95 challenger 1800

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Ernesto14

Ernesto14

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So I picked up a challenger 1800 the other day, I thought it was a good buy, but when I put it in the water it didn't run like I thought it would. It doesn't want to level off. At full throttle it stays nose up. It was stored for 2 years and the previous owner had rebuilt transmission and never ran afterwards. I guess my question, is where I can start. I am very mechanical just not with watercraft at least not yet. I'm thinking maybe spark plugs, or oil mix, but sure yet. Maybe some insight from some veterans would be a great insight. Thanks in advance!
 
Ernesto14 said:
So I picked up a challenger 1800 the other day, I thought it was a good buy, but when I put it in the water it didn't run like I thought it would. It doesn't want to level off. At full throttle it stays nose up. It was stored for 2 years and the previous owner had rebuilt transmission and never ran afterwards. I guess my question, is where I can start. I am very mechanical just not with watercraft at least not yet. I'm thinking maybe spark plugs, or oil mix, but sure yet. Maybe some insight from some veterans would be a great insight. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

It is a bit too late to give the one piece of advice. But,,, it would have been to NOT buy it without a ride and drive as well as doing a compression test.

So,,, now you need to a compression test to see the general condition of the engine.

Also, was the engine revving up to near max engine RPM's or not? If so,,, then it could be a wear ring ro impeller issue.
Was there any noticeable vibrations?
 
Hi and welcome to the SeaDoo forum. Before we can start we need to clarify exactly what boat you have. SeaDoo didn't make a Challenger in 1995 and the 1800 Challenger 96 and on was Rotax powered not Mercury. Check the HIN (hull identification number), the last two digits is the model year, and is the boat rotax or mercury powered?

From the symptoms you describe it sounds like a cavitation problem usually caused by a worn wear ring.

Lou
 
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Thanks guys... I actually haven't paid in full yet. I was waiting to do this ride out on the water. I checked out the wear ring and it doesnt seem to be any noticeable big time damage...and no out of the ordinary vibrations. And your probably right LouDoo thats what it says on the Registration the last 2 digits, say 95 so I'm assuming thats the year and it has a single engine Mercury v6.
 
I guess I could do a compression test, and when I do what should be the specs on that. If all checks out I would be picking it up for 4000 which I dont think it's too bad.
 
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If it's a 95 it's definitely not a Challenger and not Merc. powered. Can you post a picture?

If it's a 95 and it's Rotax powered then 150psi is ideal, less than 130 probably time for a rebuild, if its Merc. powered Dr Honda can give you a better idea. And at least here in the states 4000.00 is a lot of money for a 95 boat.

Lou
 
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It appears that you have a 1999 Seadoo Challenger 1800, with M2 Merc. power. So if you buy this boat make sure that the registration is in order and make sure that you get clear title. It also appears that the Mercury was an optional power plant so this is somewhat a rare bird.
[MENTION=16022]Dr Honda[/MENTION] is going to be your best source of information for this boat.

http://www.boattest.com/boats/boat_video.aspx?ID=30

Correction, this appears to be a 2000 model, because it's Mercury powered, a Challenger 210 or 240efi, not sure about the color.

Lou
 
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Yep... that's looking like a late '99 or more likely, an '00 model year, and not a 1995 model. And yes... that's a Merc 210 engine. Your target compression would be 125~130 psi. (Cold engine, open throttle) and as Lou said... that's a "2000", and not the 1800. Making it a 20' boat.

If it runs, and they only want $4k USD for it.... GRAB IT! That boat in good running order in the USA would be $10k.


In Puerto Rico... the hull number may be different. In the USA and Europe... the last 2 numbers are the year... but in other counties, they can spec out any method they want.


If we want to know the actual year... look on the engine tag, and it will have a year on it. GENERALLY... the engine will be one year older than the boat. So... if the engine tag says '99 on it... the boat is probably a '00.
 
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The wear ring may not be damaged per-say but be worn. If there is a gap larger than the thickness of a dime between the impeller an the ring it needs replaced.
 
I checked it out, and it's a 00. The wear ring has small scratches. The boat was ran in fresh water, first time with me in salt water. All pistons hit about 127-130 on compression. Could it bad oil since it been sitting for about 2 years? I also was reading some stuff about a temp sensor that are common to fail. Thanks guys again for replying.
 
Is there an additive I can add to restore the 2 cycle oil back to its normal conditions or should I just replace all the oil in itself?
 
The 2-stroke oil should be fine, it won't go bad especially after only 2-years, I've got some sitting on the shelf in my garage older than that.

The gasoline is another matter, it would be best just to drain or pump out the old gas and replace it with fresh gasoline, also it wouldn't hurt to add marine stabil to the new gasoline. I'm not that familiar with these engines but if there are any gasoline filters clean and or replace them. I'm sure Dr Honda will be along with more advice.

Lou
 
I also pulled out old spark plugs, and noticed that it had BUZ8H, and looking at the intake area it says to put in BPZ8HS-10, as what its requiring. Can anyone collaborate on that.
 
Yep... the 210 gets the "Z" plugs. THey should be surface fire, and not have an electrode haning down.

As Lou said... drain the old gas, and put in fresh. Trying to pump though old fuel could mess up the carbs. I would also add 1 oz/gal of oil, into the main fuel tank. The little extra oil will help keep the engine happy while coming out of storage.

You don't have an issue with the temp sender, since you have carbs. It's only a problem on the fuel injected engines.

The oil in the main tank should be fine. it doesn't go bad, unless something got into it.

And finally... make sure the oil cap is on good. The system works with pressure. If the cap is loose, it won't be pushed into the engine.
 
"I also pulled out old spark plugs, and noticed that it had BUZ8H, and looking at the intake area it says to put in BPZ8HS-10, as what its requiring. Can anyone collaborate on that."

If it is the 210 motor then use the BUZ8H or BU8H.
 
Ernesto14 said:
So I picked up a challenger 1800 the other day, I thought it was a good buy, but when I put it in the water it didn't run like I thought it would. It doesn't want to level off. At full throttle it stays nose up. It was stored for 2 years and the previous owner had rebuilt transmission and never ran afterwards. I guess my question, is where I can start. I am very mechanical just not with watercraft at least not yet. I'm thinking maybe spark plugs, or oil mix, but sure yet. Maybe some insight from some veterans would be a great insight. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Have you looked at the impeller and wear ring from inside the intake grate? A stick or a piece of a pop bottle stuck between the impeller and wear ring will cause the problem you describe.
 
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