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1996 Seadoo xp surges/bogs at full throttle
- Thread starter Brholwer
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bigJake
Well-Known Member
kind of hard to screw up as long as you only take off one hose at a time. take off a hose, taking note of how it was routed - not much to that, they are just tied up with some zip ties. cut a new hose the same length as the one you took off. reconnect and tighten the clamps. you're getting yourself too stressed out over this.
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
If I remember correctly there are 8 including the line between the carbs and the pluse line. No big deal...just use your diagram in the manual and replace one at a time.
Clean/replace the fuel selector valve (on, off, reserve) as you go.
Clean the fuel filter, then save the carbs for last. You will be fine, just take your time going one step at a time.
Brholwer
New Member
i pulled out the front storage box and found the grey lines but i don't know where they go. I just rode my other my other seadoo the 96 spx that runs perfect, has much more power then the xp right now, so the xp is defiantly lacking power. but i need help on how to replace the fuel lines!!!!!!!
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Doug212
New Member
I'm not an expert, however I was having the same problem with grey fuel lines. I spent a total of $30-$35 on fuel lines and hose clamps. I used the black automotive fuel lines. The best thing I found to do was replace 1 line at a time. It might take a little longer but you know everything will go where it is suppose to. After you replace the fuel lines I would highly recommend cleaning the internal fuel filters in the carbs.
Best thing is not to over-think the job at hand.
Best thing is not to over-think the job at hand.
I just did my XP yesterday and it was pretty easy to do. I bought a roll or regular 1/4" fuel hose (25') from Autozone and some stainless steel hose clamps and some zipties.
I removed one gray hose, measured the length and cut the same length from the reel of new hose and reinstalled it. I used hose clamps on the tank connections and filter connections but used two zip ties on the fuel selector and at the carbs due to limited space for hose clamps.
Took me about 2 hours.
I had already removed the carbs (about 1 hour) and stripped them down on the bench enough to clean them. I was lucky that the gaskets and diaphragms were all OK but if I had the $$ I would have replaced them. There was a small amount of crap in the carbs but the main culprit was the internal filter - I would guess that if I had cleaned the filter and the pipes then it would have been enough but as I had them on the bench I decided to strip and clean further.
Anyone who still has gray fuel lines needs to change them asap - though I guess most have been done by now.
I removed one gray hose, measured the length and cut the same length from the reel of new hose and reinstalled it. I used hose clamps on the tank connections and filter connections but used two zip ties on the fuel selector and at the carbs due to limited space for hose clamps.
Took me about 2 hours.
I had already removed the carbs (about 1 hour) and stripped them down on the bench enough to clean them. I was lucky that the gaskets and diaphragms were all OK but if I had the $$ I would have replaced them. There was a small amount of crap in the carbs but the main culprit was the internal filter - I would guess that if I had cleaned the filter and the pipes then it would have been enough but as I had them on the bench I decided to strip and clean further.
Anyone who still has gray fuel lines needs to change them asap - though I guess most have been done by now.
IDoSeaDoo
Well-Known Member
Make sure you don't end up with any loose hose clamps. I had a problem where a hose clamp on my fuel selector valve was maxed out and still not tight (it was a weird style of clamp), and it was allowing air to get into the fuel line. This caused hard starting, surging, and not really being able to achieve full RMP. Tightened it down and half the problems went away, it still starts hard...
Shredderdog
New Member
I cant for the life of me figure out how to get access to the four nuts securing the carbs to replace them on my 93 GTX....Any suggestions? My Seloc manual does not explain it well.
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
JMO
I remove the carbs and intake together before removing the carbs. Works for me! Just make sure your rotary valve doesn't come off.
slipot
New Member
Have a 94,95,96. Got really good at replacing fuel lines, selector, filters, etc. All I can say is YES it is easy if you take your time. I am no mechanic, but one line at a time. Don't forget the filter, I always replace mine and yes the carbs are the key in getting the small screen filters cleaned up. They run like a champ now and have for two years. Good luck!
slipot
New Member
Would be good to start your own thread. First of look at the fuel lines if they are grey, replace them. Second, when was the last time you cleaned your carb filters they could be getting gummed up or your high speed needle and seat within the carb. Did you notice when it started? What year, model, etc?
jhjesse
Well-Known Member
Start with something simple. Remove the cable ties on the spark plug boots and unscrew the plug boots. Clip the wires back about 1/4" and re install the plug boots and check.
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