speedbuggy67
Active Member
looks great.... eeek gray fuel lines!
Scott
Scott
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RESTO 96 XP Resto Project: Clapped out
- Thread starter racerxxx
- Start date
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Thanks Speedbuggy.
They're on the list, oddly enough they're in good shape internally, they just had a little green goop around the brass nipples, externally. The last sip of gas this thing had was at least 5 years ago which was probably pre-ethanol around here. I think we still had the MTBE in the fuel.
Tasty work as always doubleX. There is no justifying grey fuel lines, they cannot be trusted.
Oh yeah, they're not staying, I wasn't trying to save them that's for sure.
speedbuggy67
Active Member
MIne was last run in 2004 and fortunately my fuel selector valve was clean due to this reason although i still double checked it. Stainless clamps and new fuel line are a must esp since you've gone this far. Many guys recommend a fuel filter inline too i haven't done it but plan on it this winter.
Scott
New fuel selector is only $20. I also like the filter/o-ring kit. Gates 1/4" automotive fuel line has been doing me right.
I am looking forward to the bill. Whatever you have spent is worth in in my opinion.
I am looking forward to the bill. Whatever you have spent is worth in in my opinion.
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
i love the work, but i'd rather see any color other than purple, i just hate purple. i prefer a grey waterbox and a black pipe.
El Toro 33809
Well-Known Member
Boy that looks fantastic!!!
I thought I was reading for a second you were gonna reuse the grey fuel lines....I was gonna say man...the resto you are doing and your gonna skimp on fuel lines??
Thanks again for the biz....I appreciate it!
Thanks again for the biz....I appreciate it!
C'mon Spim, don't be a player hater
Embrace the purple. Yes the selector is going to be replaced, I can get an OEM for less than $25. I may cave and go with automotive fuel line. It will be price dependent. If I can score the real deal(USCG approved) for not much more I'll be going that way. As far as the bill, it is slowly creeping higher, but I'm trying to come in at the asking prices for a 96 XP in my area that is complete with a trailer (I have a double already) and working which is on the from $1500 to $2200. I was trying to stick to a $1,500 budget WITH purchase of said ski, I'm already over. I just got juiced on the carb kits I had to pay $12 more than I originally intended due to no inventory at the first place. I know whoopee $12, but $12 here, $10 there, it drives the bill up. But no matter what it will be a stout piece for sure, even if it doesn't run, HA!
Thanks El Toro!
Well I made the plugs, I finally got some lathe time--work is always getting in the way. They're being welded over the next few days.
If I'm going to restore anything, a car, a ski, a 1925 Player Piano (I have) & keep everything stock, then I want everything original, including the colors.
Now I'm customizing something then anything goes.
CReynoldsMIZ
Well-Known Member
no joke these skis will nickel and dime you to death, it is quite annoying. And if you cant get that ski running, then i have absolutely no chance of getting mine ever running right!
Oh I'm not worried about being nickled and dimed, I've got two kids. You'll do fine with yours, gotta stay positive!
Last edited by a moderator:
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
i have no problem with stock, but not stock purple ! lol even the GSX I bought, the purple goes or I throw the hull away, I won't rebuild a purple ski....
Typically I prefer to use engine paint or wheel paint, I already know this holds up. So, I bought Hi-Temp purple engine paint, it was too dark and didn't like the color. El Toro bought this stuff at Lowe's by Valspar that is so darn close to the OEM purple, it's enamel paint. All I did was bead blast the parts, wiped it down with PPG Ditzo 440 wax and grease remover and then followed up with a wipe down with some cheese cloth(Tack cloth) and sprayed right to the aluminum, no primer. You could use a nice self etching primer if you wanted to but it will change the final color if it's a different color. I have painted direct to the aluminum with great results in the past, ie: the two engines in my Speedster, the one was painted 5 seasons ago and is holding up awesome. I'm also a bit of a clean freak when it comes to the insides of the boat. I wash it after every ride both fresh and salt and use almost a full can of Seadoo lube after each wash. I know WD-40 is cheaper but I love the smell of the Seadoo lube and it stays glossy longer and provides a better build up--IN MY OPINION. Now the Valspar is just regular enamel paint. I sprayed a piece of aluminum and let it dry, then hosed it with Seadoo Lube and let it sit over night and then rubbed as hard as I could and none of the paint transferred to the white cloth. Then I wiped that off with gasoline and with that I had a very, very, very faint bit of purple that transferred to the white cloth, then I wiped the gas off with brake cleaner and that is where it met is maker. So I know from here on out I will not use brake clean around the painted parts and I'll probably use Spray 9 or a citrus based cleaner on the inside, no super clean to clean the inside from here on out, that stuff already warns you that it will discolor items. I'll see how well it holds up, I'm not worried about the heat as the pipe/water box do get screaming hot. If it gets messed up I'll hit my bodyshop supply shop up and get the PPG stuff and lay that down, for now I want to stick to a low budget. The following is a link to the paint.
http://www.valsparspray.com/Product/pcode---4181/index
Here's the engines in my Speedster as seen in this thread about engine paint Click Here
Britrick,
Sorry I missed your post. That cleaned up with the heat gun trick, but would look even better now if I buffed it to a nice gloss finish.
skip the seadoo stuff and get yourself a can of this:
Best stuff EVAR!!! and a little cheaper than the seadoo stuff. Smells good too.
John Deere coats all their machines going overseas in this stuff to fight corrosion. It also works crazy good on snowplow blades.
Surprised I beat Spim to the post...he huffs the stuff
Best stuff EVAR!!! and a little cheaper than the seadoo stuff. Smells good too.
John Deere coats all their machines going overseas in this stuff to fight corrosion. It also works crazy good on snowplow blades.
Surprised I beat Spim to the post...he huffs the stuff
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
skip the seadoo stuff and get yourself a can of this:
Best stuff EVAR!!! and a little cheaper than the seadoo stuff. Smells good too.
John Deere coats all their machines going overseas in this stuff to fight corrosion. It also works crazy good on snowplow blades.
Surprised I beat Spim to the post...he huffs the stuff
lol. I'm a fan...! (actually liked it on facebook too, and I hate facebook !)
I use and love fluild film, and corrosion block as well as my 2nd choice.
i think both are great for even fresh water ski's but if your ski spends any time at all in salt or brackish water, i think that a good product is necessary.
I liked it on FB also quite awhile ago.
But why isn't sold in normal retail stores? It seems to be in Farm equipment place, Marine Surplus (wow, it's $10.95 for a 11.75oz spray can...I'm "might" be going here when in Fl in a couple weeks), etc. ...Nothing that close to me.
Where do you guys buy it at?
But why isn't sold in normal retail stores? It seems to be in Farm equipment place, Marine Surplus (wow, it's $10.95 for a 11.75oz spray can...I'm "might" be going here when in Fl in a couple weeks), etc. ...Nothing that close to me.
Where do you guys buy it at?
mcarp6
New Member
Typically I prefer to use engine paint or wheel paint, I already know this holds up. So, I bought Hi-Temp purple engine paint, it was too dark and didn't like the color. El Toro bought this stuff at Lowe's by Valspar that is so darn close to the OEM purple, it's enamel paint. All I did was bead blast the parts, wiped it down with PPG Ditzo 440 wax and grease remover and then followed up with a wipe down with some cheese cloth(Tack cloth) and sprayed right to the aluminum, no primer. You could use a nice self etching primer if you wanted to but it will change the final color if it's a different color. I have painted direct to the aluminum with great results in the past, ie: the two engines in my Speedster, the one was painted 5 seasons ago and is holding up awesome. I'm also a bit of a clean freak when it comes to the insides of the boat. I wash it after every ride both fresh and salt and use almost a full can of Seadoo lube after each wash. I know WD-40 is cheaper but I love the smell of the Seadoo lube and it stays glossy longer and provides a better build up--IN MY OPINION. Now the Valspar is just regular enamel paint. I sprayed a piece of aluminum and let it dry, then hosed it with Seadoo Lube and let it sit over night and then rubbed as hard as I could and none of the paint transferred to the white cloth. Then I wiped that off with gasoline and with that I had a very, very, very faint bit of purple that transferred to the white cloth, then I wiped the gas off with brake cleaner and that is where it met is maker. So I know from here on out I will not use brake clean around the painted parts and I'll probably use Spray 9 or a citrus based cleaner on the inside, no super clean to clean the inside from here on out, that stuff already warns you that it will discolor items. I'll see how well it holds up, I'm not worried about the heat as the pipe/water box do get screaming hot. If it gets messed up I'll hit my bodyshop supply shop up and get the PPG stuff and lay that down, for now I want to stick to a low budget. The following is a link to the paint.
http://www.valsparspray.com/Product/pcode---4181/index
Here's the engines in my Speedster as seen in this thread about engine paint Click Here
Your The Man !!!! Thanks for the Info because for my rebuild thread I am going to do this. On that link you sent me, is this the color (SATIN SUMPTUOS PURPLE 85025?) Also when you did the caps on the exhaust, was it fora particular reason ? fro the previous owner on mine part of where it is tac welded.....I guess te exhause started to break, but it looks like they used Jb Weld and its been holding up for far.
Fluid film is sold at all john deere dealers or on the net. They will send you free samples too.
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