With the help of this forum, I rebuilt the carbs (all OSD parts) on my 1994 & 1995 GTXs 2 yrs ago, and swapped all the gas lines out at that time; however, in a haste to get on the lake before the summer was over, I didn't swap out the fuel selectors (me = idiot). They both screamed down the lake for the last two summers, but this year they started acting as if they were running out of gas at WOT. I tried troubleshooting using the choke and gas cap diagnostic techniques, but the result was the same...full throttle to idle each time (note: the engine never died, just powered down to idle and would take off again). I never even had a chance to check the plugs or tune them per the instructions in the carb adjustments sticky. These units maybe have 3 hours on them since the last carb rebuild, and both have 150-155 psi compression across all cylinders. I have used ethanol containing fuel, but I always run Marine Stabil and each year I winterized them by draining the gas tanks and running the carbs dry.
Tonight I pulled the carb off the 1995 GTX and inspected it. I found faint traces of the varnish on some of the surfaces, but the internal filters were fairly white and clear of debris. I absolutely dread removing the carb on the 1994 GTX, so I haven't confirmed its current status; however, it was behaving the exact same way, so I expect it will be similar. To be safe, I got new Mikuni kits and will be rebuilding them and re-setting the pop-off. I have also ordered new selector switches to replace the original ones that were contaminated by the gray factory fuel lines. I have two questions that I need guidance on:
Rich
Tonight I pulled the carb off the 1995 GTX and inspected it. I found faint traces of the varnish on some of the surfaces, but the internal filters were fairly white and clear of debris. I absolutely dread removing the carb on the 1994 GTX, so I haven't confirmed its current status; however, it was behaving the exact same way, so I expect it will be similar. To be safe, I got new Mikuni kits and will be rebuilding them and re-setting the pop-off. I have also ordered new selector switches to replace the original ones that were contaminated by the gray factory fuel lines. I have two questions that I need guidance on:
- When replacing the selector switches, do I need to replace the gas lines again?
- If so, how much should be replaced (i.e. just downstream of the selector, or everything?)
- Once I complete the rebuild can I run an additional in line fuel filter, or does this cause more problems than it hopes to solve?
Rich
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