Does 96 speedster have 2 oil injection pumps? How to replace?

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I ordered a used pump that I’m pretty sure will work but after looking around, I can barely see what I think is the oil pump underneath the carbs on the one engine but can’t see if there is another separate pump on the 2nd engine and more than anything how the heck do I get at them to test/change?

My tank actually has a tiny bit of oil left at the bottom but the lines seem dry.

I’d like to order all new lines as well. Are they any particular special lines or?

Thanks so much

Donnie
 
Yes... each engine has an oil pump. If they were running dy because someone was running premix... then they both need to replaced.

I like Tygon hoses for all the small hoses. The larger ones can be replaced with chemical grade vinyl. As far as I know... there isn't any hose kits out there.

Oh... there is also 2 oil filters on that boat. I would replace them too.
 
Thanks so much.

Now of course I can’t find another pump for sale.. :(


I’ll keep looking.


Is there a how to anywhere or is there a trick to replacing these things?

How do I remove the intake manifold? That seems to be the best way to get at it?

Donnie
 
Thank you so much. Wish I would’ve known this a couple days earlier :)

I just bought 3 separate ones and will have to return 2 then buy one more correct one from these guys more than likely. Oh well, I just want to get this thing running really well and have everything work that is supposed to.
 
Still haven't had a chance to call westside powersports. Was out all day yesterday buffing on the gel coat, checking fuses, replacing cleats, cleaning vinyl etc.

I'm pretty confident that I can swap the oil pumps on my own and get the bleeding process complete/lines replaced.

Has anyone replaced one of these pumps with engines still in the boat?

The easiest way I'm thinking is to remove the intake manifold and carbs...? My fear is that I keep hearing about the "rotary valve" and it falling off or something when I remove the oil pump or intake manifold?

Thanks so much for any more advice,

Donnie
 
Also, I just spoke with the local jetski repair facility...the guy who answered the phone said that he personally hadn't worked on these engines but that his boss has. He said that if I replace the oil pumps and they haven't been used....that the "Rave" valve(s) were bad and would need to be changed?

Does this sound legit and if so, are they behind the oil pump or where are they located?

Donnie

He quoted me 4 hour labor per engine @ $110/hour so I'm thinking that I'll try to tackle myself.
 
Also, I just spoke with the local jetski repair facility...the guy who answered the phone said that he personally hadn't worked on these engines but that his boss has. He said that if I replace the oil pumps and they haven't been used....that the "Rave" valve(s) were bad and would need to be changed?

Does this sound legit and if so, are they behind the oil pump or where are they located?

Donnie

He quoted me 4 hour labor per engine @ $110/hour so I'm thinking that I'll try to tackle myself.

Oh my God !!!!! How can they call themselves a Jetski shop???? First... if they haven't worked on the mid 90's Seadoo engines..... I don't even know how to comment, but don't let them experiment with yours. Besides the 720 and 800 Seadoo engine has to be the most common PWC engine out there. (in the most skis) Second... the RAVE valves have NOTHING to do with the oil pumps. That comment just shows how little they know and that they shouldn't be working on stuff. Third... and most important... Your 96 speedster has a couple 720 engines. THEY DON"T HAVE RAVE VALVES !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Run... don't walk... away from that shop.
 
Thanks so much Tony! The guy sounded very incompetent with this type of engine and it was worrying.

I've pretty mechanically inclined and will get this figured out on my own. Just really wish the previous owner would have used the oil injection...

Do you happen to know if it's easier to change these oil pumps out by removing the intake manifold?


Between the 2 oil pumps and re-building the jet pumps and re-sealing the pump shoes...I can tell this is going to be a decent project. Hopefully in a couple months I can have it all close to like it was when new and functioning properly.
 
And your post/thread on the replacement rub rail is awesome. I'm also in the process of restoring the hull/interior of our little speedster.
 
Another question...when I go to remove the oil pumps, intake/carbs...is there anything behind the oil pump to watch out for? Anything unusual I mean that could fall into the motor or out of timing or anything?

Thanks,

Donnie
 
Nope... it's a pretty easy swap. If you take the carbs off... it may give you a little more room... but I wouldn't remove the manifolds. There is a gear on the end of the pump, that is driven from the rotary valve shaft. But it really can't go anywhere.
 
Thanks man. So you would just leave carbs on, reach down under and pop the two bolts out? Then remove the lines once you could move it upwards a little bit?

I’ll remove the airboxes though and spark arrestors I assume?
 
I would leave the rotary cover on so the rotary valve doesn't fall off but you will have to remove the intake manifold to get to the oil pump drive gear. I would order new intake manifold o-rings here, o-ring link.
 
Thanks so much for the advice. Do I need to get to the oil pump drive gear?

Will order the new O-rings today! Thanks again

DZ
 
Are you saying just order and swap out the oil pump drive gears? Asking because my oil tank has been essentially dry for an unknown amount of time..
 
That link shows them as out of stock. I went ahead and ordered 2 with the exact same part numbers from a seller on ebay with good feedback and a 60 day return policy :)
 
If you are adding and/or swapping oil pumps then you have to pull the intake manifold to get to the plastic gear bolted to the back side of it or it will not come off.
 
I am swapping the pumps for new ones as the 2 I have mounted on it now have been unused for an unknown period of time.

I'll just pull the intake manifolds..anything I should know before diving in and pulling the carbs and manifolds?

Got down to the spark arrestor base the other night while looking for an air filter to clean...I stopped there and put it back together because it was getting dark.

I ordered 2 pumps that are on the way in the mail. One pump I have coming has the gear with it, the other one does not. Should I buy a new gear for that one as well?
 
Okay thanks again. So, should I still remove the intake manifolds even though the pump has not seized?

Sorry for all the questions...planning on digging in on Thursday
 
Yes, you have to remove the intake manifold but not the rotary valve cover. The oil pump shaft goes through the intake manifold and is driven by a nylon gear. It you don't pull the intake you can't get the 10mm nut off that holds the nylon gear on the shaft and the pump will not come out of the intake manifold.

So, yes, you have to pull the intake manifold to remove the oil pump.
 
Not sure about the boats but on a ski you are talking less than 20 minutes to get the manifold off.
 
Thanks so much. The boats are definitely harder to get down into than the skis. I've never worked on a ski but this inboard motor is definitely not easy to work on when you're 6'4". The manifold will probably come off within about 20 minutes but I'll have to pay attention to linkage etc since it's first time I'll be removing it. Then I'll have to do it all twice on the other engine. :)

I really cannot thank you guys all enough for the guidance on this. I've read the fuel and oil system sections of the owners manual about 3 times and will read a few more before this Thursday when I have some time off.
 
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