• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

97 XP hull fills with water after capsizing.

Status
Not open for further replies.
hexec

hexec

New Member
First of all, I just purchased this ski and I'm fairly new to PWC's, so please be easy with me. Took it out today for the first time and found it to be very unstable and I tipped it over. I flipped it back over fairly easily but I could not get back on without it tipping again. I found that the hull was flooded with water. I figured that it was so unstable due to the water in the hull. Pulled it out of the lake to drain it and put it right back into the lake. With the engine idling I monitored the water level in the hull. It was dry. Ran it full out for a bit and it was still dry. I did a slow speed donut and it flipped over again. This ski seems to want to be in full motion to stay upright. Anyway, flipped the ski back and found that the hull was full of water again. I noticed that the engine was still running while the ski was capsized then it cut out. I'm pretty sure the key was pulled out almost immediately. My question is how does the hull fill up with so much water so fast? The back panel seal has a 3" section that is detached from the body, but there is no way that much water gets in through that space. Next I was thinking that the engine is drawing mass amounts of water into the hull while its capsized. Is it possible that the engine is drawing the water in through the submerged air vents?

I understand that this model is tippie and takes some skill to prevent capsizing. I'm ok with that. I will eventually learn to keep the damn thing for flipping over. What I'm not ok with is the hull filling with water which makes it impossible to reboard without tipping again because of the weight of the water. I cannot deal with having to be toed out every time I capsize.

Any help would be appreciated. What could be causing this condition?
 
Most Jetskis will take on some water when flipped over... but not so much that it would be hard to reboard. I don't have personal experience with the "Spring seat" XP's, since I've never owned one... but I've ridden them a bunch of times... but I've never heard of people saying that they take on an over abundance of water. Also, I've never heard people saying that they are unstable. (with one rider)

I would continue to check the hull while ridding... and add an electric bilge pump. That way, it can pump the bilge dry before you get back on.
 
when u lift the hood there is two hole on the left and right of the gas filler neck there should be two hoses in there that go down towards the bottom of the hull so when it flips over the water level would be higher then the two holes allowin the ski to fill with water
 
I checked the hull after riding easy and riding hard. Under any riding condition I lift the hood to check the hull for water and I find it totally dry. I'm convinced that the hull fills with water when it capsizes.

I've got to check into what your saying KorzerXP. That sounds like an interesting reason, but how do you prevent the hull from filling when its capsized?
 
i dont get any water in my ski and i prob flip it at least once every time out if those hose are missing u will need to get them i think they are missing and thats the reason you are taking on water
 
Vent tubes are not missing. They do run to the bottom of the hull.

I'm concerned about the length of time that the engine remained running while capsized. I would have expected it to shut off immediately when I entered the water. Could the engine draw water into the hull while capsized.

Also, can I get some confirmation that the XP is as tippie as I'm experiencing. Both times I capsized, I was moving very slowly during a sharp turn (I think left both times). I just never expected it to tip so easily and it caught me off guard.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I own 2 '97 XP's and I will say that they do take on some water when rolled over. The XP is a ski that's very difficult to board in deep water even without water in the hull. Check your seals around both compartments and make sure they are not broken or missing. Try to get in a habit of lifting up the rear access cover to see where your water level is. When roll the ski over while turning how fast are you going?
 
When the ski is upside down, it will take on massive amounts of water very quickly, flip it upright right away the correct direction or you will get water in the motor.

Yes, it's tippy and yes, you'll get used to it. Everything sounds normal, electric bilge pumps were added 99 which do help, it will empty the hull as soon as you get it back upright.
 
Okay, thanks everyone..........I get it........I'm just a beginner loser and I need to add a bilge pump:blush:

Any recommendations on pumps (auto vs manual)?
 
Every one has a preference... but I like a manual pump. BUT... it may be hard to get to the swich if you are swimming.

On my Polaris... the bilge pump runs as soon as the engine starts. (so it's allays running) So... you can look for a 100% duty pump also.
 
My factory one was shot, I got a RULE something. it spins every 30 seconds and if it finds water, it runs for 90 seconds, then checks again.

mine has the factory hookups that are 12v DC when the engine is running. I dont know if your older one would have this available. I wish i had gone w/a full duty one, so it would just run whenever the engine is on... that 30-60 seconds before it 'checks' for water can seem like an eternity!


http://www.google.com/products/cata...YLpgQfJiLVY&ved=0CDsQ8wIwAw&biw=1007&bih=523#

I think that's what I put in mine... which is what the factory uses I believe.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
where do you guys usually route the output to on models not equipped with it from the factory? (I assume you would use one of the bailer tubes or something) I was thinking about grabbing a few for mine as a supplement to the bailers.
 
On my Polaris... it goes right out the back. It's easy to drill a hole there, and it's above the water line. (so water doesn't drain back into it)



88.jpg
 
Mine had a factory hose. it loops way up inside it under the seat, then goes back below the water line and exits near where the exhaust exits... that way water can't get back in, but you can't see it...

if I were to add a pump, you'd want the shortest run, and to have it exit above the water line... which on an XP is prolly the front 1/2 of the ski lol.

I would not go into the balers as they pull a siphon and it would screw all sorts of stuff up.... you need to make a new hole...
 
Purchased a bilge pump kit with a separate float switch. I'm having a hard time determining where to drill the flush hole. There doesn't seem to be an ideal location on the XP 800. I would be interested to hear from someone who has installed a pump on an XP. I'm thinking of bundling a section of tubing inside the back hatch. Connecting the pump to a manual switch instead of the float switch. When I need to flush water out of the hull due to capsizing, I just reach into the hatch and pull out the tubing and toggle the switch. When enough water has been pumped out to allow me to re-board a little easier, just toggle the pump off, close the hatch and board. This is dangerous because if the ski capsizes again due to a wave while the hatch is open, then your in real trouble. I prefer to properly install the pump. Any ideas?
 
ski-d00 said:
When the ski is upside down, it will take on massive amounts of water very quickly, flip it upright right away the correct direction or you will get water in the motor.

Yes, it's tippy and yes, you'll get used to it. Everything sounds normal, electric bilge pumps were added 99 which do help, it will empty the hull as soon as you get it back upright.
Click to expand...
Fixed all of my seals. The rear panel was sitting loosely on the rubber seal. And the rear seal was disconnected in 2 places for about 5" each section. The front hood seal was not making full contact with the engine compartment. I added a 'D' seal underneath the utility tray which caused a nice tight seal of the entire system. The 2 breather hoses that extend into the hood do not have seals on them. I pulled the hose up higher so that they at least make contact with the hood holes. I would expect them to have large o-rings on the tube ends or a rubber seal on the hood holes.

Anyway, it should not take in as much water as it did before. I still want to fix the breather tubes. That sort of still bothers me a bit.

ski-d00, were does the bilge pump exit on your 2001 XP?
 
The newer XPs with factory bilge pumps exit through the pump shoe, your pump shoe should have the same spot but it will not have a through hole in it, you could drill this out and use it easy enough. The 99 GSXL exits near the exhaust exit by the pump which you could do as well. The only thing you have to be careful about having an exit below or near the water line is to make sure you loop the line high enough so that water doesn't constantly enter the hull. Above the water line is safer but usually doesn't look as nice.
 
Thanks Sea-D00. I can see a spot that looks like a garden hose fitting and its not cut through. The hull is drilled out but the jet pump plate (I think that's what you're calling the shoe) is not drilled. I'll be sure to loop the hose high enough to avoid water coming into the hull. I will also add a simple check value that came with the pump.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Finally had a chance to take the seadoo out for another test run with another rider. I did not want to take this seadoo out on my own without someone helping in case of another flood disaster like the first time. Anyway, let me explain what I did to correct my flooding condition for other XP owners that read this thread. The rear hatch has a rubber seal that was separated at the top and bottom. Some good marine sealant was used to reattach the rubber seal. I also adjusted the hatch so it sits much tighter against the seal. There is no way that water is getting in from the hatch anymore. Second, the engine compartment is sealed by the hood contacting the storage bin and the bin to the haul. The seal at the bottom of the storage bin was so crushed that there was space to allow water to enter the motor space. A run to home depot was all it took to purchase some rubber weather stripping. I removed what was left on the under side of the bin and attached some D shaped self adhering weather stripping. This allowed the bin to seal against the haul and lift the bin high enough to contact the seal on the hood. The last 2 places that needed attention was the 2 air vents that transition from the hood to the haul and the boot that houses the electrical harness and throttle cable. In my opinion there was a poor seal here which can cause a huge amount of water to enter the motor space when capsized. I corrected these 2 areas with a loop of solid foam tubing. The tubing is 3/8" in diameter. I used the same marine adhesive and glued a loop to the space in the hood for the air vents. And I did the same by gluing a loop under the boot at the front of the haul. I felt fairly comfortable that it was as water tight as I could get it now. I didn't install the bilge pump yet. There really isn't a good place on an XP to place the pump exit. Anyway, everything worked like a charm. The first thing we did when we got the ski in the water was tip the ski on purpose and flip it back over (twice). Both times was easy to get back on the ski and it took in a very small amount of water (as expected). Problem solved....:thumbsup: And of course, as soon as you begin riding the bilge is siphoned clean of any water in no time by the natural suction of the water jet stream.:cheers:

btw, I still have the bilge pump and I still want to install it. For now I just want to enjoy this ski. Is 55-57mph about right for a stock XP 800?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the heads up on the seals, and yes... mid to upper 50's is right for an 800 XP. The 951 will get into the low 60's
 
I run 65.5 average of 2 runs up then down stream, but I have a 951 that's a bit tweaked ;)

I will most likely do your fix as when I really ride mine hard and pull wheelies and sink it, and nearly barrel roll it, it likes to get water in it usually up over the rear drive shaft... the siphons / electric pump remove it fine, but if I can prevent it from getting in, that would be even better!
 
Off topic, but I have to ask, the newer XP's are equipped with a bigger motor (951) and 20 more horse (130HP). I was told to say away from the 951 because they are not reliable. Not exactly sure why or if its true at all. Any expert advice as I work my way up the seadoo family. I actually wanted to buy a newer XP to start but was advised to stick with the 800. Comments?:confused:

btw, I like the yamaha xl1200 also.
 
the 800 vs 951 is an old debate indeed.

I got 300 hours of my GTX's 951 before it sucked water in and blew up (my fault)... so yea, I think 300 hrs is more than reliable when it was my fault it died.

I've also read the 951 isn't as 'reliable' but now that I own two, and have had the one for 13 years... I see nothing wrong with the 951. I've stayed away from the super charged ones because of reliability and weight. they are just too damn big / heavy for me to really have fun on... but that's another debate!
 
Thanks for the off topic reply. Noobs (like me) have to sponge as much advice as we can. I have to believe that the 951's have proven themselves by now. I don't want to turn this thread into a debate. I think this is an excellent thread for XP noobs with hull breaches to learn from. I hope others gain as much as I did.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

C
water in hull
Replies
12
Views
301
lavasioux
lavasioux
AKnarrowback
Hull weight differences?
Replies
2
Views
200
AKnarrowback
AKnarrowback
S
RX Hull Repair
Replies
0
Views
47
Scheer
S
L
Help with 2000 LRV
Replies
0
Views
106
LRVlvr
L
M
'99 GTX Limited taking on water
Replies
4
Views
316
burtshaver2021
burtshaver2021
Back
Top