215HP RXP Head Gasket Failure?

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Donkla

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I just rebuilt the top end of a 2004 RXP that had a burnt piston. I bored it to 100.5mm and replaced the head with a used one which I sent out for a valve job and surface check. I also replaced the rod and main bearings. I put it together with new aftermarket rocker bolts and head gasket and OEM head bolts.

During the first three hours of break in, I capped it at 7000 RPMs. After that, I started opening it up. It accelerated to 8000 RPMs without any issues the first few times, so I ran it wide open for about a half mile until the temperature alarm came on. I let off and drifted. The alarm cleared in a few seconds, so I shut it off for a few minutes to let it cool, then idled it back home.

Upon examination, I found that about a quart of coolant had been pushed out of the overflow. I topped it off, put a catch can on the overflow hose and returned to the bay to perform a series of tests. I took a non-contact thermometer to check the cylinder head return hose temperature.

I ran it for about a half hour at or below 7000 RPM, stopping periodically to check the catch can and coolant temperature. I didn’t lose any coolant and the temperature held right around 190°F. I then opened it up for about 15 seconds. It pulled to 8000 RPMs easily, but the catch can was full afterwards. The temperature remained at 190.

I took it back home to pressure test the cooling system. The cap would only hold to 9 psi, but the rest of the system held fine, so I replaced the seal on the cap, which allowed it to hold to 15psi. Taking it back to the bay, it continued to spew coolant after about 15 seconds at WOT, but it started struggling to reach 8000 RPM. The coolant temperature continues to stay around 190°. I returned home to check the compression while it was still at operating temperature. It measured 137, 135, and 137psi (cylinders 1, 2, and 3).

Checking forum posts, I read that the 215 RXPs are somewhat notorious for head gasket leaks and that a symptom is spewing coolant out of the overflow. The forum posts never arrived at any conclusions or solutions. I tried one last experiment before taking the head back off. I torqued all of the head bolts an additional 90°, but it still only pulled to 7500 RPM.

When I pulled the head back off, it appears to me that the cylinder side of the head gasket was compromised. I am no expert, but the absence of coating most likely indicates a leak. There was not much residual stuck to the corresponding cylinder deck, so it seems the missing coating was pushed into the coolant jacket. I did recover what appeared to be coating in the coolant that I drained before removing the head. I saw one suspicious characteristic of the head gasket that possibly contributed to a failure. The alignment dowel hole at the #3 cylinder end of the gasket was large, allowing what I thought to be a questionable amount of misalignment.
  1. Does this sound like it’s definitely a head gasket issue?
  2. Does someone make a head gasket designated for bored cylinders? It may not be necessary considering that there is a lot of area between the cylinders (more than a lot of drag bikes I used to build).
  3. Would the use a of the Riva Pro-Series Cylinder Head Gasket fix my issue?
  4. Could I be overlooking some other cause?20220809_102358.jpg20220809_102653.jpg
 
1. yes
2. no
3. Not necessary for a stock machine. I've had good luck with stock head gaskets and aftermarket head gaskets as long as they stay tight when installed.
4. It is critical to torque the head bolts properly and sometimes they just stretch too much on install. I always make sure that after I did the final angle torque that it still holds at least 70 ft lbs and most are closer to 100. Many times they don't so I replace it.
 
I would have to think your torque procedure was incorrect , using the factory bolts was the right thing to do, use a factory gasket. Did you use a manual to get the torque procedure ? When I get my heads done they surface mill them flat , the photo you supplied the bolt holes look messed up, maybe I'm mistaken , but I would look at the bolt length , maybe you bottomed out in a couple of those holes ? Maybe the aftermarket gasket is thinner? Look at everything possible , I just bought an O-ring from the dealer , the package part number was correct but it had the wrong O-ring inside.
 
I would have to think your torque procedure was incorrect , using the factory bolts was the right thing to do, use a factory gasket. Did you use a manual to get the torque procedure ? When I get my heads done they surface mill them flat , the photo you supplied the bolt holes look messed up, maybe I'm mistaken , but I would look at the bolt length , maybe you bottomed out in a couple of those holes ? Maybe the aftermarket gasket is thinner? Look at everything possible , I just bought an O-ring from the dealer , the package part number was correct but it had the wrong O-ring inside.
Thanks for your valuable replies Digdog and ski-d00. This is my first experience with watercraft. I used to build and race drag bikes in St. Louis, but I moved to the Keys where there is a lot of straight road, but no room to race :cool:. Someone gave me the RXP with a hole in a piston and a beat up head. Sounded like a fun project, and blasting across the Florida bay at 70mph (while it lasted) was just as exciting as running at 165mph down the dragstrip.
I also found some good posts about this subject on Greenhulk. I am sure that the head and the block were as flat as they could possibly be. I had the block bored and checked by an acclaimed race car engine builder. I had the head check and valve job done by the best race bike builder in the St. Louis area.
I think you might be spot on about the torque procedure. I followed the service manual precisely (torque all to 30 ft-lbs, then torque them all an additional 120°, then again another 90°). Where I may have gone wrong is that I oiled the head bolts before installing them. The pressure created by the oil in the holes may have caused the 30 ft-lbs to read before the bolts were deep enough. I came to that conclusion after reading the jpt7779 and 1tommygunner1927 posts on greenhulk. 1tommygunner1927 mentioned in his post about breaking a stock head bolt that "I used too much oil on the threads and failed to clean the bolt holes......D'oh!!!".
His post was an instructional post on installing ARP head studs. It included a bit about thoroughly cleaning the studs and the bolt holes before installation. Not doing that may also have contributed to my issue.
I am going to order a set of the ARP head studs for peace of mind. That will at least save me from buying another set of head bolts if I blow another head gasket. I also want to make the best choice of a head gasket. I did find that Cometic makes a 101mm head gasket. My bore is 100.5mm, so I am not sure if that would be necessary. I don't think it would hurt considering the amount of meat between the cylinders. And moving the raised contact area away from the cylinder edge would be valuable. Any opinions?
 
I would think the original head gasket would be best even if it is in the cylinder by a few thou , the reason I was suggesting the oem gasket is sometimes aftermarkets are thinner to raise compression , but if you feel it was a torque procedure problem then try an aftermarket again. I have found so far the oem parts are better except the pistons because they are not forged and I cracked one once. I always oil torqued bolts but very lightly , head studs make sense but I wouldn't know what torque to go to , maybe around 100 ft.lbs. I believe the reason they use rotation to yield bolts is so that they keep pulling down from the stretch even after some gasket settling so if you do use studs I would do like a race engine and run it once till hot , cool it and do a retorque of the nuts. Good luck
 
Thanks again Digdog! I pulled the trigger on the studs and the 101mm gasket from Aqua Sport Performance on Ebay. He made a discount offer that expired yesterday evening. With shipping and tax, the gasket was $120.88 and the studs were $193.39. The Cometic gasket is 0.040 thick. I think the OEM is 0.038. Hopefully, that will be the last $300 I spend on this for a while. I think with your and ski-d00's input, learning from my mistakes, and the Greenhulk how-to on the studs, this can't fail. I will update next week when the parts arrive.
 
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