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2000 rxdi won't start, please help

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blake903

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when it stopped running it just died on the water, it turns over fine but it's not getting fuel, when i put the key in you can hear the fuel pump kick on but still wont start, if i spray starting fluid in it will fire right up but die after burning it up...i pulled the fuel rail off and held the injectors in place while hitting the button, what kinda of pressure should the fuel come out cuz it only barely sprays...WHAT DO I NEED TO DO?? Its getting real close to spring.
 
so after tons of reading, i think it's the air compressor, when i take off the fuel rail it sprays fuel but not at much pressure, someone please tell me where i can get a new air compressor and where it is on the motor, i cant find anything on this
 
problem is, the more experience members that have knowledge ofthat motor, are geering up for the summer....business, there own sh**,..etc. Drop Chester, DAWG, ski-doo or Seadoosnipe a line.
 
when it stopped running it just died on the water, it turns over fine but it's not getting fuel, when i put the key in you can hear the fuel pump kick on but still wont start, if i spray starting fluid in it will fire right up but die after burning it up...i pulled the fuel rail off and held the injectors in place while hitting the button, what kinda of pressure should the fuel come out cuz it only barely sprays...WHAT DO I NEED TO DO?? Its getting real close to spring.

There is basically no way I can troubleshoot this motor without being there or enough input from you to help. You really need a shop manual to understand how this thing works. It's the most complicated fuel injection system I think I've ever come across.

The Direct Orbital Injection system uses a fuel pump and air compressor. You fuel pressure is constantly changing volume to maintain a steady 27 psi above air compressor pressure. When the air pressure changes, the volume of fuel changes with it. This is maintained by fuel regulator that uses a diaphragm that is connected to the back side of the air rail.

You also have an air pressure regulator that maintains pressure at about 80 psi.

The fuel pump runs about 107 psi.

Everything is controlled through your MPEM which receives input from several sensors, like your TPS (throttle position sensor), CPS (Crankshaft position sensor) and several others.

This is why trying to troubleshoot this engines fuel system is so tough in the forum. The only success I see in it is when I'm working with someone who is pretty mechanical savvy and knows their way around motors already and who have the shop manual.

Your only way to understand the basics of your crisis is through it. I can't type out every chapter, I'd be here for days.

To say you've sprayed starting fluid (which is not recommended) and got it to fire, says it's in a component of the engine managment system (electronic related) or in a mechanicl part such as the fuel pump, regulator or air compressor system.

I know I have'nt been of much help. The best advice I can give in this situation is to get a shop manual. We do have memberships available and a premium troubleshooting section that might be your best bet. With your membership, you get the manual and can ask me to help you out. Then, I can refer you to certain pages and get you to do certain tests to see if the problem can be localized.

If you take this to a repair shop, they will rob you blind. You might as well give it to them. They'll start off telling you it's "this", for a few hundred bucks. But after 5 visits and a couple thousand dollars later, trobleshooting at your expense, you'll give up.....

Sorry to hear your having problems......:(
 
thank you very much for the help and time, there is no way i'm taking it to a dealer cuz the one closest to me is so very expensive any ways, i guess i'll start replacing parts until she runs, Thanks again for the post, its greatly appreciated!
 
You will only get a slight mist from the injectors. What is the compression? Check the fuel pressure as per the manual. You will need a pressure gauge and an adapter hose from BRP to do this. I recommend that you do take it to your dealer as they can pull the fault codes and make it easier to pinpoint.

Chester
 
if they run the fault code will they be able to pin point what is wrong exact;y, such as the air compressor, or a regulator, and im guessing compression isn't the issue because it just died all of a sudden when it stopped running, i was crusin around 60 and it was like ignition was killed
 
...and im guessing compression isn't the issue because it just died all of a sudden when it stopped running, i was crusin around 60 and it was like ignition was killed

That's the exact reason that you have to check the compression. You just described a seizure.

Chester
 
i've got all the air compressor parts in but can't really figure out how to change it, i got the top jug piece off, and there is a little plate on the back off the motor that im thinking lets you pull the pin on the bottom of the rod, does the motor have to be pulled to do this?? any advice on changing the compressor would be greatly appreciated since it's 85 degrees outside, lol
 
I sure hope that other forum members have been sending you messages and that is why you're at this stage of your repair.
If not then you really should have taken the advice posted previously ........
GET A SERVICE MANUAL
CHECK COMPRESSION
CHECK FUEL PRESSURE
ETC.

DAWG
 
air compressors very rarely fail on the DI motor. fuel pumps fail constantly, especially the older ones which is what you have.

the air compressor is just a piston that runs off the cb shaft and it can't be changed without pulling the motor.

check your fuel pressure, it can be done with an automotive fuel pressure tester. my guess is that it is low and you will need a new fuel pump assy.
 
DI.........
Unhook the two oetiker clamps directly outside the pump module on top of the tank. Install a t fitting in between the module and the hose. Put a 200 psi capable guage on the t(IF you want to check it on the water, use 3 feet of hose and run it through the console hole). Install the key... You should have about 120 psi(117). If the pressure drops when you stall, pressure is your problem. You need the manual just to try to understand the DI. you can use a Volvo external pump, ekp4. Correct flow and pressure. Got the info years ago from an old sd.net thread. copy-pasted it.
 
Did you check the compression? What are the readings? Yes, the engine will normally still turn over after you've had a seizure. When the pistons cool down (usually takes a few seconds) they un-stick from the bore.

Chester
 
im gonna pick up a comp. tester tm from a buddy and ill post back and go from there, please stick around for the help guys, i'm workin on a 95 wetjet right now too, just got a bendix put in it today, tryin to get it ready to sell. but i got electrical issues now, can't even get it to turn over.. everything is right with the starter and bendix because i put a jumper on the starter and it turned the motor over but when everthing is hooked up theres nothing, this is kind of low on my list of priority's right now because i'm also rebuilding 2 dirtbikes and building a car motor but if anyone has any ideas i'd appreciate it.
 
Pull the fuel pump out. Its the major contributor on a ten year old DI. I have worked
on many nissans, BMWs, ....they just qiut too. A new pump & a tank cleaning got them outa my shop. Now if I had to do one, a few hours! Advise: JUST DO IT
 
i know i have kind of asked this before and im gonna get flamed because i still havnt checked fuel pressure but can my pump be bad if im still hearing it kick on when i put the lanyard in?
 
yes, the normal failure mode is low pressure all of a sudden. pump still runs and sounds normal but an internal seal blows out and the pressure is reduced and it won't run at all. also seems to normally fail while being ridden at mid to high throttle, not sure why, just hear it all the time from people. does this sound familiar?
 
yea thats exactly what happened, i was cruisin around 50 and it just died... i just in to take a break, got the motor up in the air on the cherry picker, im changin this air comp. since i got it then im puttin it back in and takin you guys advice, im gonna start out with comp. test (my buddy lost the one he had) so ill have to hunt another one down, then on to fuel pressure.. im really thinkin its the pump now thanks to ^^^^
 
stop messing with the air compressor. if you took the head off the air compressor piston and the cylinder walls look good and it moves up and down, then it's fine, don't change it.

it's more work than you think, make sure you don't reuse the stretch bolt and proper torque procedure is critical on stretch bolts.
 
okay i figured out the problem but i need some help on where to find the part, i pulled the fuel sending unit out and the little seal that goes from the pump to the black part that bolts to the tank (the little seal inside of the spring) I opened up the parts page but can't really tell if you can get just the seal itself, can someone give me the number on it or somewhere else to find this parts, Thanks
 
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