Carbon seal cooling while on the trailer

[Mike99]

Has anyone tried to cool their carbon seal with water when running the engine for an extended period on the trailer? Seems to me it wouldn't take a lot of water if it was well directed. Thoughts?

Mike

 

[Coastiejoe]

Yep, many have...

Two methods. Fill the hull to above the carbon seal or get a second hose and spray onto it from underneath the ski.

 

[AdamXP800]

I've seen people use a spray bottle with a little soapy water in it to wet it down while running

 

[68ragtop]

When I worked ate on my 4tec GTX, I couldn't remove the retaining clip on the seal to run it on the trailer because its need to keep the driveshaft in the engine. I ran a second hose to the ski, zip tied it so it trickled water onto the seal. Worked perfect. Sprays a little water around, but keeps it perfectly cool. However, not sure how well it lubricates anything, so its still probably best to keep the running to a minimum.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Another option is to pull the boot away and wire-tie it so it doesn't touch the carbon seal. Then it doesn't have any wear or heat concerns.

 

[kicker]

Another option is to pull the boot away and wire-tie it so it doesn't touch the carbon seal. Then it doesn't have any wear or heat concerns.

:agree: By far the best option.
If I am not running to long or to lazy to pull the ring back, I will use the soapy water in a spray bottle, it works fine for 2 minutes. Not sure I would want to go longer then that.

 

[68ragtop]

Ive done that on my 2 strokes as well. slid a ziptie under the hose clamp.
On my 4tec, the boot keeps pressure on the seal, that in turn keeps the driveshaft in the engine. I mistakenly popped the clip off, & the driveshaft slid back from the engine & oil started pouring out. Thats a goofy setup IMO.

 

[68ragtop]

Another option is to pull the boot away and wire-tie it so it doesn't touch the carbon seal. Then it doesn't have any wear or heat concerns.

Like this? This was on my XP. there wasn't any room to let the ring go forward by removing the clip so I zip tied it.

 

[kicker]

Nice solution buddy.:thumbsup: Fortunately most of the skis now have room to slide that SS ring forward.

 

[Mike99]

Great ideas! Thanks for the comments!

Mike

 

[CReynoldsMIZ]

Step one. Grab a water bottle or a cup of water. Step two, pour some on it while running. Keeps it cool. Easy peasy

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

and the purpose of running it out of water for more than 60 seconds..?

 

[LouDoo]

:agree: Exactly, I was going to ask the same question, about all you can tell on the trailer if it's going to start and run, you should be able to do this in under 60 secs.

Lou

 

[Spimothy Leary]

and the purpose of running it out of water for more than 60 seconds..?

:agree: Exactly, I was going to ask the same question, about all you can tell on the trailer if it's going to start and run, you should be able to do this in under 60 secs.

Lou

and i'll 3rd the question there. I was literally going to type the exact same thing...

I've never run mine for much more than 30 seconds max, never had a reason to, except maybe tiny idle adjustments

 

[kicker]

After I install a motor I like to check for leaks in the fuel and cooling system and adjust the idle,,,,,,,takes more then 30 seconds. One of my kids squirts the seal as I check everything.

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[SEA-MONSTER]

I like running my machines a few minutes on the hose, because I only run on salt water.

 

[Coastiejoe]

There are many legit reasons to run on a hose. It just comes down to how long...

I have never had the need as of yet. I run in Lake Erie. I charge and start them once at the beginning of the season for maybe 10 seconds if that. At the end of the day when I get them on the trail I start them to blow the lake water out of my exhaust and heat exchanger...

If I move to salt water then I will change my system...

 

[Spimothy Leary]

hmmm, maybe I need to flush longer then, i'm probably flushing for 2 minutes ish max. ? If I'm runnning fresh water I dont' flush.

I hit it with 15 seconds of fresh, dial to salt-a-way for maybe a minute, then back to 15-30 seconds of fresh and i'm done.

not enough ?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Unless you do something about the Carbon seal, you really can't run on a hose for more than a minute.

 

[Spimothy Leary]

I don't have carbon seals on my ski's (assuming you were answering my question...)

it was more of a generic question, I run maybe 20% pure salt, 20% pure fresh, and 60% brackish...

if I run in fresh, I don't flush , period. but my salt/brackish routine is still probably 1.5 to 2.0 minutes max.

I've always been pretty comfortable in the 1-2 minute range when flushing, never thought flushing longer would contribute in a positive way.. maybe i'm wrong.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I don't have carbon seals on my ski's (assuming you were answering my question...)

it was more of a generic question, I run maybe 20% pure salt, 20% pure fresh, and 60% brackish...

if I run in fresh, I don't flush , period. but my salt/brackish routine is still probably 1.5 to 2.0 minutes max.

I've always been pretty comfortable in the 1-2 minute range when flushing, never thought flushing longer would contribute in a positive way.. maybe i'm wrong.

I was, just assumed as that's what we were all talking about...

I think you are good with your flush times. You have good knowledge in regards to your skis. What you have done has worked thus far...

I am VERY spoiled running only in fresh water. On the flip side of that,,, running in the ocean is beautiful. And ocean fishing is much better...

 

[Spimothy Leary]

no worries, I was just curious, not even sure when/how I developed the idea behind the length of time, perhaps 5 years ago when I got my first SD perhaps, but even on my old yami I think I always kept it under 2 minutes or so just by default.

my theory is this, if it makes any sense, since I use salt-a-way, and it bubbles, I know exactly when it has circulated through the system, I see the bubbles coming out of the pissers and the rear, and I run it like that about a minute or so with a brap or two, then dial back to fresh on the adapter, and wait for the bubbles to stop coming out, then i'm done, brap, turn water off, brap brap, shut engine off. pull around to garage, one more quick start and brap, and never think about it again.

just made me wonder if under 2 minutes of flushing was enough, since apparently some people are flushing for longer periods.

I've had a couple of top end's done over the years and i've never spotted any salt related issues on the head or in the cyl jackets and I haven't really changed my methods