96 seadoo xp wont rev above idle

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doomann88

doomann88

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thought it was fixed now back to it's old tricks

having an issue where the ski will start and idle really well BUT will not behave above idle. when taking the ski out, it will idlle out past the no wake zone then when you go to give it throttle it just sputters and pops and will not rev any higher. some times the ski will have a moment of glory and get going (all be it rough sounding) up to around 30-40is for maybe 30 seconds but then sputter back out and go back to idling or sometimes die.

this ski sat in a garage for 4 years before i purchased it.

things that have been done to the ski:

ALL 100% STOCK

FUEL:
pulled/drained fuel tank
replaced gray lines
cleaned selector switch
rebuilt carbs, used OEM mikuni kit from OSD marine
pop off checked out at 32psi each carb
fuel pump gets fuel, lines are always full when poping taking them off the carbs.
plugs are a dark wet black, slightly oily
needles set to 1-1/8 on the low and just cracked open on the high

ENGINE/EXHAUST:
compression is 138 mag and 150 pto
cleaned rave valves-verified bellows are in good shape
no visible exhaust leaks

ELECTRICAL:
this ski has been jump started from a running car when i bought it. (AHHH-was a n00b at the time, have not done it since)
the ski did start when jump started, there was no battery in the ski when jump started.
mpem gives 2 beeps and recognizes the key.
mpem shows correct resistances (for what its worth)
all gauges other than fuel work correctly
NEW battery, starter spins quickly and strong.
NEVER had a blown fuse in front E-box
the ski has spark, cant tell if its blue or orange, need to investigate further.
ground on rear coil looks like this:


alright that's what ive got so far, READY GO!
 
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chucked said:
Pull the red wire on the voltage regulator in the front box and see if it starts running ok
Click to expand...

We suggested this in a previous thread to Dooman. I believe he tried this to no avail
 
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Are you sure your "dark wet black, slightly oily" plugs are not fouled? Sounds like a six dollar fix to me.
 
well it showed the same symptoms before and after putting the current "new" plugs in so im not hopeful that the plugs are the issue. ill pick up some new ones though.


i did read where some guy was having a very similar issue on the same model ski and he ended up tracing the white signal wire from the coil to a loose connection (scuzzy bullet connector) before going into the mpem. so i guess ill look into that here tonight.

found here:
http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=292984
 
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Ok updates!

All tests today performed with fresh br8es ngk plugs

Soo tried a new mpem, cdi, coil, pulled rectifier red wire and water tested (didnt have a known good rectifier), trimmed plug wires, Fixed loose ground on coil, double checked compression when its warm came out 140 and 150 .

STILL BOGS AT 30 mph wont go faster.

Then sometimes seems to totally loose spark for a while and after sitting for a bit will come back to life and get the shore.

So I guess its time to open front cover and investigate coil and trigger stuff.
 
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So pulled cover off, stator tested .8 ohms between the the yellows, trigger was 280 ohms, pickup bracket looked ok, and there was not much metal shavings anywhere in there.

Also looked very dry, no water markings or anything inside.
 
All in all I've pretty much eliminated everything but the rectifier. Is it possible for a rectifier to still cause running issues even when the red wire is pulled? I ordered a new one so that is next I guess.
 
I'm suspecting the trigger coil is failing internally or the wires that go from it to the connector on the cover might have a break that only act's up when the engine is vibrating.

Other possibilities are crank seal's, or the flywheel has sheered the key and is stuck just slightly off time and probably advanced the ignition just enough.
 
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On the trigger coil, is one of the mounting screws missing or did you remove it for some reason?

Lou
 
yes i was in the middle of removing the screws when i had the thought to take a picture, they were all there origionally.
 
Make sure you did not swap the fuel lines accidentally. If your trying to run it off the return side of the carbs it will act like that because that is all the tiny return holes in the carb body can flow.

Has the rv cover been taken off since it ran correctly? just making sure they timing has not been altered. The rv clearance could be off.

Back to fuel starving..... how about the O-ring in the top of the fuel filter? Sometimes the fuel selector can draw air in even if it's clean. You can take a 1/4" fuel line with an inline filter in it and run it from the RES fitting on the pickup to the carbs(front carb fitting low and facing forward) just to rule out the filter/bowl and selector.
 
Ok that is a good suggestion on bypassing the first inline filter, I am confident the send and return are correct though.

The ski never ran correctly for me, however all the paint on the bolts on the rv cover is 100% in tact. The cover has never been removed from what I can tell. I stuck my finger in each intake port and turned the crank by hand as to pinch the rv against my finger. Both ports, clock wise and counter clock wise. Rv had very little play to it and would snug up against my finger stuck in the port. This leads me to believe the brass gear is ok? So if rv timing is ok, the only other thing with that could be an out of spec.tollerance, would excessive tollerance in the rv cover cause this running condition possibly?

My new rectifier should be here later this week, I guess my plan will to be throw that on with my new coil ground bolt and bypassed fuel filter and see how she runs, unless there is somethine else I should do as well?

Thanks for all the help so far guys!
 
Would there be any benefit to disconnecting the gages/vts motor? They all seem to work correctly except for fuel because I took the saturated float out. Vts motor has little to zero corrosion on it.
 
Also this is a new battery and when you rev it voltage across the battery drops to 11v with and without the red wire plugged in
 
so did another test ride last night, things that were changed are as follows: new "made in china" rectifier, rear coil lose ground fixed, had pulled the front cover to go through stator and ignition pickup coil.

Results:
idled fine out past the no wake zone, took off and things seemed to be pretty in order, the ski had never run this well before. i could tell there was a slight miss on the top end, still seemed to lose power very briefly while at WOT but now it was occurring around 45-50 mph and only for a brief split second. It was so slight at first I couldn’t tell if I was just jumping out of the water for a second and that’s why I was slowing down.

But any way on to the bad…
About 4-5 minutes in to the ride the slight miss got worse and worse to the point where I was right back to the original symptoms, bogs out anything over ¼ throttle.

While I had the front cover off I did remove the stator and the trigger coil for inspection, both seemed ok. Now the bracket was in a single piece but I guess I could have missed if it was cracking or bent a little bit, who knows? Maybe when I installed it back on it was just a little bit closer to where it was able to pick up better then I hit a few waves, or the heat of the engine warmed up and moved the bracket, im not sure…
 
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