get_real
Active Member
Tried that in Tampa and it didn't help, unless I unhooked the wrong wire. It was a solid red wire coming from the regulator. What could cause the engine to surge when moving the trim motor??
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1st Tow....help
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Tried that in Tampa and it didn't help, unless I unhooked the wrong wire. It was a solid red wire coming from the regulator. What could cause the engine to surge when moving the trim motor??
get_real
Active Member
Going back there at 9am. I'm not good at raising cain but am very frustrated. Might be something hard to find though.
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Yep, there's only one red lead on the voltage regulator. However since using the you get a temporary surge when using the trim, it's causing a load on the electrical system I'm still thinking voltage regulator.
You can also test the voltage regulator by measuring for AC voltage across the battery terminals.
I would also have your dealer check the magneto/stator and while they are there check the magneto pickup to make sure it hasn't come loose.
Lou
get_real
Active Member
Thanks Lou, just the info I was looking for. I'll have to check the manual for the a/c current test.
Guess you we're right all along about it being electrical. Sounds like it could very well be something like the magneto pickup coming loose when I trailered it the 5 hours to Florida. I'll ensure they check out both.
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get_real
Active Member
Dealer called....they replaced the stator and said its good to go. Was going to pick it up at closing time but they asked to keep it till next week to let it cool completely to ensure it runs good cold. Will get a back next weekend when the weather should be better than today's monsoon!
get_real
Active Member
Picked up my XP from the dealer. He told me they went through two stator's trying to find the problem. They finally determined the VTS box was killing the stators. They unhooked the VTS and drove it for a couple of hours and no problems.
I took it for a ride this afternoon and it seemed to run good for the first few minutes, then it started hesitating/bogging down. I shut it down, re-started and it seemed to run ok for the rest of the trip. I'm thinking there is still something wrong. Is it possible the VTS box is causing the problems, or could it be something else like the voltage regulator be the problem??
I took it for a ride this afternoon and it seemed to run good for the first few minutes, then it started hesitating/bogging down. I shut it down, re-started and it seemed to run ok for the rest of the trip. I'm thinking there is still something wrong. Is it possible the VTS box is causing the problems, or could it be something else like the voltage regulator be the problem??
Is the VTS still unpluged?
If so, then the box should be out of the loop. I would assume there is a fuse for the VTS as well. If there is, remove it to ensure that no part of the VTS is in the loop.
If so, then the box should be out of the loop. I would assume there is a fuse for the VTS as well. If there is, remove it to ensure that no part of the VTS is in the loop.
get_real
Active Member
Yes they left it unplugged till they find a replacement vts box. Its weird because the vts was functioning correctly. Has anyone else ever had a vts box kill a stator?
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get_real
Active Member
Nope, it's 7.5. i was thinking the same thing, if the fuse is not breaking, seems odd it would kill the stator. However there was something weird going on before they replaced the stator because when you went to move the trim up or down while the ski was bogging along the engine would surge for a second then go back to full bogg. Guess hitting the vts switch momentarily stopped the drain. However if it is the VTS, which is currently disconnected, I'm wondering why yesterday I had a short bogging episode, even though it cleared up.
I am starting to question the shop's ability to diagnose and fix this issue. Have you/they done a load test on the battery? Has the fuel system been totally gone through? Tank emptied completely to verify no water in it. Carb filters verified to be clean, pressure test the fuel system for leaks including pulse line? Fuel pump? Seems like you are great at getting it to do it, but they can't? Are they even test riding it or just telling you they are? I would start asking for them to fix it, or take the ski back.
get_real
Active Member
I hear you. I know the owner of the shop has taken pwc courses and is certified, but it does sound as if they are just replacing parts and learning as they go. On the other hand, it could also be one of those hard to naildown problems.
They are running the ski, becuase they've put about 2-3 hours on the hour gauge over the last two weeks. They told me they went through the carbs again and ensured they were good. It has new fuel lines, new fuel tank baffel, and new fuel selector switch.
I do agree the problem appears to be electrical. I quess it's possible the VTS box is bad and causing a power drain, but even if that's true there is something else going on becuase I'm still having episodes of bogging with the VTS disconnected. I'm going to ride it a few more times, and if I'm still having problems, will take it back again. If anyone has any ideas of what test I could run myself let me know. I'll be riding it tonight after I get off work!
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
Not sure if it's possible since you didn't really take any of the engine apart, but you could have developed a case leak. You might be sucking too much air form around your engine and not enough fuel is compensating it. A way to tell would be to play with the choke when you get the bog (didn't have time to read every post to see if someone's already suggested this, sorry). I had something similar on my XP when my rotary valve was cracked. It cracked b/c I removed the stock carb. brace and was running afrermarket F/A's. The weight of the carbs and my abusive riding style helped develop a crack at one of the bolt holes. I would have never found it had I not done a leak-down test. Basically, you have to pressurize your whole motor and check it for air leaks with a squirt bottle of soapy water.
Trying to understand the issue a little more. Does the bog happen right away, or does it take some amount of riding before it starts? During a bog, pull the choke out slowly and see how it responds. Then try the fuel selector, while its bogging, slowly turn the knob to the off position and see how it reacts. Depending how it reacts, you can determine if its running rich or lean during the bog.
get_real
Active Member
I did try changing the fuel selector switch when it was bogging, no difference. I've also tried pulling the choke when it's running bad. It kills the motor almost instantly, but it will restart quickly once you let go of the choke.
Sometimes it will bog right off the dock, but normally it's just happens while riding. It will run great for 5-10 minutes, then when go into a bog mode where it won't go past 2500-3000 rpm. I don't think it's a major issue like a cracked case or seal because it would never run good. When it's running correctly it accelerates like a drag car and hits max rpm of almost 6900. I feel there is some intermittent electrical problem that causes a drain electrical system/spark.
I have learned to just kill the motor when it bogs, wait about 30 seconds, then restart and it seems to run well again. Very weird.
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So if it dies when pulling out the choke it's likely already running rich. Where are the LS adjusters set at? How about load testing the battery?
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get_real
Active Member
I've never messed with the LS adjusters so can't answer that. The battery is a brand new AGM. Don't see how either one of those components could cause an intermittent problem, but I could pull the battery and take it to a shop to be tested. The battery always cranks well, it's never drained down, so it dosen't appear to be a battery or charging issue.
So it is magically fixed, or you didn't ride it long enough?
get_real
Active Member
It's hard to say. I'm thinking the problem may still be there, time will tell. It was nice to get in one run with no issues.
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