Chester
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  • hey cehester, was wonderen if ya can help me out. Found two bolts one in the back and one in the front. they matched the ones used as motor mounts. took of the housing thats over the drive shaft(??) one was tight one was very loose and the other two in my hand. had to wiggle motor around to get the holes lined up but was wonder ing if i should get an alighnment done. i am only able to turn the shaft about a 1/4 way. im not sure how much of a turn you shoud get. Am i snagging on something thats behind that plate that also may have slipped out of position? i think i made one two many trips on that nasty graval road up to lake cowichan lol. thanks for ur time 97 xp
    Do you have to pull the motor on a 1998 GTX 951 to check the stator and/or woodruff key. I have backfiring issues with no blown fuses. Haven't changed MPEM and don't really want to as they are worth more than the ski.
    Hey thanks, any info or posts on whats needed to R and R the insert? I asssume the pump and driveshaft need to be removed? Again, thanks for your help! Pete
    Chester,
    I’m sure you get a tone of these questions, but I need some advice on my 2005 RXT. Lost both S/C ceramic washers, both oil pumps done, pulled motor bearings ok. Here is where I need the help. I have washed and clean all oil passages and I'm ready to go back together. Should I replace the small oil cooler or how should I clean it. I could only find maybe one washer. Once I get the engine back together, how should I start the motor? How much oil should be put in the engine to start it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
    Robert
    Hello Chester, Can you tell me how much trouble it is to change the props in a 95 Speedster? I have always rebuilt my atvs. 2 strokes and 4 strokes. I have plently of tools and gadgets, just never been into a jet boat before.

    Thanks, Steve
    Hi Chester
    I was wondering if you knew where I find a place to buy a Swirl impeller for my '96 Challenger. I have sent out a few e-mails to Skat-track etc. and they doent reply Im thinking because Im from Canada??? Im looking for one that reduces the cavitation but not loosing too much top speed. They recomend on there web site 14.5/22.5 for bottom end and 17/22 for top speed but Im not sure which one is best. Thanks for your time.
    Dennis
    I have a 98 xp that my brother was riding not to long ago when it just died in the water after running perfectly. I get it home and start to investigate to find the 15 amp battery fuse is blown replace it and it blows and so does the one by the solenoid. So i decided to unplug every connector in the doo except the MPEM and plug each one back in one at a time while putting the lanyard back on to see if it blows. Of course it didnt untill the last one which was the stator plug. I did a little research found that it was probably grounding out so i checked continuity and it was there but the ohms reading was at .8 on all configurations of the yellow wires so i took it apart and found a little piece of metal briding the gap on two coils took it out and now there is no continuity and the ohms reading is again .8. Would it be wise to reuse the old stator? The only marks on it is a pinhole burn mark on those two coils and the flywheel looks good too no gouging or pits.
    Chester can you help me out? I value your judgment and advise.
    The problem is when boat hits RPM's above 3500-4500 it wants to cut out, I can run it no problem as long as it does not go over that. (things I have done), cleaned and switched out fuel selector valves, put all new fuel lines in, put new inline filters in, carbs have been rebuilt, and after problem started I switched carbs from one engine to the other, I switched fuel lines going from one side to the other, I know now its not a fuel delivery problem, I also disconected the red wire from the rectifier and ran it ...didnt help:ack:
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