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99 GSX Limited - Can't get it working, even after taking it to Seadoo

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Fish1

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Hey guys,

I purchased a 99 GSX Limited towards the end of last season from a airline mechanic that rebuilt the top and bottom. He also change several hoses that previously blew due to pressure. he also replaced the crank shaft and the pistons.

This was all done over the off season and it sat around until a few weeks ago when I put it in the water.

1st ride -
I added oil to the gas tank.
Put it in the water and it was very difficult to start, but I eventually got it started. It wouldn't run over 1/4 throttle and if I held it at 1/4 throttle for more than a second the engine would start to die. I had to keep feathering between no throttle and a 1/4 throttle to try to keep the engine running. I got it back to the dock and tied it up. I then left it there for a few hours and when I went back it was 2/3 under water. It was sinking!. I was able to get it up on the ride on dock and drain the water.

I took it to Seadoo and had them work on it.

They said it was sinking because the guy didn't connect a coolant hose and there was basically a big whole in the hull. They said the problem with the throttle was that a couple things weren't install properly and they fixed everything and I was good to go.

2nd ride -
I got it back from Seadoo and put it in the water. SAME problem with throttle. It wouldn't go over 1/4 throttle and would quickly die if I tried to hold it at 1/4 throttle. I took it right back out of the water and told Seadoo they needed to come back and get it.

They said they missed some issues with the carbs and were going to put in a couple carb rebuild kits.

3rd ride -
I put it in the water and it actually appeared to be running fine. I began the break-in ride to break in the rebuilt top and bottom. I started out varying the throttle between 1/3 throttle and no throttle for 15 minutes on, then 15 minutes off to let it cool down. During this time it ran fine!

I did this break in process a few times (15 min.on, 15 minutes cool down) then increased the throttle up to about 2/3 or so (still varying the throttle). This is when it started acting up. It started to bog down a little hear and there. I would have to lay off the throttle and slowly give it more to get it back up and running.

It then started to die on me and was difficult to restart when it would. When I would go try to restart it, the maintenance light on the display would light up.

I wasn't far from the dock so I got it back and will be telling Seadoo to come get it for a 3rd time.



Any ideas what the real problem with this ski could be? I'm loosing confidence in them. Is there anything that jumps out as a good possibility? Should I have Seadoo check anything specific to help them look in the right direction to get this fixed once and for all?


Thanks!
 
When it starts to bog and die, pull the choke out a little and see if it picks up. If it does, the you are running lean and are essentially wrecking your new top end. Also, Pull the plugs and see what they look like. Black and goey= rich. White or light tan is lean. You want a mid-dark brown looking plug.

Id be taking back to seadoo and I wouldn't pay them a dime if you've had it in twice and still have problems. Tell them they need to take it on a water test and don't take no for an answer. If they resist, simply ask for your money back for the labour. Screwing around with crappy dealer mechanics is what pushed me to learn work on my own toys. I will never take any of my toys to a shop. Large or small.
 
Once I got it back the last time (3rd ride) I ran it for a while before running into the mentioned bogging down issues. At that time, I changed the plugs. They were black in color, but not wet with oil or anything. Just a dry black.

Changing them didn't seem to do much.
 
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If you are running premix for your break in, they will be dark. If you take the ski out again, play with the choke. If it helps, take it back and you can be able to say "the carbs are too lean/rich" If you do a little ressearch and can tell them what is wrong, you'll be far better off then saying, "It doesnt run well, fix it". Mind you in this case, they should be dealing with it regardless. Sounds like you have a good 400$ plus tied up in the dealer.

And Squirrel, I understand sloppy seconds. I worked at a merc and evinrude dealer and you wouldnt beleive the stuff I've seen. But at the end of the day, If a shop is charging a premium to fix a customers ski/ engine, they should stand behind the repair. Don't just throw parts at it and kick it out the door calling it a pisspot. Sometimes things are not worth repair, but in this case, with a new rebuilt engine, It is just lack of professionalism. If I had something come back once, I would be all over that thing and making sure it is perfect and doesn't come back ever again. But to have it come back for a third time within one ride out..that just shows poor workmanship.
 
Yes, I'm running premix along with the regular oil from the oil lines. I added 3 cups of oil to the 15 gallon tank. So it sounds like the plugs are what should be expected. Black and mostly dry, right?

The dealership has been very fair. I'm in for a total of $500. This included:
* Changing the gray fuel lines out per my request due to you guys on this forum, when I originally brought it in).
* Found the source of the leak which almost sank my ski (coolant hose not attached). Drained and checked everything to make sure it would not happen again. (It hasn't)
* Preseason tune up (not sure what this entails)
* correct some minor errors the original owner made when installing the top end.

The 2nd trip was no charge. (the carb rebuild kits)

Is there a difference between rebuilding the carbs and the carb rebuild kits? Could the carbs be actually need a full rebuild due to sitting all winter with a full tank of gas (and the gray fuel lines)?

Does anyone have any idea what could be the main issue at this point. As BiRkS_ suggested, I'd like to be able to point them in the right direction if possible.

Thanks all!!!
 
This is the problem with the dealers. They don't know their left from right and don't give 2 shitz about these old ski. Give me 5 guys from this forum and you would have the most reasonable, fastest and most reliable shop in the whole US. Dealers, psssh more like stealerships.

The carb rebuild kits is pretty much a full rebuild. There really isn't a lot of parts in a carb
 
I don't rebuild carbs any more, I replace them. they are $400 new vs $100+ rebuild. they are also, in your case, 14 years old...

without seeing it in person, and knowing someone else messed w/it first... this won't be fun... :( sorry.
 
Got the bad news from Seadoo.

When the engine gets up to temperature, it starts to seize. They told me I will need a new engine. The engine $1,600 or so+ 8 hours of labor $960 (4 hours in, 4 hours out @ $120 per hr.) will be over $2,500. Hell, that's more than the darn thing is worth!

Since spending $2,500+ on this thing isn't a great option, I figure I'd turn to this forum to see if this is my only option, if if anyone has any other ideas to try.

Thanks again all!
 
4 hrs to remove....that's dumb. A buddy and I took about 90 minutes to remove a 3 cylinder motor from a yamaha.

Did they tell you what's wrong with your motor????

Maybe something simple to correct with the help of this forum......I have both the same skis as you so I'm paying attention to this thread.

even if you need a new motor, a rebuilt motor, SBT is only about $1200 with your labor
 
Do a compression test if its still 140-150 then the engine is most likely still good, But yes it could be seizeing id check the oil lines and make sure their bled.

Sounds like they might be trying to get rid of you...
 
You can pull a 951 in an hour if you know what your doing and have your shop/tools prepped. (and hussle) 2 hours is about norm.

But yea, if you've never done it before, ever, I could see 4 hours.

that time could include the fact that they don't know what else was changed, but if your changing the engine out, that shouldn't be too bad. also supplies (RTV, lube, etc) gaskets

also testing / tuning time. I won't sell a ski I haven't broken in. No thanks. I run at least 1 tank before sale.
 
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Seadoobuddy said:
Did they tell you what's wrong with your motor????
Click to expand...

Only that " it starts to seize when the engine gets up to temperature (could be a result of a number of things)". Should they know more of exactly what is wrong with it?

dsteinmann said:
Do a compression test if its still 140-150 then the engine is most likely still good, But yes it could be seizeing id check the oil lines and make sure their bled.

Sounds like they might be trying to get rid of you...
Click to expand...

They said both cylinders had a compression of 135 last time in the shop. They also said the compression was still good this time although I didn't ask specifically what it was.
 
have you spoken to the mechanic that rebuilt the top and bottom end of the motor? did a dealership(stealership) rebuild the motor?
 
SabrToothSqrl said:
Sounds like your airplane mechanic is not a marine mechanic.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is becoming very apparent he is not a marine mechanic. nice guy, but not the right guy to rebuild a ski.

97GtxMan1687 said:
have you spoken to the mechanic that rebuilt the top and bottom end of the motor? did a dealership(stealership) rebuild the motor?
Click to expand...

I purchased it from an airline mechanic. Nice guy and very fair (as he did extra work trying to get things fixed after the sale), but it's clear there is a big difference between an airline mechanic and a seadoo mechanic.

I'm trying to find out if it's still under warranty right now. Fingers crossed...!!!

It was purchased from the online site www.fullboreonline.com in Alpena, MI
 
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