1996 Seadoo xp surges/bogs at full throttle

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

Brholwer

New Member
Had the carbs rebuilt last year ran perfect first time out full throttle and everything now runs fine until you pass the 45 MPH point then it starts to surge and bog it will go full throttle then back down then back up then back down etc. Any Idea on what is wrong? and is there a fix that i can do on my own?
 
Did you change out the gray fuel lines? That might be your problem and you may need to clean out your carb filters again.
 
thanks guys, no i have not replaced the gray fuel lines yet, what would be wrong with them. ill do my best to work on it but your gonna have to really explain what things are because im new to fixing my seadoo and don't know much about them just walk me through it, i got sick of paying to get it repaired all the time then it not working. Thanks for the responses to my question, i really appreciate it!!!
 
Well they like to make a green sticky slime that goes through the carbs and lines. Mine was nasty. So I would replace those and check the filters in your carbs.
 
After you repalce the fuel lines clean/replace the selector valve then move on to the internal filters. While you are at it replace the diaphrams and needle/seat on the carbs. Use the existing spring to keep your pop off presure the same.
 
Same thing mine was doing, surge and bog. I repaced all the fuel lines, replaced the fuel selector petcock and cleaned the on-board filter. After doing that itt ran better but still surged. I removed the carbs and opened the fuel pump side of the carb to access internal fuel filters. They were plugged with blue/ green goo. I cleaned filters with carb cleaner. I reassembled everything and the ski ran great!!! What I didnt realize was driving with the surge and bog was running my engine lean. The 2nd day I took it out I lost compression in both cylinders. Pistons look like they were welded to the rings.
Dont make the same mistake I made and keep riding the ski trying to blow it out, you are doing alot of damage and the surge and bog is the ski's way of telling you something is wrong.
 
thanks guys, what would be the first thing to try and see if it makes a difference. And how much do the gray fuel lines and other stuff to fix it usually cost. Thanks for all the responses and remember i dont know much about how to do this you will just have to tell me how to do it. thanks guys.
 
just remember guys i dont have much experience in fixing stuff but i want to know how to make this thing run good
 
Neither did I. I just asked questions on this site and I got replies. If you dont understand something ask. You'll feel great after saving all that money!!!
 
while wide open, pull the choke cable all the way, if it bogs worse than it did before then you know you're not running lean. if it runs better with the choked pulled then you may have a lean condition.
 
how many hoses are there? and how long does it take and could you do it while the seadoo is still on the lift?
 
You just need to be able to get in the ski. Im sure you could do it on the lift but it may be more work. there arent that many hoses about 21 ft will do it.
 
it's pretty easy. just take your time. get about 20 feet of 1/4" standard black fuel hose from auto parts store and a box of stainless steel hose clamps. some guys say to just use zip ties. make sure you replace them one at a time so you don't get confused. you dont need to replace the couple that are vent lines. i did my first ski 2 years ago, same symtoms as yours. took a while because the whole engine was new to me. i did my 2nd ski last week, took about an hour or so to do most of the lines. the real short ones under the air intake and the long one that disappears under the front of the engine i will change when i take the carbs off to clean this week. those ones are easy to change once you got things disassembled to clean the carbs. i also found it to be a little easier to drop the fuel selector valve out of the hull to get easier access to that end of the hoses. (pop the rubber cap out of the center, take the screw out, lift out the knob, remove the hex nut and the valve drops down). make sure your selector valve isn't clogged up while you got it out. you do have to be a bit of a contortionist, or have long arms (which i dont) to work on these things. half the time you can't see what you are working on so you learn to do it by feel.

you are going to want to clean the carb filters after the hoses are replaced.

after that is done look for the thread that describes how to clean your RAVE valves.
 
do you guys think its most likely the fuel lines, and how hard is it to replace them?

Replacing the fuel lines will do you no good unless you clean the remaining fuel system. Because of the existing fuel lines, you have a clogged fuel system. Replacing the fuel lines will not unclog the rest of your fuel delivery system.

Replacing the fuel lines will help prevent future problems.

It is very important to do the complete job. I can't tell you how many times I have read on this and other forums about people just doing half the job and shorty after having still having problems, or having even bigger problems.

Don't forget to replace the fuel/pulse lines between the carbs and to the engine block.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
what is the fuel delivery system and where is it how would i fix it? if i unclogged it and replaced the fuel lines would it fix the problem?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top