On one of my GTXs I get a warning beeper constant and faint for about 30 seconds and it fades when starting up on the water after it's been ran a while. Never comes on while riding just when you shut if off and start it back up. Never comes on when on the hose. I'm guessing bad temp sensor?
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94 GTX Warning Beeper
- Thread starter wabash
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hotrodssnova
Member
That was my first thought. That sensor grounds out when hot or if it goes bad. Just pull the wire and it should stop. If it doesn't, not sure after that.
96spxpos
Well-Known Member
[MENTION=78932]wabash[/MENTION] , did you ever resolve this issue? kinda getting the same thing...only happens ON water, after I ride for a bit, and only happens when I go to start it back up. It goes away as soon as I start riding. were you actually overheating or was you temp sensor bad?
96spxpos
Well-Known Member
Not sure what that means. I'm a newb when it comes to electricity. I've got the suspected bad sensor and a supposed good spare one here. I've got the ohm meter set to 2k and the screen displays a "1" when I touch the red lead to the top and the black lead to the body of BOTH sensors, it does NOTHING. The "1" doesn't change. Even if I place them BOTH into hot water while doing this, the "1" still doesn't change. I'm having a hard time believing they're both bad. The spare came off of a known good spx that I dismantled. Am I doing this right?
Ok first of all you're not looking for 2k ohms you're just looking for lots of ohms ( open circuit ) in which depending on the brand of meter you have will either display nothing or something like "open" or " over". Or???? 1 prob means that it's reading 1k ohms but don't know without seeing what you're doing. When these sensor sees set point temperature, I think for theses it's around boiling 212 F it will close the circuit inside and your ohm meter will read 0 or a very small number like .0001. It's just a switch. When it gets too hot it makes contact and grounds to the body that's what the.n allows the current to flow thru the beeper.
96spxpos
Well-Known Member
Yea I just did a little more poking around and turned the dial. I think I was on the wrong setting.. I was getting 0 no matter what on the suspected bad one, and was getting some ohm readings from the potentially good one.. So, looks like it's a bad sensor! Next step is to buy an IR heat gun and check those temps after the ski is off. That's where my problem lies. Runs cool all day long on hose, just gets a bit too hot when riding. Buzzed NEVER buzzes while riding, but after I take a break and go to start it, it buzzes until I give it gas and take off. Then it goes away
Is that sort of what you had going on?
Thanks for all the help man
Is that sort of what you had going on?
Thanks for all the help man
Yep exactly what I had. Take your sensor warm it up until it makes contact or just before. Then stick it under tap water with the ohm meter still on it. Mine would spaz out and register ohms all over the place as it cooled. I could actually start with a warm sensor that had not made contact and make it make contact by hitting it with cold water simulating what happens when you start up your ski with a warm engine.
Overheat on these is 212f so I think it would be obvious if your motor was actually getting hot enough to trip the sensor. That sensor is there to tell you when you have NO water flow for a long time. As long as you have flow from your pisser it will be difficult to overheat unless your block is full of sand.
96spxpos
Well-Known Member
See?! That's exactly what I wanted to hear! I did blow out every line twice and there were no obstructions. The only other place I didn't blow out was the block itself...mainly because, if the block had ANY obstructions, I wouldn't get such a good, STRONG flow from the tell-tail if there was a blockage. Just not a good thing hearing that ill-fated overheat alarm when you're out there!
Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for all the help.
No prob. Also, if you ever question the temp, and have a pisser stream just put your hand in the stream. You'll know if it's too hot. If there's steam coming off the pisser stream then bingo! If you have no pisser stream....stop. The temp alarm on these things is truly an idiot light. By the the time you get the temp alarm if it's legit, it's usually too late.
Hey Guys. I am having the same problem as 96spxpos when testing my sensor. I have a 1995 GTX. My sensor has never gone off and I wanted to make sure it was ok as I just put in a rebuilt engine. I tested in boiling water and the resistance read 1. My multi meter reads 1 on the lowest Ohms setting whether I am touching the leads to the sensor or not. If I touch the leads together (without touching the sensor) it goes to 0.01. this is what I expect to happen to the sensor once it reaches 205 degrees but it never does. So I bought a new one and I got he exact same results. It came unpadded in an envelope (I bought from a dealer online) I thought maybe it got banged around in the mail and broken internally somehow. So I returned it and got another. But it came unpadded as well (after I requested in be padded) and did not "open" in the boiling water test either. So I am really confused. I am being very careful when I test them. Red wire on the connector, black in the threads. Set to Ohms. I have tried higher and lower ohms settings. Like I said touching the leads together it goes from 1 to 0.01 so the sensor at 205 degrees should do the same thing? Am I missing something?
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I am pretty sure all these sensors do is ground out at a set temperature to trigger the beeper. So to test you should have no continuity below the preset temp and then continuity when it reaches the set temp. So set your meter to test continuity with the beep function and when it reaches the set temp or close to it your multi-meter should beep indicating it closed the contact.
I had the water well above boiling which is 210.
I have other people ride my ski sometimes - and they may know nothing about how a motor works. I would feel better knowing my sensor works.
I was just hoping somebody who has done the water test could verify they have had it work and if so maybe help me if I am doing it wrong
I have other people ride my ski sometimes - and they may know nothing about how a motor works. I would feel better knowing my sensor works.
I was just hoping somebody who has done the water test could verify they have had it work and if so maybe help me if I am doing it wrong
Well first of all, the boiling point of water is 212 degrees F. And to get well above boiling you would have to have water in an enclosed pressurized container (ie...boiler). Now granted I would have expected it to make contact at 210, it might not have. But the fact you have had two brand new sensors produce the same results leads me to believe you are doing something wrong. Make sure you are maintaining good contact between your test leads and the sensor. One lead on the blade terminal on top and the other lead to the body (threads) of the sensor. Use alligator clips on the test leads and dip it in the hot water with the leads attached. Also use a known good thermometer to watch the temp of the water. The sensors I have tested do not make contact until right when the water starts to boil, 212F.
I am Canadian so my Fahrenheit is off a little (haha) I wrapped a length of copper wire around the threads about 4 times and then attached an alligator clip to it. It attached an alligator clip to the blade terminal. I had a thermometer from a deep fryer attached . My manual says 205 degrees is where it opens. I just assumed by the time I had a rolling boil I was well over that. I even tried another multimeter that my buddy had and got the same results. The sensors never opened up and the multimeter never changed from the display of 1. (never had continuity which should show zero or close to it)
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96spxpos
Well-Known Member
Well that sucks,
I figured out how to use the beep function like mikidy mentioned. Turns out, they BOTH work, and beep once they hit said temp and stop beeping once they cool off. So, looks like I've got a coolant/circulation problem I've gotta chase down. The only small saving grace is that I boiled them both and the one I thought was bad took about 15 seconds longer to stop beeping, which means it is probably going off a little bit sooner than it should. Smh
I figured out how to use the beep function like mikidy mentioned. Turns out, they BOTH work, and beep once they hit said temp and stop beeping once they cool off. So, looks like I've got a coolant/circulation problem I've gotta chase down. The only small saving grace is that I boiled them both and the one I thought was bad took about 15 seconds longer to stop beeping, which means it is probably going off a little bit sooner than it should. Smh
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