.99 CDN from BRP is enough.

 

[mikidymac]

I am pretty sure they are supposed to hold a pound or two. Mine always have a whoosh of pressure when opening the fuel caps.

 

[burtshaver2021]

It’s piece #10 that’s broken right where the bolt for ball joint #1 goes through. I’m just looking through the manual now so I may find my answer but it’s always nice to hear from someone as well as the manual. What all do I need to remove to change piece #10

 

[burtshaver2021]

Hmmm, about 30 seconds since my last post, looks like I only need to disconnect the ball joint no.1 Loosen the gear clamps no.2 remove boot no.3 and loosen nut no.4 using VTS socket tool 295000133. And piece no.10 should come off? Is this socket tool necessary? Or can it be improvised with a different tool?

 

[burtshaver2021]

Looks like it’s a little more involved than I originally thought, is it difficult to get the piece 10 out? As for the vts nut tool, looks like I will need that. I seen an old post on here where the member made the tool by heating up the end of some 1 1/4” schedule 40 pvc and pushing it over the nut, let cool and voila, I made a call to local hardware store and they don’t have that stuff so I’m thinking about looking around in my old scrape steel for some thin wall aluminum or steel pipe. Maybe if I buy a 1 15/16” nut, round the one side of the nut, heat up the 1 1/4” pipe and hammer it over the nut I will have my tool. We will see, I hate to spend 24.99 USD on the tool if I don’t need to.

 

[MAL]

With out the tool you will probably need to make the tool. You could try a large pair of needle nose plyers with a 90 degree tip on them if you have a pair.

Home made socket, you could try to make a tool from PVC pipe (cut notches in the end to fit the nut’s slots). A 1-1/2" or 2" PVC pipe might be the right size. I am not sure. I have seem people make PVC into a socket by heating it and shoving it on the nut that needs to be removed...letting it cool and then using it.

I don't remember what I used, but I don't have the tool, so it wasn't that. I think I used my 90 degree needle nose pliers.

 

[burtshaver2021]

With out the tool you will probably need to make the tool. You could try a large pair of needle nose plyers with a 90 degree tip on them if you have a pair.

Home made socket, you could try to make a tool from PVC pipe (cut notches in the end to fit the nut’s slots). A 1-1/2" or 2" PVC pipe might be the right size. I am not sure. I have seem people make PVC into a socket by heating it and shoving it on the nut that needs to be removed...letting it cool and then using it.

I don't remember what I used, but I don't have the tool, so it wasn't that. I think I used my 90 degree needle nose pliers.

Thanks Mal, is there much torque on that nut? I’m guessing no ?

 

[MAL]

Thanks Mal, is there much torque on that nut? I’m guessing no ?

It is a plastic nut isn't it? I think silicone sealant might be a bigger issue than torque. You could try a thin walled steel pipe, but it all depends on what you have lying around, otherwise you are better off buying the right tool instead of heading to the hardware store. I think I used my needle nose pliers.

 

[MAL]

I missed your post number 36 while I was typing post 37. You have already seem my Ideas.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I missed your post number 36 while I was typing post 37. You have already seem my Ideas.

I’ve seen your ideas, Thank you, I will see if I can find anything laying around this afternoon. I will try the needle nose first, maybe a crescent wrench?

 

[tobytd]

Got a crowfoot wrench?
Will one fit in there?

 

[burtshaver2021]

I don’t have a crow foot set, oddly I would consider buying that set but I don’t seem to want to buy the specialty tool, lol.

 

[mikidymac]

Let me check the attic, I made a bunch of the PVC tools years ago but nobody wanted to buy them.
If all else fails you can pull the pump and use channel lock pliers.

FOR SALE Thread 'VTS Nut Tool'

Jun 22, 2018

I got a little crazy in the garage last night since I have thousands of feet of pipe at work and a little spare time. Honestly these are easy to make but if anyone wants one let me know. I’m thinking maybe $5 plus shipping? Let me know. I found out they fit in a Flat rate envelope so shipping is $7.60. Total will be $12.50.

• mikidymac
• Replies: 1
• Forum: Buy/Sell/Trade Sea-Doo Related

I will have to check on shipping but $5 is still fine if I have them.

 

[MAL]

New idea. You could cut the appropriate size socket in half and couple it back together with a sliced pipe or stiff hose of some sort...or weld a pipe into the center section of the socket. Think custom deeeep well.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Let me check the attic

Thanks Miki, have a look if you like but don’t worry if you can’t find them. I probably will be to impatient to wait on the shipping and get something made up in the meantime anyways

You could cut the appropriate size socket in half and couple it back together with a sliced pipe or stiff hose of some sort...or weld a pipe into the center section of the socket. Think custom deeeep well

i actually thought of that, but then when I looked up the price of a 1 15/16 socket which was 24.99 I think, I might as well just buy the tool. Originally my thought on that was to cut the socket in half and weld the pieces to each end of the pipe but yea, the special tool is no more expensive. I’m done work now, I think I need to burn a tank of gas through the 99GSXRfI today

 

[burtshaver2021]

Got it home with absolutely no issues at the borders. It’s a 99 and I absolutely love the colour scheme. I’m thinking this is the model year I would like with the 951. I was going to strip this and get rid of the hull but the hull is in such good condition I think I will keep it. Just in case a 99 XP comes along and I need it. Pretty much everything I need for my 97XP is here except that slide piece for the trim, it’s broke on this one too.

 

[mikidymac]

View attachment 68406Got it home with absolutely no issues at the borders. It’s a 99 and I absolutely love the colour scheme. I’m thinking this is the model year I would like with the 951. I was going to strip this and get rid of the hull but the hull is in such good condition I think I will keep it. Just in case a 99 XP comes along and I need it. Pretty much everything I need for my 97XP is here except that slide piece for the trim, it’s broke on this one too.

Well, I can tell you from having a 1997 XP brand new and stock in 1997 then sending the engine to Group K for a Sleeper kit then getting a 2001 XP.....
Stop wasting your time and money on the 1997. I hate to say it but that 1997 was supposed to get the brand new 951 from the beginning but the engine wasn't ready so that is why it was a 1 year model.
Once you ride the 97+ hull with the 951 you will see why. Nothing pulls like the midrange of a 951 and it is a hull with a lot of wetted area and drag so it needs the additional torque of the 951 to pull it hard around a turn. The inside lean hull, spring in the seat and the 951 you can feel it actually load the hull and pump in a turn.

For stupid fun shenanigans in smooth water I always bring the 96' XP.
For hard railing turns and top speed, nothing comes close to my XP 951.

Yes, the 1998+ XP is that good.

 

[burtshaver2021]

Well, I can tell you from having a 1997 XP brand new and stock in 1997 then sending the engine to Group K for a Sleeper kit then getting a 2001 XP.....
Stop wasting your time and money on the 1997. I hate to say it but that 1997 was supposed to get the brand new 951 from the beginning but the engine wasn't ready so that is why it was a 1 year model.
Once you ride the 97+ hull with the 951 you will see why. Nothing pulls like the midrange of a 951 and it is a hull with a lot of wetted area and drag so it needs the additional torque of the 951 to pull it hard around a turn. The inside lean hull, spring in the seat and the 951 you can feel it actually load the hull and pump in a turn.

For stupid fun shenanigans in smooth water I always bring the 96' XP.
For hard railing turns and top speed, nothing comes close to my XP 951.

Yes, the 1998+ XP is that good.

I believe you, I don’t find the 787 in my 97GSX or 99GSX RFI anything spectacular, I mean plenty enough for me cause I’m not a real crazy good driver anyways, I’m happy as long as I get wet while I’m riding. There’s no chance in hell for this one to see the water, I have the engine but it’s not in it, and lots of missing little pieces. As for the 97 being a waste of time. I understand completely what your saying but for me it’s not a waste of time, I don’t mind if I’m all show and no go, but I am going to keep this hull in case I ever come across another complete machine that is rebuildable. Thanks for the input Miki, I always like to hear your thoughts

 

[mikidymac]

View attachment 68407
I believe you, I don’t find the 787 in my 97GSX or 99GSX RFI anything spectacular, I mean plenty enough for me cause I’m not a real crazy good driver anyways, I’m happy as long as I get wet while I’m riding. There’s no chance in hell for this one to see the water, I have the engine but it’s not in it, and lots of missing little pieces. As for the 97 being a waste of time. I understand completely what your saying but for me it’s not a waste of time, I don’t mind if I’m all show and no go, but I am going to keep this hull in case I ever come across another complete machine that is rebuildable. Thanks for the input Miki, I always like to hear your thoughts

Don't get me wrong, I still love the 97' XP, it was my first Seadoo and it is fun. Two of my friends still have them and ride them all the time. The inside lean is awesome.
My friends love theirs.... Until I hose them with the 01' and take off, no chance of catching me so I always get the last laugh.

You definitely want the VTS working on the 97+ hull as it completely changes the way the ski rides.