Ok so with only connector 3 plugged in connector 2 started smoking and blew what would be 30A fuse in the back of jet ski but only had a 15A in place but still smoked in connector 2.
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With the regulator unplugged.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Okay then it sounds like the MPEM is toast (I thought you might be able to answer that question based on your previous experimentation).
This explains why the bulb was lit brightly with only Connector #3 attached.
This explains why the bulb was lit brightly with only Connector #3 attached.
Ok will order another and plug it in with no positive connection and test with an incadesent light to check for any other shorts.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
So when you get the replacement MPEM, use the bulb trick to avoid damaging the new MPEM. If the bulb illuminates brightly, there might be a short somewhere that could damage the MPEM.
The trick to this is to have a large enough bulb to make a valid test but not so large damage occurs. For instance, the smallest fuse is 2A, so if you limited the total current to under 2A that particular circuit could not be damaged, the 2A fuse would not and could not blow b/c we didn't exceed 2A.
2A x 12.5V is about a 25 Watt 12V bulb, you could go this high with some margin of safety, I don't thik you need that much, a 5W bulb should be plenty for poking around.
The trick to this is to have a large enough bulb to make a valid test but not so large damage occurs. For instance, the smallest fuse is 2A, so if you limited the total current to under 2A that particular circuit could not be damaged, the 2A fuse would not and could not blow b/c we didn't exceed 2A.
2A x 12.5V is about a 25 Watt 12V bulb, you could go this high with some margin of safety, I don't thik you need that much, a 5W bulb should be plenty for poking around.
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Ok sounds good thanks so much for the help.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I now understand it's not the harness connector that was burning, it was the MPEM. My feeling is this location is probably where the surge protect diode inside the MPEM is, so if you're up to it and can solder/disassemble the MPEM, there's a chance you can perform surgery on the MPEM to repair it.
FWIW
So I got my new mpem today and did the incadesent test light trick and when you first touch the terminal it’s starts to light the bulb but then goes out....would this be because the resistance is getting higher?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yes, that's correct. That's what you want to see. Before connecting the regulator we need to test that part of the circuit but as long as you use the test light no harm can occur.
For instance, if using the test light and connect the regulator, the test light begins glowing, the regulator is likely shorted.
For instance, if using the test light and connect the regulator, the test light begins glowing, the regulator is likely shorted.
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So I had ordered a new regulator as well and already plugged it in when doing this test light process....
278001695....from 2002 seadoo rx di from eBay
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Excellent! We also need to test the stator before firing up the engine but keep using the test light and reconnect the harness connector by connector while watching the test light.
I'll almost bet when you connect the VTS the light comes on brightly.
I'll almost bet when you connect the VTS the light comes on brightly.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Aftermarket MPEM? I want to check that out for my curiosity, I have real doubts about something like that can work at a reasonable price, especially DI.
@mikidymac, tell us about the VTS, it's an MPEM killer, right?
Plugged in stator and had no effect on the test light...plugged in 2 pin connector for VTS and light instantly got bright
Should I try the 6 pin connector for VTS?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
If you want, the VTS seems shorted b/c in the 2-pin connector that's power for the VTS, looks like.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Okay, we still need to confirm no continuity to ground on any yellow stator wires and if we can take a low resistance measurement from yellow to yellow we should do that also. Should be around 1 Ohm or something like that.
How would I do this? Sorry mechanically inclines but terrible with electrical....yellow wires for stator go to regulator right?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Yes, there are three yellow wires. Each one is equal to the other, meaning you can connect any three in any order to the regulator and the circuit will still operate normally.
So disconnect the three yellow wires from the regulator and grab your continuity test light with the battery in it. Connect the long test lead of continuity tester to engine ground and touch the test probe to the engine ground to confirm the continuity tester is working.
Then connect the continuity tester probe to any of the three yellow wires, the continuity tester should not illuminate. If it does, it means the stator is shorted to ground.
From there, we need to use your digital voltmeter set on the lowest Ohm scale. Touching the two voltmeter probes together should produce a low reading, close to zero. Separating the two test leads should create a very high reading, perhaps "OL" or something like that will display. This means out of range, there's no higher resistance it can measure. Then connect the voltmeter probes to two of the yellow stator wires, the reading should be about 1 Ohm more than touching the probes together.
Test between all three yellow wires in any and every combination, the readings should all be around this same 1 Ohm value.
If all of this is true, the stator passes our test.
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So I did the test light and it did not light up on yellow wires bolt meter got a reading about 0.3 ohms from any combination.
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
Okay, 0.3 Ohms sounds acceptable. Reading must be less than 1 Ohm, actually.
What would be the next step? Are we saying only the vts is shorted? I’m not aware of any other connectors that are unplugged at this time? I did not do the 6 pin to vts as you said the 2 pin is power and ground so if that’s shorted then no point testing the 6 pin correct? I imagine jet skis can run with no vts?
Sportster-2001-951C-Stock
Well-Known Member
I think you are ready to connect the battery normally, I'd probably use a 10A fuse instead of the 30A fuse just to be cautious, this won't allow you to start the engine but it provides more safety than the 30A fuse for testing purposes. Now you have a 15A in this location, that's also safer than 30A
You should have gauges, and the fuel pump should whir for a few seconds putting the DESS key on that came with the new MPEM, as normal.
If everything operates normally and the small fuse doesn't trip, then go for maximum smoke with the 30A fuse, cross your fingers and prey it doesn't go up in flames. (sorta kidding, it shouldn't!)
You should have gauges, and the fuel pump should whir for a few seconds putting the DESS key on that came with the new MPEM, as normal.
If everything operates normally and the small fuse doesn't trip, then go for maximum smoke with the 30A fuse, cross your fingers and prey it doesn't go up in flames. (sorta kidding, it shouldn't!)
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