1996 GTX - Rectifier failures

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Lothsahn

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My stock rectifier was failed, so I replaced it last August. It just failed again after about 20 hours of operation. I used this part: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RPN1NFQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It looks identical to OEM, but the parts inside might be different.

My primary goal is a reliable ski, not price. I just want it to work when I take it out on the water. What would you recommend?

Should I just replace the rectifier again, this time with OEM? Do I possibly have an issue like a bad coil frying the rectifier? Anything else I should look into?
 
I haven’t seen a particular thing cause them to go bad, they just seem to go sometimes.

The cheap aftermarket ones are hit or miss so I would try another one first. If a second one goes OSD sells some heavier duty ones.
 
By heavier duty one, do you mean this?

OSD SeaDoo Rectifier Assy (REPL 278000443)​


Would that actually be better than OEM?

If you think the $45 one won't fail, I'll buy it. The $20 extra would be worth not having it randomly fail on me again.

Do the OEM ones last? I have a local shop that carries them.
 
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I have been using the Amazon ones so I can’t say for sure.
I know OSD used to sell a kit that upgraded to the big ones from the 4-stroke skis.
 
My primary goal is a reliable ski, not price. I just want it to work when I take it out on the water. What would you recommend?

Should I just replace the rectifier again, this time with OEM? Do I possibly have an issue like a bad coil frying the rectifier? Anything else I should look into?
I had 18 years of trouble-free rectifier operation....then I charged the battery IN the craft without disconnecting the battery. Poof. 12V Low indication....requiring a new v/r.

Then, like an idiot who didn't catch on, I did the SAME thing to it's 'brother' (identical model) craft. Poof. Low 12v. By now I was good at changing rectifiers.

Why did I charge the batteries, you ask? Poor weather, older batteries, late deployment in the season onto the lake, and some health issues that prevented regular use. Most of the toys I had that year exhibited low battery issues due to lack of use.

I can't guarantee the the following, but it's pretty suspicious to me that 2 rectifiers in 2 eighteen year plus Seadoos worked great for all that time, then both went south in the same season after a battery charger (Battery Tender Jr.) is used.

Moral of the story? If you want to charge the battery, great....l will be lifting a battery lead before doing so in the future.
 
I've been charging the battery with a maintainer for the last 2 years. I would be surprised if it was the cause, based on the electronics of the rectifier.

Specifically, the oem rectifiers are SCR based:
SCR Voltage Regulator Circuit - Homemade Circuit Projects

The SCR rectifiers have all circuits gated by either a diode in the reverse direction or a capacitor, which does not allow DC flow. So I don't see any way that a DC charger could cause issues. My maintainer provides between 13-14.4V, well within the range provided by the rectifier itself.

The maintainer has also not caused any MPEM issues for me in the last 2 years.

Now, a faulty maintainer could do all sorts of damage if the voltage spiked...
 
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Well, good luck with that. Countless people here have fired the regulators and expensive MPEM's by charging and jumping with the battery connected.

That is why we always suggest charging without it connected.
 
@mikidymac if you say it can cause problems, then I'll stop doing it. You've been right on just about everything else so there's a possibility I don't understand something about the regulator circuit.

Is there a quick disconnect for the sea Doo battery I can buy that'll make it easier? The little square metal thing likes to slide around.
 
I don't know the exact reason either, just that it has caused numerous issues.

I don't install disconnects because the bilge in these is always wet and messy.

For the little nut on the battery terminal I use a piece of vinyl tubing under the nut so it is always held tight and pushed up to the top so the screw can grab it.
 
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