1999 XP Limited Fueling Issue

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Hi guys - I recently purchased a '99 XP Ltd with the 951 in non-running condition. I am quite familiar with 2-stroke jet skis, though this is my first BRP ski and getting to know this one has been humbling.

The first thing I did was rebuild the carbs. I did not use a genuine Mikuni kit as I normally would have liked to, but instead went with this Venom brand on Amazon. They are close price-points, has good reviews and I believe it to be a high quality kit (many of the components were even made in the US). I was in a rush to get the ski running for a family reunion, and the factory Mikuni would not arrive in time so I purchased the Venom. In addition, I also replaced all of the factory fuel lines, which of course were rotten. When pulling apart the carbs, there was green sludge throughout and I'm confident this was a major factor to the ski's non-running condition.

After these two procedures, the ski started on the trailer and ran fine out of the water. Once in the water, it idles fine, but hesitates and bogs down slightly at accel. It's not a horrible bog, and easily overcome with a little bit of throttle feathering. Once above 3000 RPM, the ski runs quite well with zero hesitation or other issues, until it reaches about 5000 RPM, when the most glaring and problematic issue starts. The ski will run along at 5000+RPM for a few seconds, and all of a sudden drastically reduce RPM and fall on its face, then it recovers and revs up again to the previous RPM, then falls off again, and so on. It happens quickly and often - the entire cycle takes about 2-3 seconds to complete before it repeats. The bizarre part is for the first minute or two of riding, it runs above 5k RPM just fine. I've been able to reach almost 7k RPM and completed a ~2 mile loop around a small lake before the hesitation above 5k RPM starts.

I've read these fuel selector switches can go bad, and thought maybe it was causing a bottleneck in the fuel supply. I temporarily bypassed it and that did not fix my issue. I've also been experimenting with the carb's high and low speed screws. I know the factory specifies 1-1/2 turns out on the lows and 0 turns on the highs, but currently have the highs at about 1/8 turns out (with lows at factory spec).

Most recently, I noticed the mag-side carb's accelerator pump isn't working. With the airbox off (and engine off), I can see fuel squirt out of the PTO-side carb nipple, but not the mag-side. The carb rebuild kit unfortunately did not come with any parts for the accelerator pump so I'm unsure of its age.

My understanding was the accelerator pump only provided extra fuel upon an increase of the throttle, but that once a consistent throttle level was reached, it no longer did anything and fuel was only supplied by the normal high and low circuits. If this understanding is correct, a bad accelerator pump could explain the bog I experience accelerating from idle, but it does not explain the ski sputtering at a consistent 5k+ RPM, recovering, and repeating this viscous cycle.

What else should I be investigating for this issue?
 
I'm fairly certain the Venom rebuild kit is not my issue. It has overwhelmingly positive reviews and the components felt on par with Genuine Keihin or Mikuni. Per the rebuild thread you posted above, I did not buy anything from SBT, WSM, Wonderosa and the Venom kit certainly was not under $40.

Any other ideas? Is my general understanding of the accelerator pump's function correct?
 
I will help you all I can but the Venom kits definitely are an issue. I am not sure how many times I can say only OEM Mikuni but I will edit the carb rebuild thread to say Venom also.

The Accelerator pump has to be squirting whenever you push the throttle or you will get a flat spot. Typically it is the brass nozzles on the carb body that get plugged where it is supposed to squirt from and not the pump itself.
 
Ok, good to know on the accelerator pump - thank you. I guess I'll first try spraying some carb cleaner through the brass nozzle on the mag-side carb to see if I can unplug it. If that doesn't fix the issue, I guess they're coming off again and getting a real Mikuni kit.

I guess if one nozzle squirts, but the other doesn't, that probably indicates the pump itself is working fine
 
Yes, they are a common line from the pump to the actual squirters that just tee off. So if one works the pump is good and one is clogged. Very common.
 
In an attempt to avoid removing the carbs again, I'm going to try shooting some carb cleaner and then compressed air into the clogged squirter. I can't get access with the carb cleaner nozzle though, so am going to attach some fuel line and squirt/blow through that. Any idea what size would be a good fit on the squirter? 1/16" or maybe even smaller?
 
Again, 69% of reviewers of the Venom kit on Amazon rated 5 stars, which is not terribly far behind that of the genuine Mikuni. I am not sitting here with 100% certainty and telling you this Venom kit is not a potential issue, but unless these reviews are completely fabricated, you cannot say aftermarket carb kits NEVER work.

I do know with 100% certainty I have an issue with my accelerator pump, so until I get that component working correctly, I'm not prepared to shitcan the Venom kit.
 
Got the mag-side accelerator pump nozzle unclogged and to no avail - symptoms are still the same. Do these fuel pickups ever get clogged? I can't understand why for the first 30 seconds of riding it goes flat out, then falls on its face over 5k RPM. If the carb was bad, wouldn't it behave this way immediately? My theory is the ski is using up all the fuel in the line, then once that fuel is gone, it's getting starved. I temporarily bypassed the selector switch and know that is not the issue. At this point, it seems to have to be either the carbs themselves or something upstream of the selector switch.
 
I'm beginning to think it's an electrical issue and not fueling at all. I removed the spade connectors on the white wires from the coils and took a resistance reading. It's reading 0.7-0.9 ohm at those two spades. According to the shop manual, the reading here should be 0.34-0.62 ohm, but I'm not exactly clear if each spade should be tested independently or the two together. Am I testing these correctly to put a multimeter lead on each spade?
 

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LOL, VENOM carb kits!:):):)

You already know the problem and we know the problem.

The Seadoo Carb Rebuild Threa
Hi guys - I recently purchased a '99 XP Ltd with the 951 in non-running condition. I am quite familiar with 2-stroke jet skis, though this is my first BRP ski and getting to know this one has been humbling.

The first thing I did was rebuild the carbs. I did not use a genuine Mikuni kit as I normally would have liked to, but instead went with this Venom brand on Amazon. They are close price-points, has good reviews and I believe it to be a high quality kit (many of the components were even made in the US). I was in a rush to get the ski running for a family reunion, and the factory Mikuni would not arrive in time so I purchased the Venom. In addition, I also replaced all of the factory fuel lines, which of course were rotten. When pulling apart the carbs, there was green sludge throughout and I'm confident this was a major factor to the ski's non-running condition.

After these two procedures, the ski started on the trailer and ran fine out of the water. Once in the water, it idles fine, but hesitates and bogs down slightly at accel. It's not a horrible bog, and easily overcome with a little bit of throttle feathering. Once above 3000 RPM, the ski runs quite well with zero hesitation or other issues, until it reaches about 5000 RPM, when the most glaring and problematic issue starts. The ski will run along at 5000+RPM for a few seconds, and all of a sudden drastically reduce RPM and fall on its face, then it recovers and revs up again to the previous RPM, then falls off again, and so on. It happens quickly and often - the entire cycle takes about 2-3 seconds to complete before it repeats. The bizarre part is for the first minute or two of riding, it runs above 5k RPM just fine. I've been able to reach almost 7k RPM and completed a ~2 mile loop around a small lake before the hesitation above 5k RPM starts.

I've read these fuel selector switches can go bad, and thought maybe it was causing a bottleneck in the fuel supply. I temporarily bypassed it and that did not fix my issue. I've also been experimenting with the carb's high and low speed screws. I know the factory specifies 1-1/2 turns out on the lows and 0 turns on the highs, but currently have the highs at about 1/8 turns out (with lows at factory spec).

Most recently, I noticed the mag-side carb's accelerator pump isn't working. With the airbox off (and engine off), I can see fuel squirt out of the PTO-side carb nipple, but not the mag-side. The carb rebuild kit unfortunately did not come with any parts for the accelerator pump so I'm unsure of its age.

My understanding was the accelerator pump only provided extra fuel upon an increase of the throttle, but that once a consistent throttle level was reached, it no longer did anything and fuel was only supplied by the normal high and low circuits. If this understanding is correct, a bad accelerator pump could explain the bog I experience accelerating from idle, but it does not explain the ski sputtering at a consistent 5k+ RPM, recovering, and repeating this viscous cycle.

What else should I be investigating for this issue?
Just went through the same thing on newly purchased 99 XP. It’s the fuel pumps. Need to be rebuilt. I am talking with a race mechanic that somehow deletes the pumps to avoid future issues. He is in CA. Contact me if interested in that information. I just sent him my carbs.
 
Just went through the same thing on newly purchased 99 XP. It’s the fuel pumps. Need to be rebuilt. I am talking with a race mechanic that somehow deletes the pumps to avoid future issues. He is in CA. Contact me if interested in that information. I just sent him my carbs.
Thanks for the reply. I didn't realize the factory fuel pump was problematic, but frankly I don't want to sink any more money into it than I need to and desire to keep it stock. Made a new discovery just now which I'll post below
 
It would appear I have an electrical issue. I just followed the procedure in the shop manual for testing the secondary winding. I removed the spark plug caps and cut off 1/4" on each end. Put my multimeter at 2k ohm setting and am not getting any resistance on the wire ends. Could it be as simple as new spark plug wires? My resistance at the coils seem to be in spec or very close to.

I've also used an inline spark tester. While both wires are creating spark, they both seem faint.

As a side note, I am not getting any beep when I plug in the DESS key. I do hear the bilge kick on momentarily each time (for 1-2 seconds). Could that be related, or a separate gremlin?
 

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Just went through the same thing on newly purchased 99 XP. It’s the fuel pumps. Need to be rebuilt. I am talking with a race mechanic that somehow deletes the pumps to avoid future issues. He is in CA. Contact me if interested in that information. I just sent him my carbs.
You can delete the accelerator pumps and rejet but you can not remove the fuel pumps.
 
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Here's a video of my gremlin. This is after 3-4 mins of trouble-free operation where I can hit all RPM levels without issue. What you're seeing is consistent throttle at roughly 3/4 to full. Anything above 5000 RPM, and it falls off, revs up, falls off, revs up...

I no longer believe it's an electrical issue and am back to thinking fueling. I think my next move is to rebuild the fuel pump with a genuine Mikuni kit and hope the rest of the Venom kit works out. It appears I can easily remove the fuel pump without removing the entire carb assembly, which from where I stand is a welcomed next step since I cannot stand removing these carbs.

What do you guys think?

Don't mind the missing fuel gauge that fell through the dash the other day. Not like it worked anyway :rolleyes:
 
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What do we think?
Same as before, only OEM Mikuni parts, not Venom.
But what do we know..........
OK - I've ordered a genuine Mikuni fuel pump kit from OSD marine. Hopefully this does the trick, but if not, the entire carb assembly is coming out for another rebuild with the proper components.
 
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I hope that isn't necessary, but I will do so if the fuel pump alone doesn't fix the issue. Given how it runs well for a couple mins before the issue starts, I'm inclined to think fuel delivery within the carbs themselves is fine, and it's the pump that is the problem. The cost of the new Mikuni rebuild kit is a bummer, but what's an even bigger bummer is removing and reinstalling those damn things. WTF was BRP thinking!
 
If you want to do some trial and error while waiting for your rebuild kits to arrive, then you could try...

1) Run with the gas cap loose to see if your air inlet check valve is stuck which could affect fuel flow
2) Install a clear polyurethane fuel hose in line with the fuel supply line and check for bubbles
3) Install a clear polyurethane fuel hose in line with the fuel return to check for bubbles
4) Get a pressure tester and learn how to pressure test the fuel system. The instructions are in the manual.
5) Put in brand new spark plugs.
6) Do a compression test

But, don't run the ski at high RPM when its malfunctioning. You can burn the motor up quick, like only one high speed run.

When you do rebuild the carbs, compare the aftermarket parts to the genuine parts. You will see small differences.
 
If you want to do some trial and error while waiting for your rebuild kits to arrive, then you could try...

1) Run with the gas cap loose to see if your air inlet check valve is stuck which could affect fuel flow
2) Install a clear polyurethane fuel hose in line with the fuel supply line and check for bubbles
3) Install a clear polyurethane fuel hose in line with the fuel return to check for bubbles
4) Get a pressure tester and learn how to pressure test the fuel system. The instructions are in the manual.
5) Put in brand new spark plugs.
6) Do a compression test

But, don't run the ski at high RPM when its malfunctioning. You can burn the motor up quick, like only one high speed run.

When you do rebuild the carbs, compare the aftermarket parts to the genuine parts. You will see small differences.
This is very helpful and some things I would not have thought to check. Thank you!

I installed a new pair of BR8ES over the weekend and that did not change anything. Compression is currently at 118 PSI in the mag-side cylinder and 115 PSI in the PTO cylinder. I'm at about 1,600 ft elevation so while not perfect, those numbers seem serviceable.

My fuel return line is clear and I can say with certainty there are bubbles in it. There is a fairly large one right after the outlet at the fuel pump. My 5/16" supply line is black so I cannot tell about bubbles in that one without your aforementioned clear polyurethane hose. Tomorrow, I will attempt to run with the gas cap loose.

What would bubbles in the return line mean? I swear I've seen skis with that before so I didn't think anything of it on the XP.
 

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Bubbles can mean a leak on the suction side of the fuel system. It could be in the tank pick up, the hose connections, fuel selector, fuel strainer, or fuel pump gaskets. A single bubble probably wont matter but a stream of bubbles means air is getting in.

The hoses can harden over time and fail to seal against the nipples.

You may also want to check the hose connections on your pulse line that powers the fuel pump.

Even if it isnt the problem, it would be good to check out the fuel system anyway, so you know the system is tight.
 
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