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97 sportster fuel guage not working...

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guitarsjm

guitarsjm

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newbie still.... boat is looking great and we are outfitting as grand as we can. after topping off the gas today, realized the fuel guage/oil warning is barely registering the fuel level... it seemed to move slightly..for sure it did, i watched it, but thats it and not sure if it illuminates. checked the gauge fuse, fine, went behind steering console: gauge has a wire bundle of 7 wires, six of which are in colored pairs and terminate into a connector, the 7th wire, blueish, is by itself and has a connector down the line. i can handle a meter if i know what to look for. looked on here but seems most gauge issues are for skis... appreciate the help and really appreciate all the help and advice we have gotten thus far! thanks seadooforum!!!
 
The fuel gage problem isn't anything new to these older boats. Most of us long term owners have had to deal with this a time of two.

If you read through a couple of the threads in the 2 stroke forums, boats and/or skis, you'll find the sticky, along with pix, to test and repair your fuel gage. It would be very rare your problem is up front, that wiring is too protected. The problem is likely in the sending unit in the back.

You can disconnect the plug at the tank, short out the plug with a jumper, put on your lanyard (or push the start/stop button), and see if the gage goes to full. If so, then your problem is in the fuel unit itself.
 
Yep... what he said.

Let me add... on the old boats, the old sender is junk, and they are known to sink. Installing a new blow molded float will probably take care of the problem.
 
thanks...

to find the thread is sometimes a lost battle as there are quite a few and it is very time consuming.... and the stickys.. still dont know exactly what they are... i dont do forums much... until now that is.. so with a little direction and help, i am sure i will be a wiz at it... even though i am a puter wiz, just never got into forums much....

thanks!
 
Dr Honda said:
Look in the "How too" section. Thhere should be a thread on how to change the sender.
Click to expand...

hey thanks Doc... i looked but cant find the how to... i find / found post 'of' that nature, but they seem to be referring to skis and not a 97 sportster jet boat. seems there are differences in the 2... so, if you feel charitable... point me my friend in the correct direction...

thanks
 
No, the basic principle between the skis and boats is the same. I think JPX did one for the HX, with pix. It's a sticky. I found it to be the most helpful the first time I went to repair mine.

No, I have just searched the forum over and can't seem to find that thread. I'd know if it were deleted, but for some reason, it's not there. The forum went through an upgrade a year or two ago, maybe something happened along the way.

Do the test I mentioned above, to see if your gage is responding to the resistance like it's suppose to. Then, you can go from there.
 
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ok my new found sea doo buds... right on with the jumper test... it went to full... so, i lookded down and i can see where the wires go into the tank with hoses and stuff, in the center of tank, there is a round black jacket/bracket... where do i go from there; if you dont mind me asking since i cant find the 'how to' thread and have not enuf bucks left to get the cd service manual. i will order the float one of u guys sent me link for... just need basic how to and i can go from there. friday is order top and sound system, next pay is hydro turf... other than that... we are off and ready to gooooooooooooo!
 
OK guys... i did the jump the plug test and it goes to full... now what? do i order the float? if i do, how does it connect to whats in their that i have no idea of? just lookin for direction so i do it correctly... thanks guys... so far so good....
 
see.. and i DIDNT start another thread (thanks SDB!)...

now... first things first. following excellent instructions from Dr and Lou amongst others, found in line filter/separator.. it was mounted on

'wall' to the left of electric box, hidden behind all the fuel lines. took it down, opened and cleaned it out, cut line, added filter AFTER

separator, put it all back together, started up.. fine.

next was the float. unscrewed clamps, and there was enough room to just get it out without cutting all the hoses, got out assembly

opened baffle, took out old-black float... it had both magnets in it. put new white one in its place, put all back together and....

still didnt work. o well. ok. so, is it more probable that its the fuse issue? or, now be gentle with your answer. i can get a used, but

working baffle assembly from a part out guy for 50.. is that a fair price and a better way to go then to take this apart again, cut it open,

jump the fuse, etc. if there is a chance that doing that may not fix it or sealing it back up may not be done correctly. if i DO try and do

the jump the fuse fix, would you kindly give me that thread that had it in pictures. i thought i had it saved in my bookmarks but i dont.
 
ocod - You asked him to break up his sentences, so he is....right in the middle of them.

You thunk hez ding dhat on porpose?....... :)
 
O.K. back to the subject of this thread, here's the thread on how to fix the fuel baffle. Personally I think I would try to find a working used one. This is just my personal opinion but I don't particularly like the idea of a possible gas leak into the baffle. To me it would pose a potential fire hazard.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...ght-on-when-tank-is-full-(fuel-baffle-sender)

Try PM'ing minnetonka4me see if he has a good used one.

Lou
 
SeaDooLou said:
O.K. back to the subject of this thread, here's the thread on how to fix the fuel baffle. Personally I think I would try to find a working used one. This is just my personal opinion but I don't particularly like the idea of a possible gas leak into the baffle. To me it would pose a potential fire hazard.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...ght-on-when-tank-is-full-(fuel-baffle-sender)

Try PM'ing minnetonka4me see if he has a good used one.

Lou
Click to expand...

EXCELLENT... That's why i ask here! Didnt even think of a fix posing a possible fire hazard. But after reading what you said about a possible
leak, I see how it would be much safer to just get a used one. Will PM minn in a few. Thanks Lou!
 
to attempt or not to attempt (cant wait for the replies to this) to repair shit ass baffle f1 fuse....

so, after blowin 20bucks on float, no big deal could always use a new one, seems the only problem now could be that fuse thats inside the baffle.

some have said its an easy fix; i do models so i have a nice dremel set that can cut anything nice n smooth. and my hands are still good n steady.

the only pain i see is having to cut the fuel lines (marking of course where they go) so i can use screw clamps later in that. so fellas, is it worth it? to reseal the part you have to cut open, is the plastic melt with zip tie the best way to reseal that area or can you use some sort of glue that wont break down in gas.

i can get an entire used baffle, and still have to cut hoses, take it out and all that. just curious as to what your thoughts are. i am leaning to lou's (i think it was) who suggested just get another one and u dont have to worry bout leaks into baffle or fire... so i guess that one wins. just interested if anyone else had done that f1 repair using another method.
 
don't cut the hoses

I have a Mercury motor on my boat but had the same problem with the fuel sender. I thought the hose clamps in there were some kind of permanent crimp like on a hydraulic hose. After closer inspection, is saw that they were not a permanent crimp. Just pry a small tipped screwdriver after the pivot point and they will pop open. After you're done just use a pair of channel locks to snap them tight again. Just make sure you mark or tag each side of every hose connection so that you know how they go back. In my case there were additional connections in each hose approx. 18 inches above the baffle. I opened these clamps and pulled the baffle out with those smaller sections of hose still attached.
After you have the entire baffle assembly out, the hard part is working the rubber outer cover over the wires so that you can cut the hole. Just go slow and use a little lube. There is no reason to cut the uppermost hole in the baffle like the picture shows. Additionally,instead of just soldering across the area after the fuse is out, consider soldering in a small piece solid copper wire instead. This method is easier that forming all of that solder across the void.
I also added an inline fuse with the smallest amperage I could find (400ma) to the harness outside of the sender. The only money I spent was on the fuse and fuse holder.
 
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