2000 Seadoo rx di mpem smokes

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Good, we're just isolating the various sections in our investigation to locate any shorts so disconnecting things as we go along until the short is eliminated is how we accomplish this.

I just noticed this MPEM also has a 4th, connector for the injector and sensor interface, I suppose you disconnected that one as well and the bulb remained lit. I don't anticipate any shorts in this interface but may as well eliminate it as well. Maybe you have already.

How did the MPEM fuse pulling go, pulling them while connector #3 is connected should've caused the light to dim I'd expect, and have any fuses blown previously? If you have excess current in the circuit, wires and connectors will tend to melt, so the fuses are protection against fire hazard.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Good, we're just isolating the various sections in our investigation to locate any shorts so disconnecting things as we go along until the short is eliminated is how we accomplish this.

I just noticed this MPEM also has a 4th, connector for the injector and sensor interface, I suppose you disconnected that one as well and the bulb remained lit. I don't anticipate any shorts in this interface but may as well eliminate it as well. Maybe you have already.

How did the MPEM fuse pulling go, pulling them while connector #3 is connected should've caused the light to dim I'd expect, and have any fuses blown previously? If you have excess current in the circuit, wires and connectors will tend to melt, so the fuses are protection against fire hazard.
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Have blown the 2A (ACC) fuse on the mpem in the past when the mpem started smoking and have blown multiple 15A fuses in the rear electrical box when the mpem starts smoking....
 
Boyj1fox said:
Have blown the 2A (ACC) fuse on the mpem in the past when the mpem started smoking and have blown multiple 15A fuses in the rear electrical box when the mpem starts smoking....
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Pulling Fuses one at a time seemed to make no difference and am wondering if my test light can even fluctuate in brightness as it has a battery inside the test light handle....not sure if that would make a difference....also I did unplug the 4th connecter and saw no difference
 
Help me understand the 15A e-box fuse thing a little better, I think it's supposed to be 30A. the 15A won't cause damage but it's too small to avoid blowing under normal conditions.

I'm also trying to understand why the harness connector was overheating and smoking, all the fuses have to be sized according to the wire gauge and anticipated power to prevent this. A smaller fuse than intended (15A instead of 30A) for example will tend to blow even under normal conditions.

The 2A MPEM ACC fuse provides power for the instrument cluster but it also might provide power for some other low power requirement as well.
 
Boyj1fox said:
Pulling Fuses one at a time seemed to make no difference and am wondering if my test light can even fluctuate in brightness as it has a battery inside the test light handle....not sure if that would make a difference....also I did unplug the 4th connecter and saw no difference
Click to expand...

Yeah good point, maybe I should try to understand if your test light is applicable for our purpose. Any further info like make and model? It;s not LED, correct? Minimum is we must have an incandescent bulb, an LED won't work for us.
 
The 2A MPEM fuse would provide power for the MPEM internal logic circuit as well as the instrument cluster, I suspect. My reasoning is the MPEM logic section has very low power requirements aside from the injectors and fuel pump, which I suspect are seperate from the logic circuit.

All this really doesn't matter though, the smoking regulator connector shouldn't happen if the fuses are the correct size, and probably the MPEM is shot if your test light is reliable for our purpose. The regulator and maybe the stator (we will be testing these) seems to be damaged.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
The 2A MPEM fuse would provide power for the MPEM internal logic circuit as well as the instrument cluster, I suspect. My reasoning is the MPEM logic section has very low power requirements aside from the injectors and fuel pump, which I suspect are seperate from the logic circuit.

All this really doesn't matter though, the smoking regulator connector shouldn't happen if the fuses are the correct size, and probably the MPEM is shot if your test light is reliable for our purpose. The regulator and maybe the stator (we will be testing these) seems to be damaged.
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My test light is from autozone made by surebilt and says illumanited circuit tester...not sure takes a tiny battery inside the handle....yes I Believe the “15A” fuse is supposed to be a 30A but if the mpem smokes on 15A I don’t want to put 30A in it and have it catch on fire or something assuming it would have more power therefore getting hotter....the 15A does not blow without the regulator and stator connector plugged into MPEM.
 
Boyj1fox said:
My test light is from autozone made by surebilt and says illumanited circuit tester...not sure takes a tiny battery inside the handle....yes I Believe the “15A” fuse is supposed to be a 30A but if the mpem smokes on 15A I don’t want to put 30A in it and have it catch on fire or something assuming it would have more power therefore getting hotter....the 15A does not blow without the regulator and stator connector plugged into MPEM.
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If it helps the bulb is only red not orange like most incadesants
 
Agree, the 15A probably will be fine for testing purposes. If you attempt to start the engine it might blow.

Ugh, the smoking thing sounds like the regulator is shot but we should confirm the stator is fine. Still not sure about the MPEM itself, let me see if I can locate some info on the test light.
 
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Agree, the 15A probably will be fine for testing purposes. If you attempt to start the engine it might blow.

Ugh, the smoking thing sounds like the regulator is shot but we should confirm the stator is fine. Still not sure about the MPEM itself, let me see if I can locate some info on the test light.
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The connector smokes regardless of how regulator is plugged in....test line part number is 86598 from autozone but google those numbers and it comes up....
 
Okay, I found a surebuilt continuity tester on the Autozone site, it seems to have a 12V battery inside and might be LED. I think it's not going to help us out unfortunately.

Ideally, we need a test light with a 12V 4W or 5W tungsten filament bulb, if it specifies xenon gas this would guarantee it's incandescent. You might even be able to modify your existing light to place this bulb inside or pick one up cheap, they aren't very expensive.

PLT 212-2X | 5W Festoon Base Bulb | Clear | 1000Bulbs.com
 
Boyj1fox said:
The connector smokes regardless of how regulator is plugged in....test line part number is 86598 from autozone but google those numbers and it comes up....
Click to expand...

If the regulator is shorted nine ways to Sunday, it won't matter how you plug it in. It's the smoke that's freaking me out, the connectors should handle 15A without burning. Yeah, the fuse should blow before the connector smokes, that's the purpose of having a fuse.
 
Anyway, grab a test light that doesn't have a battery inside. It must have an incandesent bulb. We can still use your continuity tester to make sure the stator isn't shorted to ground, we need to do this before replacing the regulator.
 
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Anyway, grab a test light that doesn't have a battery inside. We can still use your continuity tester to make sure the stator isn't shorted to ground, we need to do this before replacing the regulator.
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Ok will pick one up tommorow morning as I have work tonight but can get one in the morning....thanks so much for the help.
 
The voltmeter can come in handy if we need exact info but it doesn't offer the function of an incandescent element that really works well for the particular type of testing we're trying to do.

For instance, once we get the ski running, we want to test the battery voltage while the engine is running to confirm the charging system is functioning as anticipated. We'd like to see around 13.8 volts while the engine is running. We might want to have it on the trailer in the water while doing this.

The votmeter allows us to focus on exact detail, it probably has an ammeter function but if we attempted to use that and a short develops we could easily damage the voltmeter. So yes, it's a valuable instrument but doesn't fit our current troubleshooting strategy well. I'm sure we'll be using it.
 
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
The voltmeter can come in handy if we need exact info but it doesn't offer the function of an incandescent element that really works well for the particular type of testing we're trying to do.

For instance, once we get the ski running, we want to test the battery voltage while the engine is running to confirm the charging system is functioning as anticipated. We'd like to see around 13.8 volts while the engine is running. We might want to have it on the trailer in the water while doing this.

The votmeter allows us to focus on exact detail, it probably has an ammeter function but if we attempted to use that and a short develops we could easily damage the voltmeter. So yes, it's a valuable instrument but doesn't fit our current troubleshooting strategy well. I'm sure we'll be using it.
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Happened to get ahold of a incadesent test light tonight and ran through all plugs and all fuses and the light did not change in brightness until I unplugged connecter 3 which is power into the mpem....in which the test light turned off.
 
In that case what happens if you disconnect all MPEM connectors except #3 and connect the battery normally, will the result be no smoke or fuses blowing? If not then connect the instrument pod connector, the DESS post connector, and place the DESS key onto the DESS post. and see if the instruments come alive like normal. Does this work okay?

Buzzer chirp?
Start/stop wakes up MPEM to power the instruments while DESS is off the post (I think this is normal operation for all, including DI)?
Does start/stop with DESS engage the starter solenoid and crank the starter motor?

I guess maybe you can answer these questions based on your previous experimentation.
 
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
In that case what happens if you disconnect all MPEM connectors except #3 and connect the battery normally, will the result be no smoke or fuses blowing? If not then connect the instrument pod connector, the DESS post connector, and place the DESS key onto the DESS post. and see if the instruments come alive like normal. Does this work okay?

Buzzer chirp?
Start/stop wakes up MPEM to power the instruments while DESS is off the post (I think this is normal operation for all, including DI)?
Does start/stop with DESS engage the starter solenoid and crank the starter motor?

I guess maybe you can answer these questions based on your previous experimentation.
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How would I do this as the start/stop button is in connector #2 which smokes when plugged in. DESS is also on connector #2
 
Assuming pins 2-25 and 2-26 are the pins that smoke, unplugging the rectifier should avoid that assuming that section of harness itself isn't shorted.

But before connecting MPEM Connector #2, how about just #3 and normal battery connection? If a fuse blows at this point, it would confirm your test light was a valid test.

I was just giving you several steps to execute in sequence instead of one at a time..
 
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Sportster-2001-951C-Stock said:
Assuming pins 2-25 and 2-26 are the pins that smoke, unplugging the rectifier should avoid that assuming that section of harness itself isn't shorted.

But before connecting MPEM Connector #2, how about just #3 and normal battery connection? If a fuse blows at this point, it would confirm your test light was a valid test.

I was just giving you several steps to execute in sequence instead of one at a time..
Click to expand...
Will try this when I get home and have a chance....but if I can not wake up the mpem then how would it draw enough current to blow a fuse?
 
The MPEM might be shorted, in which case it won't wake up but the fuse will blow.

If the fuse doesn't blow and MPEM doesn't wake up, we can assume the MPEM is toast.

If the fuse doesn't blow and the MPEM does wake up, that would indicate the MPEM is at least partially working.. In this case, maybe all you need is a regulator and optionally VTS repair but we need to complete stator testing before replacing the regulator.

Say for instance the starter bendix was broken, the chunks of metal would be attached to the flywheel magnets and tear up the stator. A shorted stator would be unkind to your regulator, so could be a shorted VTS, so let;s leave the VTS and regulator disconnected at least till they're repaired.

This is a process of elimination, we isolate the defective circuitry from the functional circuitry to help determine the extent of damage. Currently, we have a strong suspension both the VTS and regulator are shorted.
 
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