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1997 GTX Impeller Removal

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Senjinsmith

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First adventure with my son's 'new' seadoo...wear ring shot so we are removing impeller. Have read you need to heat 'center' of impeller to break loctite bond. Where exactly should we be applying heat? I am thinking in the middle of the shaft between vanes of impeller, but not sure how long to heat...dont want to ruin any seals etc that may be inside. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks
 
It shouldn't need any heat. Just the proper tools.


Lock the shaft in a a vice, and put a breaker bar, with a 4' extension, into the impeller, and break it loose.
 
We have the impeller tool, the case is in the vise, and I am using a 24" breaker bar, but it won't budge...I'm afraid something is going to break. Putting a considerable amount of torque to it and not getting anywhere...manual says heat the center of the impeller, and we put quite a bit of flame to the spline section of the impeller, but no help...hence the question about heat between the vanes...frustrated that this should be very simple given our level of mechanical experience, but we dont want to ruin something because of ignorance of procedure or seadoo methodology...just reread above post...did you suggest use a 4 foot cheater bar?
 
4 inch extension by the looks of it. Also, you are turning it the right way? counter clockwise?

Also, I find a good harsh pull with the breaker bar helps, or slightly tightening it, then loosening it.
 
Definitely turning counterclockwise...tried the tightening then loosening move...not ext required, in fact that would make it more difficult...residting every impulse to break out the 3/4" impact :-) Read on other thread the heat needs to be directed tothe back of the cavity I which the spline tool sits...will try that later today, as I was focusing the heat on the splines themselves...am unsure where the threads are in relation to the splines...second time around will be much faster once the mysteries are exposed...thanks for help, guys...
 
Just tried more heat and more torque...this thing is freakin tight...I'm literally afraid the bolt is going to break...looking for someone who has had experience with crazy tight impeller bolt assembly...
 
Just tried more heat and more torque...this thing is freakin tight...I'm literally afraid the bolt is going to break...looking for someone who has had experience with crazy tight impeller bolt assembly...

subscribed. only because I have a pump that was on my workbench for 3 nights about a month ago, had it in the vice, impeller tool and 4' bar, tried heat, tried a friggen hammer, almost busted the vice out of the mounting bolts, dam near got a hernia. After some creative use of the english language, I gave up and tossed the friggen thing back in the attic. its a pump off a broken ski, i was just trying to steal the impeller out of it so I decided it wasn't worth the aggravation.

so, if you figure it out, I wanna know how lol
 
I understand about breaking it... but look at it this way.... it's no good right now... right? So... long bar, and lay into it.

Over the years... I've had a bunch of stubborn impellers, and flywheels. You just need to lay into it. Big vice... long breaker bar. Don't hammer on it... that can case damage.


If you see rust... then spray PB blaster into the splines of the impeller, and let it soak down into the threads of the shaft.
 
I'll shoot some 'Blaster in there and let it sit for a couple hours, then more heat, and finally hit it with a big cheater...I will 'endeavor to persevere' :-)

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Nearly broke my 4 1/2" vise putting torque to this darn thing...next stop is having a friend of mine machine a shaft locking tool like is shown in the manual so pressure will be spread out over several inches across the jaws instead of just in 3/4" of the bolt head itself...updates will follow.
 
Well the d@mn impeller shaft/bolt broke, which is what I was afraid of...now I have to figure a way to get broken off bolt out of impeller...new shaft = $100...have drilled a hole thru bolt to use ez-out...will use more heat and then shoot some brake cleaner on bolt to chill it...hope that will break bond of thread...freakin nightmare...any suggestions??
 
Yea, contact Minnetonka for a good used pump housing part.

I'm jk, haha but seriously it might be worth it
 
I just changed one today on the same ski in 10 minutes without removing the impellar. Put the pump in the freezer for an hour then take a long screwdriver and hammer and tap it out from the back working your way around it. The wear ring that is.
 
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