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RESTO 1995 XP800 Resto Project: Sugar and Spice

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wile you have the vts out I would check the strength of the magnet on the top or the slider poor magnet will give you a bouncy gauge reading. on my 95 the magnet was corroded right off so some jbl and a new stronger magnet and it works great. its similar to the gas float problem. looks good love seeing some giving up some love to a deserving x4
 
Dan I have OEM paint I'm hoarding and I owe you one. PM me that address. It is the white for that engine.
 
Got me. I just remember my dad telling me that you can use toothpaste for polishing and you can use peanut butter to bring up the shine on plastics or something like that. He's got 75 years of tricks up his sleeves, something gotta work.

I love old-guy tips as much as I love old boats and skis! This tip reminds me of the old-guy baby oil on vinyl seatcovers tip. It's amazing how quickly the mineral oil disappears from the seatcovers though, which is fine I guess, doesn't seem to hurt anything and the oil can't dry/remove the vinyl's oils? I have to wonder if our modern seatcovers aren't sprayed with a polymer coating that helps them last longer?

Like this one, maybe:
http://www.wipenew.com/
How vinyl is made:
http://www.whatisvinyl.com/manufacturing.html
 
A little more clean up. Also have almost all the rub rail wiped down and smooth. The bead blaster is going to get a work out tomorrow.


Front E-Box is minty fresh and is sporting the correct 95 MPEM, it was inspected just a few days after the hull.


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Here is the original style water control valve and was in amazing internal shape, the exterior leaves much to be desired. Pretty sure I'm going to use this one after a rehab. You actually have to remove the fitting that connects it to the water box so you can dismantle it.


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That WR is quite the contraption compared to the others. Doesn't look like it was functional the last time it was used, a little bead blast, some filler and paint and like new again.

BTW I had my dealer on the phone today ordering some parts and thought I would ask if he had any 95 xp 800 decals around, they just moved there dealership and thought maybe they ran into some old inventory that was stuffed in the attic when they moved.........he laughed.
 
That WR is quite the contraption compared to the others. Doesn't look like it was functional the last time it was used, a little bead blast, some filler and paint and like new again.

BTW I had my dealer on the phone today ordering some parts and thought I would ask if he had any 95 xp 800 decals around, they just moved there dealership and thought maybe they ran into some old inventory that was stuffed in the attic when they moved.........he laughed.

Oddly, if the rubber bellow wasn't rock hard the pin moved so smooth and the ports all worked correctly it probably would have worked. It's a pretty trick set-up, but so not cost effective to manufacture.

Thanks for asking about the decals. Someones got some NOS decals out there.
 
On the "rubber boots" I was referring to the green things under that clear glue inside the VTS. Those seal things they use on all the connectors.


Also...just to point out another 95 thing, the part number on the CDI in the 95 ends in 810, 96 is a 811.
 
Little update:

Did some bead blasting today which turned up nothing but crap parts. Head-Junk, Head cover-Junk, WCV-questionable, Flame arrestor housing-Mint, Temp sensor-Mint(if it works, but it looks nice!) Jugs-waiting to have the broken bolts drilled out. I love galvanic corrosion so much, it's like we were made for each other. I was going to cut the welch plugs off the head pipe and make new ones to get welded on but low and behold a previous repair looked like someone let a 3 year old loose with a right angle grinder. There are dice marks all over and they ground the casting finish off around the bungs and it looks like crap so I'll be taking that to the scrap yard for scrap value, along with some copper to make me feel like I got a decent penny for the pipe. I thought I had an extra head pipe but it looks like I have about 3 mint 720 complete pipes and 2 or 3 787 bottoms. I'll post some more pics later of some other stuff.....

Head cover seal track is broke off in 3 places, darn shame the domes were mint. The corrosion was so bad between the o-ring that it puckered the thin walls right out


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Head was manufactured January of 1995

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Head cover water outlet rotted. Head cover was manufactured in December of 1994


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Blasted the water control valve and chased the threads on the lower mount. The upper half is the questionable part. Even bead blasted the black gasket


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And the best piece of the day. Not sure if it's original to the ski or not the manufacture date is May 4, 1993. It had the correct bracket on it and it looked like the loctite matched up to the carb flanges Perhaps BRP made a ton of them and didn't use them fast enough, LOL



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Man how could I forget the jugs!!!!!!!!!!!

A few snapped bolts, 2 on the exhaust mani, 5 on one cylinder and 3 on another. And someone was using it as a drug runner. Oh, that's more oxidation.


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Wow those are Fl caliber nasty. Are you gonna bring those jugs back?

Yes, yes I am--I have to. Remember--I will save what I can. The bores are super nice and I can still see all the hatch marks. I honestly can't wait to hook this up and get the hours off it. There wasn't much on the tops of the pistons and the cylinders look low hour. All that crap on the cylinder walls is this sticky oil and when I drained the RV cavity it was gelatinous so someone mixed the wrong oil but I did a quick wipe and it came off and the walls look real good. Just gotta measure them up.
 
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Hopefully my FIL is bored tomorrow and puts these in the mill and drills out the broken hardware so I can bead blast these water jackets. I've been prepping him for a week or two now that I'm going to keep him busy.
 
I seriously enjoy your build threads. The skill of your work, attention to detail, and the perfection/quality of your builds inspires me! I think we all really needed this thread to help us finish out winter


Long live the 2 stroke Seadoo!
 
awe man...that blows bud! I was hoping to see you put an all original 95 but your clearly going to have to give up on all that.

I do have a complete 95 water regulator cheap that needs a diaphragm of course.
 
awe man...that blows bud! I was hoping to see you put an all original 95 but your clearly going to have to give up on all that.

I do have a complete 95 water regulator cheap that needs a diaphragm of course.


I have been looking over all my pics of the head (head is at the machine shop) and I'm taking it to the welders tomorrow to see if he can weld those 3 spots then I'll machine the o-ring groove back in. I have to figure out how SBT replaces the water nipples on their head covers, the one SBT I put in that guys Challenger had one replaced and they glued one in. There might just be enough meat for us to machine a new nipple and either thread the head but make it so zero threads show so it will be invisible to the eye or I might just have to glue it in with some body panel adhesive. Any chance you have a 95 head laying in you bins?
 
I'm not trying to be rude about the situation, but Dan I think you might literally be the only one in the world who would care enough about the stamped numbers on the head, even if you were trying to resell it. They're just aren't collectors on these skis who would care about that, maybe I'm wrong tho. Lol. I can understand the water regulator and the short hose on the waterbox and the engine and the intake ports, but there is a fine line between dedication and craziness :) I mean all the heads are the same...just my perspective and I know you want a brand new total OEM ski like it rolled out in 95
 
I seriously enjoy your build threads. The skill of your work, attention to detail, and the perfection/quality of your builds inspires me! I think we all really needed this thread to help us finish out winter


Long live the 2 stroke Seadoo!

Thanks man that means a bunch. I really like to dissect something and figure it out from top to bottom. Putting it here just helps me remember the little details.I also want other guys down the road to have some small amount of info on these skis as there isn't much documented on them.
 
I agree with CR...I liked the concept of a all 95 parts 95...but seriously at this point I think you need to just keep it as 95 as you can, and keep everything you can see 95...but that head. F it. Put a 96 in.
 
I'm not trying to be rude about the situation, but Dan I think you might literally be the only one in the world who would care enough about the stamped numbers on the head, even if you were trying to resell it. They're just aren't collectors on these skis who would care about that, maybe I'm wrong tho. Lol. I can understand the water regulator and the short hose on the waterbox and the engine and the intake ports, but there is a fine line between dedication and craziness :) I mean all the heads are the same...just my perspective and I know you want a brand new total OEM ski like it rolled out in 95

Ha I know I'm new here, and I don't know a lot of y'all personally, but your saying this to a guy who I watched paint the edges of his new gaskets so that they would look like the were original from the factory painted motor.... So ya, lol I could see how much those stamped numbers can mean lol.... I just wish I had half of that determination to make it original, keep up the awesome work!!!


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Ha I know I'm new here, and I don't know a lot of y'all personally, but your saying this to a guy who I watched paint the edges of his new gaskets so that they would look like the were original from the factory painted motor.... So ya, lol I could see how much those stamped numbers can mean lol.... I just wish I had half of that determination to make it original, keep up the awesome work!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hahah this is true! I forgot about that
 
I'm not trying to be rude about the situation, but Dan I think you might literally be the only one in the world who would care enough about the stamped numbers on the head, even if you were trying to resell it. They're just aren't collectors on these skis who would care about that, maybe I'm wrong tho. Lol. I can understand the water regulator and the short hose on the waterbox and the engine and the intake ports, but there is a fine line between dedication and craziness :) I mean all the heads are the same...just my perspective and I know you want a brand new total OEM ski like it rolled out in 95

I agree with CR...I liked the concept of a all 95 parts 95...but seriously at this point I think you need to just keep it as 95 as you can, and keep everything you can see 95...but that head. F it. Put a 96 in.


Trust me guys, I don't take any comments the wrong way so it's fine, I know I'm eccentric and I'm fine with it. This is what pushes me, I just won't give up easily. Restoring things takes an extreme amount of perseverance, I like to hunt for stuff. Yes, numbers might mean nothing to the next guy and I will be making concessions on this build. Most guys don't have the resources I have, I can probably get this welded for a 6 pack, the water outlet--free at my FIL machine shop. My investment--time. I don't like to throw money at problems if I don't have to. This stuff is fun for me, just be glad I didn't document my 58 Bug restoration like I do these skis, you would have put me in an insane assylum--I was searching for sheet metal that was stamped correctly, the interwebs were nothing like they are today trust me. Guys restoring cars search for correct date stamps on parts, this is where the date coding comes from on my end.
 
Here's the trim comparison. The one I wiped with the lacquer thinner the other is sun baked. I still need to polish up the rub rail but you can see the major difference. The bottom one is the sun baked rub rail.



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Another difference I noted on the 95 XP's was the carb has the old style linkage and the microfiche confirmed it.




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