96 seadoo spx 720 wont start ?

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glsmohio

glsmohio

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ok guys just rebuilt the carbs and redone the oil lines....here is the story:

problem 1----Started the engine. held oil pump open to prime the oil lines, shut engine off. ( it wasnt running right like it was fouling plugs.) pulled the plugs and they where full of oil and gas. turned the engine over with plugs out to get every thing out. Put new plugs in and it fired maybe one time for a half a sec. and then nothing. put 3 more sets of plugs in and no start. im getting way to much fuel. so my question is do you think i fu*ked someting up on the carb when rebuilding them or could it be that i reused the base gaskets for the carbs and now i have a vacuum leak? should i try new gaskets?


problem number 2--- when i put the key on i dont get two beeps ( i have installed a new beeper and tested it and it works fine) also when i put the key on my gauges does noting. Now if i take the key off and it the start button two times everything comes to life and it shows me where trim is gas oil temp and all that stuff. My gray ebox had a lot of water in it that i just found (pipe was leaking and spraying the the ebox and where one of the wires go in the box, the seal was broke bad) the pipe is all fixed now and i cleaned up the ebox. all fuses are good (3 in the ebox). I thought when i put the key on it should all come to life...any ideas???

thanks
Scott
 
Some ski's need the start button pushed to "wake up" the ski. If you push the start button BEFORE you put the lanyard on, what happens.

Did you replace the needle and seats? How many turns out are the adjustment screws?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Coastiejoe said:
Some ski's need the start button pushed to "wake up" the ski. If you push the start button BEFORE you put the lanyard on, what happens.

Did you replace the needle and seats? How many turns out are the adjustment screws?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I didnt do needles or seats. I did put the new o-ring on the seats.
I used jet ski plus parts, like i always have

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SeaDoo-Miku...SPX-/291369004226?hash=item43d6f22cc2&vxp=mtr

If you push the button two times before you put the lanyard on it will wake up but still no beep.
 
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Coastiejoe said:
Some ski's need the start button pushed to "wake up" the ski. If you push the start button BEFORE you put the lanyard on, what happens.

Did you replace the needle and seats? How many turns out are the adjustment screws?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

not sure on the adjustment screws. the ski ran fine in the summer, the reason i rebuilt them was i would loose throttle response sometimes, spray a little carb cleaner in it and it would run like a top. later found that the little filters in the carbs where caked full of shit. So got a new fuel tank (free from seadoo) and did the carbs at the same time.
 
I believe you are going to find that there is an issue with the carbs. My guess is, you did a "partial" rebuild and either missed something or created the issue.

Not that this is the issue, but did you also replace or MAJOR clean the fuel selector valve? This is a common failure area due to the Grey Tempo lines you had. It builds up gunk and blocks oil getting to the engine.
 
Coastiejoe said:
I believe you are going to find that there is an issue with the carbs. My guess is, you did a "partial" rebuild and either missed something or created the issue.

Not that this is the issue, but did you also replace or MAJOR clean the fuel selector valve? This is a common failure area due to the Grey Tempo lines you had. It builds up gunk and blocks oil getting to the engine.
Click to expand...

i did not replace the fuel selector valve. i just dont see how that could be my problem if im getting to much fuel. i could see if i wasn't getting fuel at all .....but i learn new things every day
 
glsmohio said:
i did not replace the fuel selector valve. i just dont see how that could be my problem if im getting to much fuel. i could see if i wasn't getting fuel at all .....but i learn new things every day
Click to expand...

It isn't your problem, please re-read my post. I specifically stated it is not your issue. My point is, once you get it running right you can easily damage the engine due to lack of oil. here is what I typed. "Not that this is the issue, but did you also replace or MAJOR clean the fuel selector valve? This is a common failure area due to the Grey Tempo lines you had. It builds up gunk and blocks oil getting to the engine."

When you replace the Grey Tempo lines, you MUST replace or clean the fuel selector valve and doa rebuild of the carbs. As you saw, the filters on the inside of the carbs were pretty well plugged.
 
I'm trying to remember the 96 SPX I bought, I'll check when I get home. But mine didn't have DESS, so you didn't get the double beep. Is your lanyard"switch" spring loaded in the center? If so, it won't beep to the best of my knowledge.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
It sounds to me like your engine is flooding and will not start like you said the plugs are wet and it will not run. I would bet that one or both of your needle and seats are leaking and flooding the engine. The other issue could be the diaphragm that opens the needle. If you did not use OEM ones some of the aftermarket ones are too stiff and will hold the needle open all the time.
 
If you do rebuild the carbs, one item I would not touch is the pop off springs. I have seen MANY do the rebuild only to find the replacement springs are wrong. As long as your originals are not broken, use them.
 
Coastiejoe said:
It isn't your problem, please re-read my post. I specifically stated it is not your issue. My point is, once you get it running right you can easily damage the engine due to lack of oil. here is what I typed. "Not that this is the issue, but did you also replace or MAJOR clean the fuel selector valve? This is a common failure area due to the Grey Tempo lines you had. It builds up gunk and blocks oil getting to the engine."

When you replace the Grey Tempo lines, you MUST replace or clean the fuel selector valve and doa rebuild of the carbs. As you saw, the filters on the inside of the carbs were pretty well plugged.
Click to expand...

i understand what your saying and i did miss read that. sorry castiejoe, i love the info, not trying to make you mad.
 
racerxxx said:
I'm trying to remember the 96 SPX I bought, I'll check when I get home. But mine didn't have DESS, so you didn't get the double beep. Is your lanyard"switch" spring loaded in the center? If so, it won't beep to the best of my knowledge.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

i think it is spring loaded....i will have to check. so would it just beep if it had a problem?? kinda lost on this part.
 
Needles and seats and check bleed down psi with pop off gauge while adjusting needle and seat lever arm.

This is just as important as each carbs pop off. The ability to hold psi.


Rob
 
1983 said:
Needles and seats and check bleed down psi with pop off gauge while adjusting needle and seat lever arm.

This is just as important as each carbs pop off. The ability to hold psi.


Rob
Click to expand...

can you point me in the right way or how to do the pop off test?
 
glsmohio said:
i understand what your saying and i did miss read that. sorry coastiejoe, i love the info, not trying to make you mad.
Click to expand...

You didn't make me mad.. No issues at all. Just wanted to make sure it was clear.

I know a lot about the importance of the parts and the adjustments of the carbs just by all the reading I have done. I have not had a Seadoo carb in my hand as of yet.
 
Well, let me try to help here as it seems things have gotten a little off track.

Problem 2: There is no DESS and no two beeps when you put the lanyard on for the 96 SPX 720, the 96 xp, gtx and gti were the only models that had it that year. The only reason the beeper is even there is for the overheat buzzer although very important to test and have working. Gauges won't come on until it's running or like you describe. Only the DESS system turns on gauges when the lanyard is put on.

Problem 1: Vacuum leak not likely because a vac leak will make the engine rev out of control. It's fine to reuse carb gaskets as long as they are clean and in good shape and not tearing apart. You do need to make sure the gaskets are in the proper position but I'm guessing they're fine. It sounds like something didn't go together quite right with your carb rebuild.
 
ski-d00 said:
well, let me try to help here as it seems things have gotten a little off track.

Problem 2: There is no dess and no two beeps when you put the lanyard on for the 96 spx 720, the 96 xp, gtx and gti were the only models that had it that year. The only reason the beeper is even there is for the overheat buzzer although very important to test and have working. Gauges won't come on until it's running or like you describe. Only the dess system turns on gauges when the lanyard is put on.

Problem 1: Vacuum leak not likely because a vac leak will make the engine rev out of control. It's fine to reuse carb gaskets as long as they are clean and in good shape and not tearing apart. You do need to make sure the gaskets are in the proper position but i'm guessing they're fine. It sounds like something didn't go together quite right with your carb rebuild.
Click to expand...

thanks for the help. Im going to pull the carbs off tonight and see what i got.
 
glsmohio said:
can you point me in the right way or how to do the pop off test?
Click to expand...


Yes, let me find my thread that has what I went through to get mine dialed in and I will post it in here.

What I am getting at is another test that mikuni wants you to do when rebuilding or repairing carbs.

Pop off testing is one thing, to test the psi at which the needle releases from seat.

The psi hold test I am bringing up is pumping the carb up, holding the outlet, and seeing if it will hold 10 psi for a certain amount of seconds without bleeding down psi. If it cant over that period of time then needle and seat are bleeding down psi, which when ski is running, it will be bleeding fuel into carb throat by the butterfly causing an overrich condition, and hard starts ( my issue )


Rob
 
My post #13 on this thread is really where I understood what was going on and why ski was flooding and causing me these issues.

Pump carb up to 10 psi, and see if needle on pop off gauge falls at all over a 30 sec. period. ( i actually pumped mine up higher to 20 psi, and watching it over a minute period haha, gotta be sure sometimes! )

I can restart ski like a champ now, and it no longer cuts off after wide open throttle runs.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?73749-UGH!-96-XP-Carb-specialists-needed-in-here!


Rob
 
These 2 threads are what got me understanding the function of the carbs, yes its a long read but now I can knock out rebuilds quickly. Pay special note to what Bill says that I pasted below in italics from one of these threads:

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?40380-Carburetor-Adjustments
Below is from Bill's thread, he says 10 mins, but I did 20 psi for 1 min.:

WONT START WHEN HOT? A pressure test consists of two tests. One when assembling the carb, by installing the needle valve, the lever and the spring, then soaking the needle with gas or WD40, then pumping up the pressure and watching for bubbles around the needle valve, then more pressure to measure when it pops off.
The second test comes after full assembly. This is the one that gives you an idea if they leak or not. You pump up at least 10 psi and watch the gauge to see if it leaks off. It should hod 10 psi for ten minutes.
What is happening if the needle valves are leaking after full assembly, is that the diaphragms that you installed over the lever, is actually holding the levers down enough to allow the otherwise good needle valves to leak. This can be stopped by bending those lever arms down a little bit so the nipples on the diaphragm are not resting against the levers that open the needle valves..

and this link is great as well:
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...el-Delivery-Problems-low-revs-bogging-surging
 
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